Wonder what my Veritas setup would be?

[Tony Wilkins]

After reading Derek's more than a review of the new Veritas planes I started thinking of getting one - of course! I'd want a 5 or 5 1/2 because currently I go from 4 to 7.

This would be for 'Charlesworth' style planening. Pondering what handle configuration would be good for someone with weak and painful hands and arms? Since I use mostly walnut and cherry I was figuring 45*. Maybe even lower?

(And yes I know this is a want and not a need)

[G S Haydon]

You have hit upon perhaps the biggest issue with these planes STJ. Derek's article would seem to be a good guide and I'm sure he'd help via PM also. I'd have no idea where to start!

[Arminius]

I don't think it is really that difficult, though to be fair I have had the benefit of holding them in the showroom.  For mostly walnut and cherry, I don't think there is much reason to depart from the traditional 45 degree.   The 40 degree might reduce resistance, but I doubt by enough to merit the increased risk of tear-out for some figure.   I would not go to a York or Middle pitch for most walnut or cherry, certainly not for your everyday jack, maybe for a specialist smoother on some really figured stuff.

 

For the handle, I like the traditional more.  I would think that if your hands are somewhat weaker, the traditional handle would be better - it just seems to me to sit in my hand rather than be gripped.  I also prefer the wide knob, but I think that is more aesthetic on my part. The functional difference of easier to push down is fairly minimal, mostly the weight of the plane is sufficient.  I'd guess the tall knob would be better, simply because you can use your whole hand, or various parts of it.

 

You could always purchase spare knobs and handles, they are available, and I would be very surprised if Lee Valley would have a problem with returning one of the options.

[CStanford]

Ergonomics might make a difference on a scrubber, by far used more vigorously and strenously than other planes.  Unfortunately, I don't think one of these is in Lee Valley's custom lineup.  But then, it would be hard to beat an ECE or other German scrub plane for pure comfort.  Next up, of course, is the jack plane and nobody has improved on a classic wooden one with a thick, tapered iron and heavy capiron from Marples or any of the other great British names of the late 1800s/1900s onward.

 

Anybody doing serious dimensioning by hand has seriously lost their mind if the first plane they put to wood isn't of wood itself. If it all goes through machinery first then there's not much work left to do if the machines have been exploited to their full capability.  A jointer pass or two (maybe) followed by a smoother pass or two and that's about it which is entirely the point behind using machines.

 

Anybody starting the process of four-squaring rough lumber with a metal jack plane is putting themselves at a serious disadvantage right from the start.  If machines are doing this heavy lifting (if you have 'em might as well use 'em) then the rest is cake.

[derekcohen]

Anybody starting the process of four-squaring rough lumber with a metal jack plane is putting themselves at a serious disadvantage right from the start. If machines are doing this heavy lifting (if you have 'em might as well use 'em) then the rest is cake.

Hi Charles

The Stanley #5 was designed to be used this way. It's a lightish plane. Certainly, Christopher Schwarz makes a big deal of this as his main jack. On the other hand, my preference is a wooden jack, one that I built. I have both types, but the woodie is preferred.

Hi Tony

What task do you want the plane for? Smoothing I am assuming.

A low angle is a good idea to achieve lower resistence when pushing the plane, however it may be neutralised by a wide blade.

David Charlesworth is responsible for making the #5 1/2 popular as a "super smoother", however this only makes sense to me if one does all initial preparation on machines and your smoothing is now on pretty flat material (otherwise the plane will be levelling as well and not just smoothing). Likewise, a #5 for a smoother, while narrower, is still a long plane. Smoothing is best done with a shorter plane as it is distinct from levelling. Personally, I prefer a #3 to a #4, and you may do so as well. Unfortunately, Veritas do not (yet) offer one. I do not know if they will. I assume they shall. If so, it may be worth waiting for if another #4, albeit one with a low bed, is not a consideration.

Hi Arminius

Tthe 42 degree frog in the smoother does not tear out at all when you use the chipbreaker. I have a few more comments to add to my articles. One is to emphasise that the low angle frog requires a closer tolerance to set up than a higher angle frog, such as a 50 degree. My advice for most is to go for the 50 degree as it makes for easier options - use without the chipbreaker for most woods, and add the chipbreaker for difficult grain. The 42 degree frog will priduce a better surface finish, but it is not a beginner's choice. Sorry if that sounds big-headed, but it is trickier to set up than the 50, and not everyone works with complex hardwood.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[CStanford]

There is a Jim Kingshott video that cyrstallizes the differences between a wood and a metal jack better than words could ever do.

[Arminius]

Derek - that makes sense, harder to get the chipbreaker set correctly, but can be very effective when done.  To be honest, I have not tried using the 45 deg without the chipbreaker, and have no hands-on experience with BU angles below 45.    My first inclination is a sharper blade at 45, then try either 50 or 55, or one of the LA planes.

[Tony Wilkins]

Derek, 42* and a closely set chip breaker are what I had in mind for the smoothing/straightening task. I'm thinking I could maximize finish and ease of motion doing such.

Arminius, I do like wooden planes. I have a coffin smother and double iron jointer. I don't have a jack or scrub type plane.