Attempting to repair broken mitered corner (mirror/frame)

[tunic]

I have a large and heavy mirror (approx 3x3). The corners are connected by dowelled miter joints. 

 

Not sure how it happened, but the back of one corner appears to have blown out: http://i.imgur.com/4LiIXwD.jpg

 

I could not make the corners flush with eachother due to the dowel overlapping the broken corner in previous image. I sawed off the intact miter dowel thinking I could simply attach a brace to the back and get everything flush again: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ckPY8A11PGk/Ucx0jO0j2xI/AAAAAAAAAX4/17dJiNtmbSY/s1600/assembly2.JPG(similar idea) 

 

Found that the force that I have to use in order to get the two corners flush again is substantial. I do not believe the brace was a good idea to begin with.

 

But now I'm not sure how to repair my mirror. As you can tell I am not familiar with woodworking or repair. Humbly hoping for advise if possible.

 

After being on Google for some time, thought this would be the closest to a feasible repair: http://www.ripsdiy.co.za/graphics/woodnailingmitre.jpgOr Drilling through corner, inserting dowel and glue. 

 

Additional bad picture of frame: http://i.imgur.com/NEAOt9r.jpg

 

Thank you.

[Coop]

Tunic, welcome to the forum. Folks here are just too nice so I know they're not ignoring you. I think most are like you and me and don't have a clue on this fix!

[Rvlewis]

If you have the broken piece, I'd first glue that back on. If not, I'd probably first make the repair, then use an epoxy wood filler to fill the hole and sand smooth.

As for the repair, I'd consider using a band clamp long enough to go around the perimeter, put some glue in the joint, then tighten the band clamp around the frame perimeter, which would hopefully pull the broken joint back together.

If the band wasn't strong enough, as I suppose it likely isn't, I'd probably just use two long bar clamps, one in the north-south direction and the other in the east-west. Alternately tighten them little by little until the blown-out joint was back together. Let dry overnight before removing clamps.

Use good quality glue like Titebond II or III. You don't really need the waterproof III, but to be honest I use it for pretty much anything I glue. Glue and decent clamps can be found at places like Home Depot.

I've done something similar before and found the joint glued up well and didn't really need another dowel to be strong enough.

[wtnhighlander]

I saw the post earlier, but the firewall at work blocked the image links. Now that I can see it, the damage is pretty severe. Do you hope to keep the stained wood finish? I think it is going to be difficult to repair and still look good, unless you are willing to paint.

The strongest option I can think of is to remove the damaged rail and make a new one. That may be outside your comfort zone.

Can you tell what is preventing the ends from coming together as they should? It looks like maybe the mirror is still in the frame, or at least the back is still attached. Remove the mirror and back, and the frame corner should mate up so that you can glue it. I suggest glue on what surface is left, hold it together with tape, clamps, string or whatever you have, then drill and countersink a screw hole through the damaged corner into the good one. Install the screw, then use wood putty to fill the damage and cover the screw. You can also glue in a dowel if you don't want to use a screw. In either case, the repair is going to be somewhat visible unless you paint over it.

Another, but more tedious option, is to saw out a square chunk around the damaged area, leaving as much of the mitered edge as possible. Cut a square if wood to fit the new opening, but long enough to extend past the miter. Glue in the patch, and once it is dry, trim the excess, using the original sections of the miter as a guide. Then put the miter back together as described above. This avoids using putty, and is a bit stronger, but won't really look any better.

[Anhigginb]

I was thinking along the same lines as

I saw the post earlier, but the firewall at work blocked the image links. Now that I can see it, the damage is pretty severe. Do you hope to keep the stained wood finish? I think it is going to be difficult to repair and still look good, unless you are willing to paint.

The strongest option I can think of is to remove the damaged rail and make a new one. That may be outside your comfort zone.

Can you tell what is preventing the ends from coming together as they should? It looks like maybe the mirror is still in the frame, or at least the back is still attached. Remove the mirror and back, and the frame corner should mate up so that you can glue it. I suggest glue on what surface is left, hold it together with tape, clamps, string or whatever you have, then drill and countersink a screw hole through the damaged corner into the good one. Install the screw, then use wood putty to fill the damage and cover the screw. You can also glue in a dowel if you don't want to use a screw. In either case, the repair is going to be somewhat visible unless you paint over it.

Another, but more tedious option, is to saw out a square chunk around the damaged area, leaving as much of the mitered edge as possible. Cut a square if wood to fit the new opening, but long enough to extend past the miter. Glue in the patch, and once it is dry, trim the excess, using the original sections of the miter as a guide. Then put the miter back together as described above. This avoids using putty, and is a bit stronger, but won't really look any better.

I was thinking along the same lines as this; once glued put a screw threw one side into the other good piece. Just be sure to drill pilot holes so you don't split the frame. If you counter sink the screws you could fill with cheap button plugs like these; http://t.homedepot.com/p/General-Tools-3-8-in-Button-Plugs-312038/202252105. You could even add another plug to the adjoining face and two more at each of the other three corners. Little bit of dark stain on the plugs before you install them with CA (super glue) and you may not have to refinish the original piece at all, and it'll look like they were always supposed to be there.

Also, in a pinch I've used those ratcheting tie down straps wrapped around the frame as a band clamp. They are a lot cheaper than bar clamps if you don't intend to keep woodworking. Just don't overdo the preasure and put something between the metal parts and the wood to keep from banging it up.

Good luck, let us know how it comes out.

[tim0625]

+1 on what they said....just make sure you have it pulled as tight as you can get it and then one or two long screws

[RPCV_Woodworker]

How old is the frame? Did you happen to move to a much more region recently, or put this in a kitchen/bathroom that gets steam in it on a daily basis?

[wdwerker]

Did anyone mention to remove the mirror before clamping? Too much pressure, frame flexes , mirror breaks !

[tim0625]

NO one mentioned it.......I HOPED I would have remembered it.....only one of us really knows if he remembered it or not!

Tunic?

BTW Tunic....it's your first post! Que the music.....SING Steve!!!

Welcome....here, no questions are dumb, we TALK about working wood more than we actually do, and no one is as smart as they seem.....although I suspect Steve can fly.

Still fun though!

[wtnhighlander]

It looks like maybe the mirror is still in the frame, or at least the back is still attached. Remove the mirror and back, and the frame corner should mate up so that you can glue it.

I knew it....no reads replies more than 25 words long...

[wdwerker]

OP hasn't been online since 1/28 at 4:50 pm so we might be spinning our wheels.

And yes, I just skimmed over the longer posts cause I know how I would have fixed it and almost everyone was headed in the right direction !