bushwacked Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 Read this first ... http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/which-saw-blade-should-i-buy/?aob=date&apt=article&mode=posts I have seen a few of those questions ... So just making sure you have read Marc's new article on. It explains a ton about the subject and a great read and will answer most questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cabinfever Posted January 21, 2015 Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 Well this is the same as my response there, but I find it hard to beat the Freud Premier Fusion… it has a .91 kerf, and the Freud LM75R010 Glue Line Rip does as well. Great all purpose combo, for the price of a single Forrest Woodworker II. For lower powered 110V saws, like the 1.75HP SawStop, they work great. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted January 21, 2015 Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 It of course depends on what substrate you are cutting. I have found that, rather than using a combo blade for everything, changing blades to suit the stock being cut actually minimises reworking time afterwards (correcting tear out or burning). With 10" blades in mind: If you are using a lot of sheet goods then something with 60 to 80 teeth would be great utilizing a zero clearance insert to minimise tear out. Some saws have a smaller slitting blade ahead of the main blade to score laminates like melamine or ply. If you do a lot of ripping then a 24T rip blade is preferable. For everything else (occasional ripping, mainly crosscutting lumber) a combo blade will suffice. You may get more life from a premium blade but those shotgun cartridges in Sawstops don't care what the blade is. Could be expensive - keep your fingers clear. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jfitz Posted January 21, 2015 Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 I agree with Terry. I use a 24T rip blade for most ripping, and a Forrest WWII blade for most everything else. You get more use out of a sharp blade, but those sharp blades don't care what finger they cut.* (*totally tongue in cheek.....just bustin ya a little Terry 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vyrolan Posted January 21, 2015 Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 How would you guys compare the older Freud 50-tooth combo blades (LU83R010 for thin kerf) to the WWII or the newer fusion ones? http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU83R010-10-Inch-Combination-PermaShield/dp/B00020JOAA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knotscott Posted January 21, 2015 Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 IME, the LU83, LU84 (full kerf version) leaves slightly more pronounced swirl marks than the WWII 40T (as do most other 50T ATB/R combo blades in comparison), but are less prone to burning due to have more generous side clearance geometries. The P410 Fusion, similar Infinity Super General, and new WWII 48T all provide cleaner crosscuts and ply cuts than either, as well as more polished rip cuts, but are even more prone to burning than the WWII 40T. Note the importance of clarifying "more prone" to burning, and not "prone" to burning....they're great in most common thicknesses and applications on a good saw, but are less tolerant of materials that are prone to burning, thicker materials, poor setups, and wood that's not flat and straight. Tips for Picking Saw Blades 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted January 21, 2015 Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 I no longer answer these threads. I know it is only a matter of time before Knotscott pastes a link to a near comprehensive article as resource material Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knotscott Posted January 21, 2015 Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 I no longer answer these threads. I know it is only a matter of time before Knotscott pastes a link to a near comprehensive article as resource material Hang in there. Lent is just around the corner, and I'm giving up saw blade posts for Lent! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vyrolan Posted January 21, 2015 Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 Thanks knotscott! Exactly what I wanted to know. =) I've been really liking my LU83 so far but noticed the bits of tearout on the near edge when cross cutting. Just a bit of fraying not really a big issue. I plan to use that one for most everything and then have one of the super fine finish ultimate plywood or wahtever you want to call it to use if I ever need perfect ply cuts or cross cuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinF Posted February 1, 2015 Report Share Posted February 1, 2015 Thanks knotscott! Exactly what I wanted to know. =) I've been really liking my LU83 so far but noticed the bits of tearout on the near edge when cross cutting. Just a bit of fraying not really a big issue. I plan to use that one for most everything and then have one of the super fine finish ultimate plywood or wahtever you want to call it to use if I ever need perfect ply cuts or cross cuts.ive got the same blade and I've had really good luck with mine, I did have some small amounts of burning in maple and cherry, not sure if it's me the blade or the fact my saw was a touch out of kilter? Probably a combination, but it's 100% better than the full kerf tool shop brand blade that was on the saw... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vyrolan Posted February 1, 2015 Report Share Posted February 1, 2015 Yea I've liked it too but I think I was just used to finer crosscut on the 60-tooth ATB. I definitely don't like the combo on plywood as I was getting a lot of tearout. I think I'll get a nice 80-tooth for good plywood and use my 60-tooth for crap plywood/mdf/etc. Then I'll try to only use the 50-tooth combo for solid wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted February 1, 2015 Report Share Posted February 1, 2015 ive got the same blade and I've had really good luck with mine, I did have some small amounts of burning in maple and cherry, not sure if it's me the blade or the fact my saw was a touch out of kilter? Probably a combination, but it's 100% better than the full kerf tool shop brand blade that was on the saw... Not trying to be smart, but when was the last time you cleaned the blade? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted February 1, 2015 Report Share Posted February 1, 2015 I'm a sucker for punishment. I change my blade based on my cut. I've changed the blade a couple of times so far for my cabinet build. I have a 48 tooth Trend combo blade that actually does a really good job on rip cuts and an acceptable job on cross cuts. I switched to my 80 tooth Freud ultimate cross cut blade for the final cross cutting. I also used it for cutting the ply which left a great finish on the ply with little to no tear out on the ply. Tip for cutting ply, raise the blade all the way up so the angle in which the teeth are cutting the ply changes and gives you a better cut. If you've got a zero clearance plate in your table it leaves an even cleaner edge. As always, be careful! (especially with the blade that high) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinF Posted February 2, 2015 Report Share Posted February 2, 2015 Not trying to be smart, but when was the last time you cleaned the blade?never, it was only a couple weeks old, but then I made a project that depended on nice square dados. That's when I discovered things with the saw weren't right. It didn't show up on a single cut, it was to minor, but making dado cuts for a box made it show up big time! I've gotten part of it straightened out before the hard freeze, now I get to spend a couple days cleaning and aligning this spring! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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