JoeN Posted January 21, 2015 Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 I have an unusual circumstance in which I'm considering challenging the status quo and using the Bullseye Amber Shellac (waxed) with General Finishes High Performance water based poly over the top. Now I know the status quo is to use de-waxed shellac such as a SealCoat and then you can put most things over it. I was watching one of Mark's videos about challenging common knowledge and putting Minwax Poly over amber shellac. He had good results but that's an oil based product. I did a test piece with the water based poly and it turned out just fine, but I worry about longevity. Any thoughts on this? In case you were wondering why I'm considering this it's because it's winter and in Eastern Washington outside temps are in the 20's which means I'm finishing in my garage (without any venting capabilities). Last week I used Arm-r-seal (oil based urethane) and it stunk up the house; lets just say my wife wasn't all that impressed with me. Anyway I want to finish a trestle table that I've been staring at for the past few months, it's all hard maple with some black walnut accents but I've found that just spraying water based finishes doesn't give the "pop" that I desire out of maple. In order to prevent the nasty VOC's from filling the rest of my house I'm considering doing the Amber Shellac (love the look of it) with the High Performance Poly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted January 21, 2015 Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 Why not just remove the question from play? You can 'dewax' the shellac yourself. I suggest moving it from the can to a clear glass container, so you can see what's happening. Let the shellac sit for a couple of days, and you will notice the waxy solids settle to the bottom. Carefully decant the less waxy liquid from the top to another container, and you are good to go. Marc is probably correct, as your own experiment shows. However, taking this extra step should keep you from worrying about it over the long haul. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted January 21, 2015 Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 Personally, I would avoid and not for the fact it's waxed shellac. I would dye the wood with an amber dye to obtain the desired color. The water-based poly needs a good mechanical bond with the surface. Can't remember if Bullseye is a 2 pound cut and may seal the wood off too much. How many coats of the shellac are you going to need to achieve your color? Are you thinning the shellac at all? -Ace- 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeN Posted January 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 I was thinking of just putting one coat down, just like Mark's video. However you're probably correct in that a dye would be best. I'm going to keep that test piece around for a while and in a few years I'll revisit the idea. Thanks for your tips, this forum is awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilgaron Posted January 22, 2015 Report Share Posted January 22, 2015 Depending on how the table is to be used the shellac may be tough enough on its own. If you like you can also buy dewaxed shellac flake and make it up yourself. To match the Zinnser amber I believe you'll want orange shellac. I finish in my basement and have taken a heavy liking to shellac over Arm R Seal and so on for the same reasons as you. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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