First Journal- walnut/maple end table


Brendon_t

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First project journal here. I am helping my friend build a walnut and curly maple end table.

So far, we have milled up all lumber, face glued two pieces of maple for each leg, Once cured, I squared them on the ts then ran all the legs through the drum sander at 120 to erase saw marks.

I have a "kit" already made for the whole build meaning I have gone through my cut list and cut all the pieces I will need from the milled stock.

Tonight I will take pictures and start the photo journal from there. I am not making any more cuts until my new blade gets here tomorrow. Tonight, I'm going to prep a new ZCI and I need to build a jig for tapering the legs

Attached is my scale drawings as well as the table that served as inspiration.

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Update with pics. last night, I glued up 3 of the panels for the sides because I ran out of clamps and built the jig I wanted to do for the taper on the legs.

First pic is the table that served as inspiration, next two are my to scale drawings with changes to the design.

After is the kit I have ready for the build, close up of the curly legs, and lastly the taper jig made from scrap mdf, a strip of oak, and a square piece of 2x2 red oak scrap.

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I would try to push your clamp block against your work piece to help ensure it doesn't move on you.  It's kind of a PITA to set up the first one but, after that all you have to do is drop them in and go without measuring and marking your lines on each one.

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Brendon, Have you used the tapering jig yet? There's just something about the "1/2" x 1/2" strip" to the left of the kerf that doesn't look safe. If you removed it, the cutoff would ride on the sled and not be pushed by this piece. Am I thinking this correctly?

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Cooper, I absolutely agree. I don't want the cutoff to be caught in there.

Maybe I should re configure the block completely as the holding piece

I used that strip on the outside thinking that the blade would be pushing the wood in that direction away fron the toggle switches, not toward it.

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Made good progress last night. . The cuts on each leg are made, the two side skirts and back skirt are planed down to thickness and cut to length.

The box joints for the frame of the beer bottle caps were cut and fit great.

Biggest progress of the night, I talked my friend into abandoning the bottle cap top and use solid walnut instead. He agreed that the rest of the table was too nice to cheapen it with the beer cap resin top.

I also made an extra glued up panel to test finishes. The blo is definitely the front runner at this point.

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With the beer cap top monkey off of my back, I grabbed another piece of walnut that had a cool heart wood split on one side but had a lot of sap wood up each side. This is the only way i could figure out to make it look decent

The miters on the legs also look pretty cool to me.

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Thank you much. I know I shouldn't be even dry fitting yet but it just feels so dang good.

The boo boo I mentioned was not marking clearly which side of my scribe line to plunge down in to. . You guessed it, I have about a 1/4" deep plunge hole from the router bit on the visible side.

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It should be fine. Plug with a scrap from the same board if at all possible. Back leg below eye level who's going to notice it if (and its a big if) you can keep the mistake to yourself. If someone asks about the table tell them it's hand made from solid wood, but keep the little stuff between us woodworkers who understand.

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