Tom Cancelleri Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 Usually I just wipe them down with food grade mineral oil. However I've been thinking about doing the double boiler, warm the mineral oil and melt beeswax into it and stir it up together and then use that as the finish. It will add a bit more durability and water resistance. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 I've only made one, but used Watco Butcher Block. It's more of a wiping varnish with a (poly?) resin, unlike the other butcher block oils out there (which I understand are just mineral spirits) First coat goes on like Danish Oil (wipe on wipe off). Second coat goes on like arm-r-seal. Really builds up thick. Nice semi-gloss finish. Been holding up so far, knife marks but nothing unexpected. Cleans up very nice with soap and water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 General Finishes Salad Bowl Finish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgreenb Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 +1 on salad bowl finish. I used Marc's method; it works great and requires zero maintenance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 I use the Watco Butcher block on a new board then Maintain with mineral oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weithman5 Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 I've only made one, but used Watco Butcher Block. It's more of a wiping varnish with a (poly?) resin, unlike the other butcher block oils out there (which I understand are just mineral spirits) First coat goes on like Danish Oil (wipe on wipe off). Second coat goes on like arm-r-seal. Really builds up thick. Nice semi-gloss finish. Been holding up so far, knife marks but nothing unexpected. Cleans up very nice with soap and water. just don't pass out and land on that finish support. that actually is pretty cool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted December 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 I've only made one, but used Watco Butcher Block. It's more of a wiping varnish with a (poly?) resin, unlike the other butcher block oils out there (which I understand are just mineral spirits) First coat goes on like Danish Oil (wipe on wipe off). Second coat goes on like arm-r-seal. Really builds up thick. Nice semi-gloss finish. Been holding up so far, knife marks but nothing unexpected. Cleans up very nice with soap and water. The real question is, what kind of beer is in that glass? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 The real question is, what kind of beer is in that glass? Warsteiner from the keg. And yes, the beverages only show up in the shop when the motors stop running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted December 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 Vinny, Don't you worry about all the nails in the back of your project creating little dents in the wood? The steel of the nail is harder than the wood. Why not use plastic or painters pyramids? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcarswell Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 General finishes salad bowl oil or usually I use Howard Butcher block conditioner. I've used costco mineral oil in the past but I like the workability and sheen more of the Howard conditioner . I was wondering about the same thing cancel with the nails. I've had painters pyramids leave tracks (albeit tiny) in hardwood I would think nail ends would do worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skiback46 Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 I use walnut oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 Vinny, Don't you worry about all the nails in the back of your project creating little dents in the wood? The steel of the nail is harder than the wood. Why not use plastic or painters pyramids? Same reason you can sleep on a bed of nails I suppose. It's a mass and surface area issue. Plus, they're not pointy. My work tends to slide around, even if just a little bit, on the pyramids leaving streaks. Not a big fan. Mostly, I use these for parts that don't have a lot of mass. There's just not enough gravity force to create dents. No issues on pine either. It's soft, but just not heavy enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarrylR Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 Plain old mineral oil from the pharmacy... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 Wood Man needs to slow down on the beer...based on all the finish spilled over the nail-board. Must of been 2 cutting boards resting on the nails -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 Vinny, Don't you worry about all the nails in the back of your project creating little dents in the wood? The steel of the nail is harder than the wood. Why not use plastic or painters pyramids? Not a worry...I use nail-boards all the time. The sharper the nails the better, nearly impossible to fine the little "prick" in the finish. My go to, are small wood blocks with a single sharp wood screw through the center. You can position them anywhere on the piece. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 The sharper the nails the better, nearly impossible to find the little "prick" in the finish. -Ace- Not impossible, if you look close you can see my reflection in the gloss. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 Not impossible, if you look close you can see my reflection in the gloss. Now thats funny!!!!!!!!! -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 mineral oil is all i use for cutting boards. works great, looks great, is easy to apply, food safe, and is easy to refinish. win x 5! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Bailey Posted December 4, 2014 Report Share Posted December 4, 2014 I'd probably only use mineral oil on my own boards because you have to maintain it pretty regularly, and if I make a board for a gift I really don't want to give too much 'work' along with it. salad bowl finish is great and doesn't build a film if you apply it properly, and it needs very little maintenance. mineral oil is really nice though, and IMO the best way to apply it is to soak the board in a vat of mineral oil for a day or so then take it out, wipe it down until you've removed all the excess, and let it cure for a few days. after that, even if you use the board a lot the only real maintenance you need to do is a quick rub down with more oil maybe monthly or so. perhaps a light sanding and then oil every few months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted December 7, 2014 Report Share Posted December 7, 2014 Salad bowl finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snibley Posted December 11, 2014 Report Share Posted December 11, 2014 I've only made one, but used Watco Butcher Block. It's more of a wiping varnish with a (poly?) resin, unlike the other butcher block oils out there (which I understand are just mineral spirits) First coat goes on like Danish Oil (wipe on wipe off). Second coat goes on like arm-r-seal. Really builds up thick. Nice semi-gloss finish. Been holding up so far, knife marks but nothing unexpected. Cleans up very nice with soap and water. did you sand in between coats? I also have read the smell lasts a pretty long time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted December 11, 2014 Report Share Posted December 11, 2014 Light scuff only - 320g No smell at all (and I have really good smell...seriously) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weithman5 Posted December 11, 2014 Report Share Posted December 11, 2014 Light scuff only - 320g No smell at all (and I have really good smell...seriously) not talking about your cologne or after shave I hope Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted December 11, 2014 Report Share Posted December 11, 2014 All pheromones, baby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HunterL Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 I'd probably only use mineral oil on my own boards because you have to maintain it pretty regularly, and if I make a board for a gift I really don't want to give too much 'work' along with it. salad bowl finish is great and doesn't build a film if you apply it properly, and it needs very little maintenance. mineral oil is really nice though, and IMO the best way to apply it is to soak the board in a vat of mineral oil for a day or so then take it out, wipe it down until you've removed all the excess, and let it cure for a few days. after that, even if you use the board a lot the only real maintenance you need to do is a quick rub down with more oil maybe monthly or so. perhaps a light sanding and then oil every few months. Can you (or anyone) explain what is meant? Simply following the directions, not applying too many coats, what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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