Bell Forest Wood - Shop Acclimation


wouldwurker

Recommended Posts

Quick question.

 

I just got my shipment of 20 board feet of Flame Birch (so pretty by the way), from Bell Forest.

 

Is there any advantage to keeping the boards in the sparingly wrapped, tight bundle, as it was shipped, while it acclimates?  To limit the movement maybe?

 

If not, I'd store them in the usual manner while they adjust.

 

Thanks

--VJ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I love working flame birch. I buy mine from Bob Kloes at http://www.bobkloes.com/lumber.htm

 

Bob ships using FedEx. My wood comes packaged exactly like that. Bob even uses plastic band straps to hold everything tight.  I have had no issue stacking my boards against the wall, really not necessary to sticker. Bob's wood is kiln dried.

 

-Ace-

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll sign up for that service... and I'll even tip if they include a beer.

 

New business venture: Enhanced Project Packs  

 

Includes

  • Project plans
  • Project pack of wood
  • Hardware per project plans
  • Choice of Meat Product, 1 meal per 20 hours estimated work time
  • Choice of Alcohol, amount dependent on project 

 

Did I miss anything?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

New business venture: Enhanced Project Packs  

 

Includes

  • Project plans
  • Project pack of wood
  • Hardware per project plans
  • Choice of Meat Product, 1 meal per 20 hours estimated work time
  • Choice of Alcohol, amount dependent on project 

 

Did I miss anything?

 

  All parts pre-milled and cut to size.

  Light sanding and finishing required.

  Instant on-line help and advice available 24-7. 

 

 Rog

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Hey Everyone! 

We're coming into this thread quite late, our apologies!. Most of our lumber is kiln dried with the exception of some of the exotic species being air dried. Unless the package(s) stopped in very humid locations for multiple days on end, you should have no problems working with the lumber right away. To ere on the side of caution, you can do exactly what everyone else recommended; sticker the lumber for a few days. 

In the event that you purchased some turning blanks that had wax on them, more than likely they're on the wet side and will require some dry time. Here's a method we suggest using: 

How to dry wood:

    

If the wood still has wax on it, scrape off the wax on the faces and leave approximately 1” of wax on both ends. The easiest way to guarantee that the wood is safe to work with is to take an accurate weight measurement before you start the drying process. If you have a scale that’s accurate to ounces, it’ll help you out even more. Take a weight measurement and write it down. Now, put the blanks in a dry location. Don’t put them near any direct heat sources as it’ll increase the chances for checking/cracking/splitting and could end up turning those pieces into expensive paper weights.

 

 

 

    

Give the blanks a few weeks to sit then weigh the pieces again. Write down the weights and compare them to the original weight. You should notice a difference but, if you don’t, the pieces may be ready to work with. You want to wait for the weight of the wood to level out as that’s an indication that the wood has shed its moisture. If you noticed a big drop in weight, you may want to give the wood more time to dry. Depending on the size of the piece, it may take a few weeks or several months before it’s ready to work with.

 

Thanks,

BFP

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Bell Forest Products said:

Hey Everyone! 

We're coming into this thread quite late, our apologies!. Most of our lumber is kiln dried with the exception of some of the exotic species being air dried. Unless the package(s) stopped in very humid locations for multiple days on end, you should have no problems working with the lumber right away. To ere on the side of caution, you can do exactly what everyone else recommended; sticker the lumber for a few days. 

In the event that you purchased some turning blanks that had wax on them, more than likely they're on the wet side and will require some dry time. Here's a method we suggest using: 

How to dry wood:

 

 

    

If the wood still has wax on it, scrape off the wax on the faces and leave approximately 1” of wax on both ends. The easiest way to guarantee that the wood is safe to work with is to take an accurate weight measurement before you start the drying process. If you have a scale that’s accurate to ounces, it’ll help you out even more. Take a weight measurement and write it down. Now, put the blanks in a dry location. Don’t put them near any direct heat sources as it’ll increase the chances for checking/cracking/splitting and could end up turning those pieces into expensive paper weights.

 

 

 

 

 

    

Give the blanks a few weeks to sit then weigh the pieces again. Write down the weights and compare them to the original weight. You should notice a difference but, if you don’t, the pieces may be ready to work with. You want to wait for the weight of the wood to level out as that’s an indication that the wood has shed its moisture. If you noticed a big drop in weight, you may want to give the wood more time to dry. Depending on the size of the piece, it may take a few weeks or several months before it’s ready to work with.

 

Thanks,

BFP

 

 

 

 

Respectively, I don't agree.   i think you are in northern michigan.  I have a condo in SW michigan (near the lake) and a house in Chicago.   My conditioned air in Michigan is about 45%-60% year round, so KD stock does not move at all there.  I think the lake, and prevailing winds, help regulate RH quite a bit.  My conditioned air in Chicago (about 10 miles inland from Lake Michigan) ranges between 20% and 60%.  So KD lumber moves a ton here in Chicago.    I buy most of my lumber in Michigan and my projects live in both houses.   If I buy Michigan KD lumber in the winter, I definitely need to let it acclimate before building in Chicago.  There is a big difference between 5% and 9% EMC, and KD lumber can easily reach 9% EMC.  

I keep hearing people that KD stock can be worked right away (or after a few days)  and I just have not observed that to be true.  Lumber needs to be acclimated to the conditions in which it will live.  A moisture meter and hygrometer are the easiest ways to check if your lumber is at equilibrium.  If you don't have those, stack, sticker and acclimate.  In my experience, a month is enough time to acclimate 4/4 KD lumber, but that is just a rule of thumb.  

A digital hygrometer ($20) and decent mositure meter ($100) are cheaper than a fixed base router and will save you a whole lot of heart ache if you build with lumber that comes from a different EMC environment.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 48 Guests (See full list)

  • Forum Statistics

    31.2k
    Total Topics
    422k
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    23,771
    Total Members
    3,644
    Most Online
    Kaiweets Tool
    Newest Member
    Kaiweets Tool
    Joined