matthew-s Posted January 26, 2015 Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 Hi. Planning to gel stain and varnish my project (birch lumber). I'm nearly done sanding the bare wood down to 220. Two questions: 1. Did I sand too far for gel stain? The jar of General Finishes stain I purchased today calls for sanding between 120 and 150! Will the stain not stick? It's a light yellow/amberish color in case it matters. 2 Do I need to "dewhiskering" routine if using oil stain and varnish? I'm under the impression it's a process needed for water based products, but I'm not sure about oil. Thank again, Matt Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted January 26, 2015 Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 Not sure why you feel the need to stain a yellowish wood yellow, but yes, the gel stain will work fine. I imagine the instructions are saying you should sand to at least 120 or 150. Gel stains were formulated to work on top of already sealed wood, so it will surely work on raw wood, regardless of how high you sand. Oil-based stains and finishes don't raise the grain much if at all. Whatever fuzzies do pop up you can knock down during your sanding between coats of finish. Lightly with 320. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthew-s Posted January 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 Thanks Eric. The jar says "sand to 120 and no finer than 150". I have some 150 so I guess I can scuff up the work if I need to. The wood just feels so nice now As far as color, I'm not totally set. I would like it to look "warm" and show off the wood a bit. I need to do a test board with the two colors I have. The samples at the store are pretty rotten. I bet they sell a lot of finishing products on the basis of you needing to try them to know what they will look like! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted January 26, 2015 Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 Take my comments with a grain of salt...I'm not a fan of staining anything so my experience with stains is limited. I could be wrong about the higher grits not being a problem with the gel stains, but for the life of me I can't think of a reason why. Whiter woods like maple and birch will take on an amber color when finished with an oil-based finish. Definitely do test boards before jumping in head first with any of it...you may find stain unnecessary for the color you're looking to achieve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raefco Posted January 26, 2015 Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 If gel stains are formulated it work over sealed wood, they most likely want some texture to collect the color, this should not be a problem with un sealed un finished wood. This is just a guess as I have never used any gel stains. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 26, 2015 Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 You could try wiping the piece down with a damp cloth, not real wet just damp. Let it dry and sand 150 lightly to remove any raised grain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted January 26, 2015 Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 Sanding to far will burnish the material. Birch is probably going to blotch, id look into a blotch control or make your own even with a gel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthew-s Posted January 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 Maybe those of you who voted "no stain" are right. Here are two sample boards: 220 sanded and P180 sanded (albeit quickly, so not perfect). To me, the stain made them look "dirty". I'm looking for "warm". These don't have arm-R-seal on them. Could that be the problem? Maybe I need to look at shellac. Perhaps blonde or lemon, maybe orange? I've had a hard time finding good photos of what those colors look like on wood. Just lots of pictures of flakes. I'm also worried about durability, as its a table for family game night, but it sounds like a lot of things will stuck to Dewaxed shellac? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 Because 'a lot of things stick to dewaxed shellac', it makes an awesome sealer under other finishes. If you want extra protection, wipe on a coat or two of poly over the shellac. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthew-s Posted January 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 I don't think I've posted the overall view. Maybe that helps? The center field is to be covered in faux-leather mounted on hardy board. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 Natural stain has no colors in it, but it does add a certain warmth/ life to the grain. Testing on scraps is your best bet to find what looks good to you. Watco Danish oil is also a place to start, then coat with poly after the Watco has cured. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted January 31, 2015 Report Share Posted January 31, 2015 If this were me, I would first get the leather. Then find a color for your wood. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthew-s Posted January 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2015 If this were me, I would first get the leather. Then find a color for your wood. -Ace- Huh. That might be smart. I sort of felt the leather would be apparent after the finish, but there are far fewer choices there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted January 31, 2015 Report Share Posted January 31, 2015 Huh. That might be smart. I sort of felt the leather would be apparent after the finish, but there are far fewer choices there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Do you pick the carpet first, then the wall color. Or the wall color, then the carpet. See what I'm saying? -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 1, 2015 Report Share Posted February 1, 2015 As long as the carpet matches the drapes....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted February 1, 2015 Report Share Posted February 1, 2015 Ace, you are dating yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted February 1, 2015 Report Share Posted February 1, 2015 Ace, you are dating yourself. We are in an age of custom woven carpets and proprietary paints. Lots of cart vs horse conversations these days. Understand ..............but hey, the basics work. The carpet drape thing. I like hardwood floors....would the drape thing matter -Ace- 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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