New One Time Tool. Another Woodpecker Square


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On that topic, how do you change bits without adjusting the height?   Crazy wrenches to change below the table?   A lift that can take it back to the exact same spot?  

 

I posted this in the other thread but will post hear also. You don't, because you should not bottom out your router bits even if you can change without moving. Read the manual. Remember what Norm said at the beginning of each show. :)

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On that topic, how do you change bits without adjusting the height?   Crazy wrenches to change below the table?   A lift that can take it back to the exact same spot?  

 

You use a Z bend collet wrench. 

 

 

Reasons for not bottoming out a router bit. As you tighten the collet to secure the bit, the bit is pulled down. If you bottom out and tighten the collet, the bit can work its way out while spinning and be disastrous and horribly unsafe. 

The Sommerfeld bits come with a couple of compressible 1/2" diameter x 1/8" thick rubber grommets that allow you to tighten the bits down while still establishing a secure grab on the bit shank with the collet. 

 

(1/16 - 1/8" is the "recommended" amount you should pull a bit out of the collet before tightening down. 

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Yea I knew about not bottoming out and about the rubber grommet they provide. I watched one of his videos quite a while ago when I was consuming YouTube woodworking at a high rate, but I couldn't understand how to change the bits. I suspect an offset wrench was gonna be the answer...but I thought maybe I was just missing something or that was another cool feature of the lifts. I know most lifts let you easily change above the table, but then there's no way to go back down to the same spot, right?

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I know most lifts let you easily change above the table, but then there's no way to go back down to the same spot, right?

 

Wixey =)

 

http://wixey.com/remote/index.html

 

Set your bit height, set your readout to 0, then lift up the router, change your bit and then drop the router until the readout is 0. If you have a fine wheel on your router lift that makes it even easier.

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:)

And the rubber washer does not make for consistent height setting. The only real way is to just plain never remove the bit from the router. Its really easy to do by just using a stackable slot cutter. The steel spacers are about a dollar each and the nut is on top effectively giving you the same sort of set up on a tiny scale as a shaper. 

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All this discussion is starting to make two router tables sound like a cost effective approach as compared to setup time for switching between bits.

Hhhmmmm...plans for a twin offset, dual router, tablesaw extension wing router table, with double-sided adjustable fence and dust collection, formulating now.....

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Cope and stick, tongue and groove..... Lots of setups are best done in pairs . I set up 3 router tables when I build raised panel doors.

A router in a tablesaw wing works well for large panel raising.

I make test cuts and get all 3 the way I want them before I start routing my final parts.

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For matching stuff like cope and stick I just have them preset. I just ask the grinder what the setting is above 0 and thats what they are. If I forget to get the setting its not rocket science to figure it out and write it down. I adjust with the DRO or height gauge depending on the cutter. You can do the same with router bits and just catalog your settings. Every setting is measured from 0 anyways. Some I have made mirrored like T&G. Cut the Tongue flip the cutter and cut the groove in the opposite direction.

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On that topic, how do you change bits without adjusting the height?   Crazy wrenches to change below the table?   A lift that can take it back to the exact same spot?  

 

I like setup blocks...    Mill the profile in MDF or UHMW once you've hit the setup the first time, reset the bit and/or fences using the blocks.   Store the blocks with the bit for next time.

 

It takes a little bit of feel, and you'll need to gently move the bit by hand to test for top dead center, but once you have the knack, it's cake.  I have Wixey stuff, too, but I like blocks the best for interlocking profiles.

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I like setup blocks...    Mill the profile in MDF or UHMW once you've hit the setup the first time, reset the bit and/or fences using the blocks.   Store the blocks with the bit for next time.

 

It takes a little bit of feel, and you'll need to gently move the bit by hand to test for top dead center, but once you have the knack, it's cake.  I have Wixey stuff, too, but I like blocks the best for interlocking profiles.

 

No blocks needed just a piece of paper and a height gauge.

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