estesbubba Posted January 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 Looking great, Mike. Nothing like Nordfab duct to make a shop look pro and awesome. It actually is spiral pipe but does look pretty good. I found a local company that sells everything way cheaper than anywhere on the Internet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted January 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 Looks great! Question though ... The drum sander motor seems to be all up on the planer. Will that be an issue of hitting it on accident and taking a little more wear and tear than usual? It's just the perspective of the photo. The planer outfeed won't hit it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 It's just the perspective of the photo. The planer outfeed won't hit it. Oh ok. Then that is good news Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janello Posted January 5, 2015 Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 Those manual operated blast gates Mike? Doesn't look like you can reach them easily? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted January 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 Just finished up my 2nd drop which completes the branch. Need to build something to help support the TS/jointer drop weight. First time doing this there are things I could do better but pretty happy so far. Now to continue the main with router and bandsaw drops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted January 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 Those manual operated blast gates Mike? Doesn't look like you can reach them easily? They are manual and I can open them standing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted January 5, 2015 Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 Just finished up my 2nd drop which completes the branch. Need to build something to help support the TS/jointer drop weight. First time doing this there are things I could do better but pretty happy so far. Now to continue the main with router and bandsaw drops.ImageUploadedByTapatalk1420426899.931012.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1420426911.518334.jpg Maybe a support off the end of your TS? Looks awesome! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted January 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 Maybe a support off the end of your TS? Looks awesome! I was thinking that or something on the floor under the jointer blast gate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted January 5, 2015 Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 Another option might be a cable hanger from the ceiling to support the weight - it would be out of your way then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janello Posted January 5, 2015 Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 I would use 1 5/8 unistrut with 2 post bases and banding iron. You would have to buy 10 foot of it, but I'm sure you'll find a use fot the left over. Mount the strut bases with a few 3/8 or 1/2" drop in concrete anchors. If you ever need to relocate they are flush with the floor surface. You could also get real fancy and get a 6" ips strut clamp vs the banding iron. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted January 5, 2015 Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 ==>I found a local company that sells everything way cheaper than anywhere on the Internet. Need to rejig my setup... Could use a new source... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted January 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 ==>I found a local company that sells everything way cheaper than anywhere on the Internet. Need to rejig my setup... Could use a new source... Here is where I got my stuffhttp://www.wsmind.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keggers Posted January 5, 2015 Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 Took some pics for you. Mine also has a vacuum ring that goes in the bottom of the drum.ImageUploadedByTapatalk1420330666.089680.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1420330674.719503.jpg Thanks for the photos. Mine doesn't have the ports to attach a hose to either item. Guess I'm sticking to the liner. It's worked good for me so that's no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted January 5, 2015 Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 Keep finding more uses for a drywall lift. I have two of them, and they've never had sheetrock on them. It all looks great to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted January 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2015 A few things to tidy up but DC is done. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted January 11, 2015 Report Share Posted January 11, 2015 Looks downright awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-MattK- Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 Looks terrific! One question on the dust collection for the sawstop - I'm shopping for one and wasn't sure if I needed the over-arm dust collection - I figured you could just tap the blade guard into the shop's system - is the over-arm better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 How many times have you had to empty it so far? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted March 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 Looks terrific! One question on the dust collection for the sawstop - I'm shopping for one and wasn't sure if I needed the over-arm dust collection - I figured you could just tap the blade guard into the shop's system - is the over-arm better? You don't need the overarm but it does work well. There's a promo going on now and you can get it free. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 You don't need the overarm but it does work well. There's a promo going on now and you can get it free. That sucks! Got my sawstop a week ago, and paid for the overarm dust collection. Would have waited if i knew a promo was coming up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 That sucks! Got my sawstop a week ago, and paid for the overarm dust collection. Would have waited if i knew a promo was coming up isn't that how it it always goes though. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted March 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 Since there are a lot of DC posts lately, and of course 100 different opinions, I thought I would update this with what I did. I tried to design it correctly and used 2 different resources calculating CFM, CP, and FPM and hit all the requirements. In my one-man shop I run with only a single blast gate open at a time. Calculating my 8-6" reducer at the cyclone, seasoned filter, 6" pipe, 45 wyes, 45 elbows, 90 long radius elbow, and 4" flex pipe, my biggest SP loss is the drum sander at 9.0. Looking at the SP vs CFM curve for my machine, that route is running at 1100 CFM with one blast gate open. In order to keep 4500 FPM in 6" pipe you need at least 882 CFM. So if my calculations are all correct, I'm maintaining at least 1100 CFM and 4500 FPM with my system. According to my research this is good. If I ran 8" out of the cyclone to the first wye that would decrease my SP by 2.5, going from 9.0 to 6.5. That will give me 1300 CFM at the drum sander which is an increase of 200 CFM. But then, 8" pipe requires 1570 CFM to maintain 4500 FPM and 1396 CFM to maintain 4000 FPM, so now I'm dropping below FPM requirements. Going with 7" to first wye would decrease my SP by 2.0 putting the numbers at 7.0 SP and 1250 CFM. 4500 FPM for 7" pipe require 1202 CFM barely good there. So 8" looks like to little FPM and 7" just enough. Would going with 7" to first wye enough to make a difference - I don't know? All I know is it sucks hard at the drum sander as-is. This site has some information on duct design using spiral pipe: http://www.spiralmfg.com/ My manual also had a lot of good information: https://d27ewrs9ow50op.cloudfront.net/manuals/g0441_m.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew-in-austin Posted March 6, 2015 Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 One thing you might want to consider is the effect of SP based on the FPM. The manual you referenced kind of shows this, where they give different figures for SP based on the 3500 & 4000 FPM. I believe the SP will increase by the square of the relative increase in FPM. So, 4500 FPM would have (4500/4000)^2 or 1.26x higher SP than the SP for a pipe at 4000 FPM. BTW, when you stated "with one blast gate open", that was in addition to the blast gate for your sander? Have you thought about getting an anemometer to measure CFM directly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted March 6, 2015 Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 ==>One thing you might want to consider is the effect of SP based on the FPM. There’s a couple of issues with the numbers, you caught one and the other is SP/CFM performance is not linear.... EB got to the big issue: constant diameter ducting does little to mitigate transport static pressure loss – doesn’t really matter if it’s constant 8” diameter, constant 7” or 6” – constant diameter really doesn’t get you there unless you deploy a mongo-cyclone or have really short runs (or both).… On the surface, the 3HP/6” approach looks like it works… But the numbers used in the calculations resemble linear extrapolations from Max-inlet, not measured performance curve… Linear-fan-performance is the big issue with many on-line SP calculators – they treat inlet as a constant source, which it is not… So if you use industry planning numbers*, the 6” constant-diameter case doesn’t work-out so well… *Note: The published Grizzly numbers vary from industry planning numbers for a 3HP/15”impeller/8”inlet cyclone… Industry numbers are closer to: 12WC/200CFM, 10/800, 6/1200, 4/1400 and max inlet around 1450CFM/12WC give or take. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted March 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 One thing you might want to consider is the effect of SP based on the FPM. The manual you referenced kind of shows this, where they give different figures for SP based on the 3500 & 4000 FPM. I believe the SP will increase by the square of the relative increase in FPM. So, 4500 FPM would have (4500/4000)^2 or 1.26x higher SP than the SP for a pipe at 4000 FPM. BTW, when you stated "with one blast gate open", that was in addition to the blast gate for your sander? Have you thought about getting an anemometer to measure CFM directly? I only have 1 blast gate open at a time. I don't have a anemometer - where do you put them to take measurements? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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