4 sided roof


duckkisser

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Duck, it should be basic geometry + pythagoras.

Angle through the thickness = 360 / # of sides / 2.

Angle across the width = square root of a squared + b squared, where a is the width of the board, b is the difference between the long point and short point of the angle.

Does that sound correct? Maybe some of the builder guys have a simpler method.

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If I was building a house the roof would be figured off of the rise to run or what is referred to as the pitch which is how much rise in a 12' run, you have heard the term the house has a 4/12 pitch  the cuts are made with a framing square the hip cut of a 4/12 because of the angle of 2 pitches converging would 4/17. But if I was building a box I would cut some cardboard tape it together to form the pitch draw the line from the outside of the eave to the point on the ridge connect the dots there is your angle set your bevel gauge and, get busy. No math involved.

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Well, I made a box like that a llloooonnngggg time ago so (Dec 2007) I know that it can be done. I honestly don't know what angle that I cut the miters but, I think it is just a 45.

The pitch is what ever you want it measured on the center line at the base to the point on the top. It hast to be GREATER than 1/2 of the base line to form the pitch.

The base on this box lid is 8" and the pitch is (about) 1-1/2" and the slope measured on the center line is 4-1/2".

 

 

IMG_1470_zpsca1cf8d9.jpg

 

 

Black mesquite. Just in case you wanted to know. :)

 

Rog

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https://www.stoneforest.com/gardenstore/img/products/Craftsman_Lantern-1246570587-detail.jpg

 

roger is closest basically this is what i want to make,

 

 

my bottom boxes pieces are 3 1/4 by 3 1/4 but i dont think that will effect the roof except for the size of my sides.  

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Duck, half the width of the base and also the height give you two legs of a triangle. With two legs you can figure hypotenuse and interior angles. With those angles you can calculate the hip miter values. In order to get more specific, we need how tall and wide of a cap you want.

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OK, I got out my "Smoley's  Four Combined Tables" book to give you some dimensions.

 

If you want to use 30 degrees for a pitch and your base is 4", that would mean that half of that is 2" and at 30 degrees your rise would be 1-5/32" and your slope would be 2-5/16". So you make a triangle with a 4" total base and a distance @ CL of 2-5/16 and when you square up the four sides, you will get a 30 degree slope on your roof. 

If you have another pitch in mind, please post it and I will look it up. If you have a different size for the four sides of the roof, please post it and I will give you exact (within 1/32") dimensions for the four triangles. 

Always happy to help.

 

Rog

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This is a timely topic.  My wife has been on me to make a light fixture to go above our dining table.  We decided on something that looks similar to a pool table light, or one of those vent hoods that go over a range in a kitchen island.

 

I've been putting it off because I hadn't had the first clue on how to determine the angles and cuts on the angled "roof" like pieces.

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If at all possible the easiest way to deal with a compound miter is to cut it at the angle it is going to be, the same as it's easier to cut crown molding with it standing up in the miter saw than it is lying flat.  Then all you have to do is cut 45 degree miters.  So if you want a 12 degree slope, make a 12 degree wedge to put under your stock and whatever the heck that compound miter angle is supposed to be is magically done for you.

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Mathias has a table on his website that's intended for figuring the bevel angle to cut when making laminated bowls.  I think it would have an application here.  Basically you have to figure the number of sides (4 in this case) the pitch and the rise and the table will tell you what angle to set your miter gauge and blade to.  I have a copy of it somewhere.  Used it to make a six sided top for something.  I think it's in PDF format.

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  • 2 years later...

When framing a hip roof, change the 12, in the roof pitch, to 17 on your framing square, and it works out just right.   I don't see why it couldn't be scaled down.

As an example, if you're framing an 8 in 12 hip roof, step off the rafter lengths with the square set for 8 in 12, and step off the same number of steps for the hip rafter with the square set at 8 in 17.  Even us simple minded carpenters can do it.

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  • 3 months later...

This is the Power of the internet.   Info at your fingertips when needed.  This is so so valuable for me right now.  Been looking for it for "2 hours"   

Good advise like this never gets old. Please keep this thread for future woodworking amateurs like me 10  or 100 years down the line...

Thank you for everything who chipped in!

 

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On 2/2/2015 at 4:26 AM, wtnhighlander said:

Duck, it should be basic geometry + pythagoras.

Angle through the thickness = 360 / # of sides / 2.

Angle across the width = square root of A squared + B squared, where;
A is the width of the board,
B is the difference between the long point and short point of the angle.

1

SQR (A^2 + B ^2)

Thank You, I think this would work just thinking back many years too long forgotten maths classes.
Going to test it in a short while

=========================================

Nope - Did not work.  But found another article.  and went with that.

 

Basically just Make the 3 Sides all equal in length (can be any length as long as all three sides are the same),  Then cut the 3 sides of each triangle at 35.5 deg. (Don't ask me why), but hey,  it works

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