wtnhighlander Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 I finally got started on the picture frame and mat that I discussed in another post. I have confirmed that the medium is graphite pencil on mylar, so this somewhat unusual arrangement should be in no danger of absorbing tanins from the wood. The material is walnut for the frame, and poplar for the 'mat'. Here is my first milling: The gray pieces in front are some color samples for my wife to look at.They gray is a no-go, but she is still undecided on what to use for the mat. Plans are to use Watco Danish oil (walnut) to deepen the color on the frame parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 Definitely gone look nice. What type of joinery will you be using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 I failed to take photos along the way, but here is the assembled mat. It has a rabbet on the inside edge to simulate a double mat. The rabbet was cut at the tablesaw, with the pieces on edge, held against the fence with featherboards. The miters were also cut on the TS, using a miter sled. The pieces are only 1/4" thick, so I couldn't really pull the miters as tight as I wanted with clamps. You may notice the seams are not quite perfect. I am considering a tiny V-groove along each joint to make it look more intentional. If you can't hide it, make it a design feature, right? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 Definitely gone look nice. What type of joinery will you be using? Miters all the way, I'm afraid. My boldest move here is just making a wooden mat, rather than using mat board. I might put reinforcing splines at the corners, or might not. I haven't built a sled for that, yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 OK, we decided to keep the frame minimalist to avoid detracting from the artwork. I started turning boards into frame moldings, aimed at something almost as sparse as a typical diploma frame. Here are some pieces cut to size: Here is my saw setup to cut the inside rabbet: ... and this is a finished rabbet. My plan is to run these past the blade once more, shaving about a 3* angle on the inside and outside edges of the front face only. I may cut the miters first, to avoid having those non-square edges throw my cuts out of kilter. Anyone notice I made 5 pieces for a 4-sided frame? Have to have at least one to screw up! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 The mat might be a challenge. I would be tempted to use a floating tenon in a 1/16" (thin kerf) groove in the 1/4" mat miters. Then use 1/8" splines in the frame. Will the mat be glued to the inside of the frame The jig for cutting the splines in the frame is super easy to make using a scrap 2 x 4 and piece of scrap ply. Cut the groove on the ts with a zero ci. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 Looking good Ross. Not that it matters but, I agree with the decision to keep the frame simple. When it comes to B&W artwork an unpretentious frame "showcases" the art rather than stealing the show. The mat looks great! I'm looking forward to seeing it come together. D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 Thanks for the kind words, guys! Coop, I don't have a thin kerf blade to make a mortise in the mat miters. I am considering either cutting shallow dadoes across the back of the miter, and gluing it a half-lap reinforcing piece, OR, gluing some very thin veneer across the back. The back side won't show, so it doesn't have to be pretty. I may skip it altogether, as the glued miters have turned out stonger than I expected. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 Go, big guy, you're doing good. Can't wait for the finished product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rapid Roger Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 Thanks for the kind words, guys! Coop, I don't have a thin kerf blade to make a mortise in the mat miters. I am considering either cutting shallow dadoes across the back of the miter, and gluing it a half-lap reinforcing piece, OR, gluing some very thin veneer across the back. The back side won't show, so it doesn't have to be pretty. I may skip it altogether, as the glued miters have turned out stonger than I expected. I couldn't agree with you more. The splines on the back in a dado have to be the strongest thing you can do to beef up a miter joint. Of course, yours can only be 1/8" deep but, much easier to accomplish than any other way of doing it. I have seen them done on the front using a contrasting wood and even two dadoes. In your case, I would keep them on the back for the simpler look. Rog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 Digging it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 No photos today. Its too cold in the shop to do more that adjust my miter sled in preparation for cutting the frame. Thinking ahead a bit...we want the walnut frame really dark. The walnut cutting board I made before Christmas looks awesome with its mineral oil & beeswax finish. The color is a deep, rich, coffee brown, with hints of purple. Anyone have an idea how to achieve that look with a finish that doesn't need renewal every couple of months? I figure I'll end up with walnut watco danish oil, but my limited experience with it tells me it won't look the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted February 6, 2015 Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 Try the Watco on some same wood scrap and also try the Arm-R-Seal if you have it. I think you'll be pleased with both, after sanding to 180. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rapid Roger Posted February 6, 2015 Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 If you like the finish on your cutting board, use it on the frame too. Just how much abuse will a picture frame get? I doubt that a touchup will ever be needed. I don't even finish some frames with anything but BLO and a coat of shellac. Rog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 6, 2015 Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 I have used walnut colored Watco to darken up sapwood . But on your frame I think natural Watco will be all you need. Watco dries faster than BLO ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 Ok, so I wound up gluing some scraps of home made 'veneer' across the back of the mat miters, for a little extra support. I also glued up the frame, after cutting a 10* bevel on both sides of the front face. Please ignore the clutter; I'm working while still in 'garage mode' today. My wife is happy with the results. In fact, after seeing it all put together and held up to the wall, she even decided the natural color and hrain patterns of the poplar mat look good as-is. So now the first coat of Watco is drying in the frame, and a coat of clear acrylic has been sprayed on the mat. Finished photo soon! Now to decide on hanging hardware, and buy a glass... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 It looks great Ross! Maybe consider getting anti-glare glass. It's a bit more expensive than run-of-the-mill glass, but worth it imo. UV protection isn't important for a B&W drawing, but may be included in the anti-glare picture glass. D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Kohl Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 Like the idea for a wooded mat. I have made a couple 3 part frames but never that big has me thinking. Nice idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 Frame and mat are finshed, but I just bave a temporary plain glass in it at the moment. Wife has asked that I hold off on posting a photo until the anti-glare glass is in, because it is all but impossible to make a clear photo with this glass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Well, enough waiting around...seems like I'm never going to find time to pick up that non-glare glass. Here's a rather lousy shot of the thing in situ, just to prove it is actually finished. Perspective is wonky, since I had to shoot from one side to avoid reflections. Can you spot the source of the arrow? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 That's really pretty man, great job. Best way to tie a bow on a project is to get it out of the shop and into living space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Thanks Vinny. I was very pleased with the way the slight taper made the frame rails seem much more elegant than square stock would. Wife likes the poplar 'mat', but I'm still on the fence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 It looks great, glass or no glass. Nicely done Ross. I've made many "simple" frames from rough barn wood. Yours really stands out! I mean it...not just the usual "good job" that is obligatory on a public forum. Frames like yours sell really well at "craft fairs" and local "art shows". Priced correctly, you can sell a couple dozen in a weekend. Just a thought... Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Thanks Dave. As slow as I work, it would take me a year to produce enough for one weekend! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 The frame really turned out nice. My only experience with non glare glass was with a 1 1/2" deep shadow box containing a clock. It did the opposite of what I had hoped. You had to be exactly in front of it to view the hands. I found out later it was due to the depth of the box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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