First project in nearly three decades


lemmy_k

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My dad recently gave me his entire collection of woodworking tools, so I decided to make use of them. I started with a simple design for a bench for the back yard. I am pretty happy with it. Now my wife wants something "nice" for the porch.

I used everything but the drill press. All of the wood is from the free bin at the local Home Depot where I work. I made my own filler using saw dust, outdoor wood glue and ebony stain. The only real expense was getting new pipe for the clamps to make them long enough to hold it together.

Since it's completion, I have found a really nice oak pallet that I am going to make into a table/footrest to match the bench.

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I was just thinking end grain cutting board makers eat your hearts out, lol.  Great looking bench!  Thinking back I would be horrified to sit on my first project (it was a wood fame go-cart and thank the Lord that my mother didn't let me actually put a engine on it (DEATH TRAP)… lol.  Looking forward to your next post.

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Thanks for the kind words.

 

Hi Lemmy, welcome to the party. That's a very interesting bench. Is the end-grain seat just a solid thick slab, or is there some sort of support under it?

 

There is support under it. I routed out the main frame and glued 3/4" plywood in. I then had my son place the blocks wherever he wanted. I used some construction adhesive to glue them down to the plywood, then used filler and scraps to fill in the rest.

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  • 5 months later...

Ok. So a few months down the road here and the adhesive I used to hold the blocks on the the seat down with didn't like water. All of the blocks have let loose. I am going to have to redo the seat and try a different adhesive. I am going to seal the base as well while I am at it and pour the varnish on the seat this time. My idea is that I wont have to sand ewvey block and re-coat them and that it will seal in the adhesive.

I made the pallet table to match, but my wife said it looks like a pallet so we won't be keeping it.

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Let’s start again... Let’s use marine epoxy to make the slab... Get some West Systems 105/206 for the glue-up...

 

When the slab is done, seal it with four coats CPES and topcoat with Epifanes/Pettit... Or seal it with 105/207 and topcoat w/ same...

 

There are numerous threads outlining the ‘why’, but just take my word for it – or you can download, ‘Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction’ and read chapters 11 through 15...

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Let’s start again... Let’s use marine epoxy to make the slab... Get some West Systems 105/206 for the glue-up...

 

When the slab is done, seal it with four coats CPES and topcoat with Epifanes/Pettit... Or seal it with 105/207 and topcoat w/ same...

 

There are numerous threads outlining the ‘why’, but just take my word for it – or you can download, ‘Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction’ and read chapters 11 through 15...

 

Perfect advise!  A little expensive but, better than having to redo the work!

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My feelings exactly... I hate re-do’s...

 

As I get wiser (I hope), I realize you can’t buy more time...

 

Some things are obsolete the minute they are finished and a re-do is always in the future (like my saw and plane tills – scheduled for later this year), but in general, I like to build once...

 

One thing for the OP – there are some experienced and respected woodworkers who don’t finish outdoor furniture – they build with rot-resistant species, and then let the piece disintegrate... It’s a method... Personally, I don’t subscribe to it, but I understand it... At a minimum, the seat needs weather resistant adhesives and some penetrating sealant... Depending where you are, maybe you don’t need marine-grade components -- some will say you can go with TBIII... Personally, I don’t touch the stuff... If you want to do the experiment for us, use TBIII and let us know how long it lasts... Personally, I’d spend the bucks for marine-grade adhesives and high-solids UV marine-grade varnish for the horizontal surfaces... I get my stuff from Jamestown Distributers... They’ve got helpful videos and a good help line... They are a class outfit worthy of patronage... BWT is the 105/205 Pettit go-to... I used it for the first time (although I went 207) over the weekend, and see the advantages and disadvanteges re CPES... Maybe he can chime in...

 

Good luck,

 

I'm out...

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I edge glued a small genuine mahogany table top with TB3 a few months ago. It is already failing. Maybe, maybe I was glue starved in that one spot. But next time is will use West Systems. It is not worth the risk.

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I used Titebond III on this windmill made of fir strips about four years ago and it is still standing. Four years of Kansas winters and summers  (and wind) are hard on material and glue but, it is holding together well. Just TB 3 and a few pin nails but, I did have to bolt it to some 24" angle iron stakes because of the wind. 

 

 

IMG_1478_zpsjn38a56a.jpg

 

 

The difference in color is because the lawn sprinklers get used more often than we get rain. :) And of course I don't let the grand kids climb on it either.

 

Rog

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Thanks for the tips. I spent the money on marine varnish and it worked so the adhesive makes perfect sense.

Fortunaetly it doesn't look like I need to resand everyrthing. I just need to pull the blocks and reglue.

I have had several people ask me to build them one just like it, so maybe it will pay for itself. I'd like to have the bugs worked out before I build them for someone else.

Roger, I'd love to make a windmill! I really need to work on my skills before I attempt that.

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I used Titebond III on this windmill made of fir strips about four years ago and it is still standing. Four years of Kansas winters and summers (and wind) are hard on material and glue but, it is holding together well. Just TB 3 and a few pin nails but, I did have to bolt it to some 24" angle iron stakes because of the wind.

IMG_1478_zpsjn38a56a.jpg

The difference in color is because the lawn sprinklers get used more often than we get rain. :) And of course I don't let the grand kids climb on it either.

Rog

but but but grandpa! It's begging to be climbed on!!!
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=>holding together well. Just TB 3 and a few pin nails
Mostly vertical construction... With appropriate care, I suspect TB3 is OK vertically... Horizontal surfaces are another thing all together...

 

Since I inventory every presentation of West Systems, I just use WS for everything outdoors... I know there is a significant price difference over TB3, but it takes all the worry out of the equation for joinery exposed to moisture...

 

The only PVA I use is TB-Extend... Otherwise, it’s UF, HHG, LHG and some exotic adhesives... Actually, I do use Joe’s PVA veneer adhesives on occasion...

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so i have been scheming an outdoor cedar table. about 18 high by about 16x20 top.  i had been thinking of making the top as a 1.5-2 inch butcher block pattern. I had seen one similar to this. 

 

I was thinking west system adhesive, but as far as the finish i was planning a teak oil type finish.  would it be worth just skipping the teak oil and sealing with the 105/207 as described above?

 

this is just to put my beer and phone on when i am sitting on the deck. obviously small enough to take in for the winter, keep under the umbrella ...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Something someone said about adhesive holding while vertical got me to thinking... if my blocks are pretty much held in by gravity, do I really need something to hold them in? Part of the problem is expansion and contraction. Since I plan on sealing the wood completely with the marine varnish this time, could I just use silicone under the blocks on the seat? All i really need it to do is keep the varnish from running out when I pour it. Silicone remains flexible after it dries as does my varnish.

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