flagboy Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 I have a dresser top (62"x18") that was damaged by sunscreen lotion. The damage went right through the original veneer so I could not sand and refinish. I've purchased a 96"x24" section of veneer to place on top of the damaged surface. The problem I'm going to have will be when it comes time to trim the excess. As you can see in the pictures the edge treatment will not allow me to use an edge trimmer, or I should say I know of no way this can be done with an edge trimmer. If I could lay the new veneet perfectly I would only need to trim the back side which has a 90 degree edge. Of course my chance of setting it perfectly are zero since I plan to use contact cement. Since I'm only a really rough carpenter at best I'm turning to the experts here for suggestions on how I might trim the veneer, or is there a different means of adhering the veneer that would allow me to manipulate the veneer so that it aligns with the top surface eliminating the need for trimming except for maybe on the backside? Thanks for any suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 Looks like a fairly standard router profile. Perhaps you could rout the entire profile after the laminate is secured to the top? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 You could take careful measurements before you glue down the veneer and clamp a straightedge to guide a razor knife or veneer saw. Make sure to clean and seal the stain so the glue will stick and the stain won't bleed up into the new veneer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave H Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 Or you could use a rabbeting bit to cut a square shoulder add a piece onto the rabbet veneer the top and trim the edge than re-cut the profile on the edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 I have a skew edge trimmer that will recieve a fence and perform this job excellently. Welcome to the forums! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 The biggest problem with doing that is the edge of the veneer will remain exposed since it will sit proud of the trim. It's extremely fragile and will be easily damaged. Unfortunately, at least in my opinion, the only way to get it done right will be to rebuild the top...new veneer and new trim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 Your over thinking it. This is a scribe cut not a flush trim. If your gluing down in a vacuum press it should be fine if not I would agree with Eric. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flagboy Posted January 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 Thanks for the suggestions. You've all given me things to consider. Here is a little more detail that might explain where I'm coming from. I don't have any real finish carpentry tools...a multi tool is about it so I'm going to have to do this with what I've got. The dresser is in a spare bedroom. It basically is there to fill the space. I keep some of my special motorcycle clothing in the drawers, but that is it. Once or twice a year at most guests would stay in the room. Because of the way it is used the new top will not need to stand up to typical use/abuse. I've been reading and watching everything I can find on applying veneer. Right now I'm thinking the best way for me to go is with yellow wood glue and the iron method. That would allow me to align the veneer precisely on front edge and one side edge that faces the room. Trimming the back will be very easy since that is a 90 degree edge. The other side edge faces a corner so if I'm less than perfect trimming that side it won't be much of a concern. I've read that the yellow glue method can have issues when temperature and humidity fluctuates. I see no reason for me to be concerned with that. I live in Southern Utah where the humidity indoors is low and stays low all the time. Temperature indoors is pretty much the same all year round, between 70 and 80. Any thoughts on this approach? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 Well, since the excess is going to be hidden, an exacto knife and a block plane! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flagboy Posted January 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 Update: I went with the yellow glue and iron method and it came out as good as I could have hoped for. Using just the tools I had available: EMS scissors, Exacto knife, straight edge, utility razor, foam sanding blocks, mill file, and a Dremel I was able to match the original top exactly. The scrap bits of veneer will make it easy to get the color right on the finish. The paper-backed veneer was easy to work with. I can see where I could be using it in future. I've got an RV with a tacky faux wood treatment on the refrigerator door. Real wood veneer would look really nice in that application. Thanks again for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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