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OSB vs. Sheetrock


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#21 BuilderBill

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Posted 19 December 2010 - 07:27 AM

Another option is this siding panel from HD. It's more expensive than OSB but looks a heckuva lot better(the texture isn't nearly as pronounced as they show in their photo), holds screws and nails probably just as well, and it's preprimed on the face side so all you have to do is roll on a couple coats of flat latex and back-brush the v-grooves. No nasty drywall dust, mud, tape, or sanding. It's a Masonite/hardboard product, 3/8" thick with shiplap edges.

Here are a couple of photos(apologies for the mess):

paneling-1.jpg

paneling-2.jpg

I was gonna use 1/2" BC ply for walls but stumbled across this, it looks a lot better and paints up really nice.

HTH,
Bill

#22 Dyami Plotke

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Posted 19 December 2010 - 09:59 AM

Another option is this siding panel from HD. It's more expensive than OSB but looks a heckuva lot better(the texture isn't nearly as pronounced as they show in their photo), holds screws and nails probably just as well, and it's preprimed on the face side so all you have to do is roll on a couple coats of flat latex and back-brush the v-grooves. No nasty drywall dust, mud, tape, or sanding. It's a Masonite/hardboard product, 3/8" thick with shiplap edges.

Here are a couple of photos(apologies for the mess):

paneling-1.jpg

paneling-2.jpg

I was gonna use 1/2" BC ply for walls but stumbled across this, it looks a lot better and paints up really nice.

HTH,
Bill

Bill,
the siding panels look like a nice alternative to Sheetrock in terms of ease of installation and fastener holding. While they also beat OSB in terms of ease of installation because OSB has actual intact wood fibers (small pieces, yes, but still real wood as opposed to sawdust) it has far superior fastener holding ability than panels made from Masonite. Masonite is similar to MDF in that it's made of sawdust which cannot properly hold a screw thread. Also, the siding panels are limited in their thickness to 3/8" for about $12-$14 dollars a sheet you can pick up a sheet of 3/4" T&G OSB. While 3/4" may seem like overkill (and it is very heavy) it's certainly cheap enough for me. And by using 3/4" OSB to sheath the walls I can attached whatever I want wherever I want and not worry about hitting studs (except for my lumber rack, which I will attach to the studs).

At the end of the day, whichever way you to (sheet rock, paneling or OSB) comes down what you think is most important. Any way, you'll be well sheathed.

#23 Texfire

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Posted 01 September 2011 - 01:48 PM

I just wrestled with this issue, and have decided for sheetrock. It's cheaper, has better sound and temperature insulating properties and it's cheaper. I was tempted by plywood, but it prices the project out of my reach for a shop I'm only planning on keeping for a couple of years. Sure it has it's cons, I worry about putting holes in it, and you can't hang anything on it. I'm going to solve the holding problem with french cleats secured to the studs and fabricate some peg board on cleats for areas where I want to hang tools on the walls. When I move shop the fixtures can come with me as well as the cleats. Did I mention sheetrock is cheaper? But ultimately I think it's the insulating qualities that sold me, after dealing with one of the hottest summers on record, I want my AC to work well when installed, and keep my operating costs down.

#24 Particle Board

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Posted 01 September 2011 - 02:47 PM

Osb burns real nice.

Don

#25 Texfire

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Posted 01 September 2011 - 03:26 PM

That was part of my thinking too. I really don't want to contribute to an early structural failure if someone has to come to my burning shop.

#26 dcustoms

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Posted 02 September 2011 - 05:08 AM

I wish I would have put something other than Sheetrock up in my shop. t &g osb or sub floor ply seems like the least expensive option. really though i think it comes down to personal preference.

#27 TimV

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Posted 02 September 2011 - 05:13 AM

I went with sheetrock in my shop, but then again its a room in a finished basement. It really isn't that big of an issue to find and use the studs to hang stuff.

#28 Mike M

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Posted 02 September 2011 - 05:19 AM

I used sheetrock painted with a semigloss enamel. The big advantage is the smooth surface doesn't hold the dust as much as the rough surface of OSB. I hang stuff on french cleats that are screwed to the studs so I don't need the strength of OSB. A swipe with the spackling knife and a daub of paint and the dings and holes are gone.

#29 Texfire

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Posted 02 September 2011 - 05:18 AM

My slab has a lip before the studs, I'm going to leave that uncovered by siding, before the studs get closed in I'm going to mark their location with paint.

#30 Particle Board

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Posted 02 September 2011 - 06:51 AM

I think if I was going to go with any sort of wood product it would be LP smart side t 1 11. Its just very dense osb but has a baked on primer on the outside. Its very hard and is tough to get a nail through it. But since wood interior walls that are not over sheet rock do not meet code I'm just sticking with sheet rock, no sense in two wall layers. Id suggest checking your insurance policy. Most have a clause for material, process and workmanship defects that can exclude the extra damage that is going to be caused by using osb in case of a fire. Putting osb on the walls would be thought of as a homeowner remodel work leaving you solely responsible for not building to code. On the other hand if its a detached shop it doesn't matter what you use as long as it doesn't cause the damage to be worse. The interior wall and energy codes do not apply unless you have a furnace or ac in your detached shop. My shop is being built without anything and I'll go back later and do the insulation and drywall work. If it was an attached shop then it would have to be insulated and sheet rocked for the occupancy inspection.

Don

#31 Texfire

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Posted 02 September 2011 - 11:22 AM

I guess I disagree with less fire protection being okay if it's detached, but that's from the perspective of someone who may have to go into one of these when it's burning. Anything that keeps a room and contents fire from becoming a structural fire is better for the firefighter. Of course it's my responsibility to decide when it's safe to enter, not the homeowner's, but I feel the same way about modern trusses and glu-lam beams.