Buying a table saw but which one?


duckkisser

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Ok so grizzly has always had a mixed review depending on the person buying the machine. So this is not a question of if I should buy grizzly but rather which of their table saw should I buy. I'm sold on geting a more up to date table saw since a used one will still have some issues with safety and dust control. The table saw will end up being the work horse of my shop but it still has to be resonable priced that's why I'm going with grizzly.

I want it to be easy to install the riving knife, access the inside for changing out the blade and removing dust from the machine. I have not had good luck in the last year of finding Used table saw on Craigslist that is in my price range. So I just settled on buying a new saw. I have my choice between these two saws. I'm mostly looking at the 5hp saw for the hp so is the 5hp saw worth the extra 121 dollers the router table is not needed since I want to build a enclosed router table so I can manage the dust better.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-3-HP-240V-Cabinet-Left-Tilting-Table-Saw/G1023RL

http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-5-HP-240V-Cabinet-Left-Tilting-Table-Saw/G1023RLWX

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I have a Grizzly with a 3 hp and really like.  There is on occasion that the extra hp would have been helpful.  It would also have added to the safety of the saw.

Mark have you had any problems with the riving knife? The craftsman we have at work is difficult to keep the riving knife aligned I have to adjust all the time. Also there is not a lot of room for my hand when I'm adjusting the blade or a bolts on the riving knife. Does it seem like the grizzly has similar problems.

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I have a 12" 5 H.P. Grizzly saw. I guess I've had it for almost 7 years now and have really worked it hard. The only problem I've had with it is I recently had to replace the on/off power switch. The only safely feature I use on my saw is the riving knife. I've never had to adjust it. It's easy on and easy off when I have to remove it -  like when I'm using my dado blades. One thing that I have no knowledge of is if they have chanded the design of the riving knife and how it attaches. I can't help you there. A simple phone call to Grizzly can answer that for you.

 

The saw has never bogged down and has cut everything I've pushed through it with ease.

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Here is the biggest difference that I see. The 5 HP saw is going to have to run off of a 30A breaker and the 3 HP saw will run off a 20A breaker and actually only needs a 15A breaker because the maximum draw is only 14 amps. Not sure if your running a dedicated panel for your shop or just off the house panel. I personally would not want to have a 30A breaker when I could run a saw that is just as good off a 20A breaker. 

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Those are both a great bang for the buck IMO.  Having a wider extension is always nice even if you didn't use is as a router table....using as a router table has some benefits too.  I don't recall ever bogging down my 3hp motor, so I'm not convinced 5hp is necessary, but if your circuit can deliver the extra amperage and the price is right, the extra power never hurts.  

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Mark have you had any problems with the riving knife? The craftsman we have at work is difficult to keep the riving knife aligned I have to adjust all the time. Also there is not a lot of room for my hand when I'm adjusting the blade or a bolts on the riving knife. Does it seem like the grizzly has similar problems.

Never had a problem with it!

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Here is the biggest difference that I see. The 5 HP saw is going to have to run off of a 30A breaker and the 3 HP saw will run off a 20A breaker and actually only needs a 15A breaker because the maximum draw is only 14 amps. Not sure if your running a dedicated panel for your shop or just off the house panel. I personally would not want to have a 30A breaker when I could run a saw that is just as good off a 20A breaker.

I have a dedicated box in the garage and I have 20 spaces in my box so I have plenty of room for a single 30 amp circuit. I know that for 90 percent of my cuts 3hp is enough its when I'm cuting a slab or I'm using my table saw to resawing something that's when I'm going to want that extra 5hp. If it was 500-1000 dollars more then I would not get the 5hp and make do with the 3hp but frankly 120 dollers is prity resonable for a much more powerful saw. Unless it's going to cost a small fortune to run the 5hp machine over the 3hp saw then I don't see any real reason to not buy it.

Is there my real good reason not to get the5hp saw if someone can give me a good reason not to buy it then I won't get it and instead spend the extra 120 on something else like a air compressor. But like knots said the extra 2hp can't hurt.

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when I'm cuting a slab or I'm using my table saw to resawing something that's when I'm going to want that extra 5hp

 

 

That's what a bandsaw is for. :)

 

But for an extra $120 it's a no-brainer...go for it...assuming they're not cutting corners somewhere else in the saw to make up for it.

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Tiods They look like the same machine.

How is a 5hp machine safer? Less force you have to push on to the machine?

Yes, I was referring to the once in a great while that I have bogged down my 3hp machine. Although its never caused an accident it sure is an uncomfortable feeling!

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