Simple picture frame


wtnhighlander

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I finally got started on the picture frame and mat that I discussed in another post. I have confirmed that the medium is graphite pencil on mylar, so this somewhat unusual arrangement should be in no danger of absorbing tanins from the wood.

The material is walnut for the frame, and poplar for the 'mat'. Here is my first milling:

c9be50259569d5dcb1266b3df13e229d.jpg

The gray pieces in front are some color samples for my wife to look at.They gray is a no-go, but she is still undecided on what to use for the mat. Plans are to use Watco Danish oil (walnut) to deepen the color on the frame parts.

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I failed to take photos along the way, but here is the assembled mat. It has a rabbet on the inside edge to simulate a double mat.

The rabbet was cut at the tablesaw, with the pieces on edge, held against the fence with featherboards.

The miters were also cut on the TS, using a miter sled.

5eac49ef5aa4f78e092ab662d7bcd4d4.jpg

The pieces are only 1/4" thick, so I couldn't really pull the miters as tight as I wanted with clamps. You may notice the seams are not quite perfect.

I am considering a tiny V-groove along each joint to make it look more intentional. If you can't hide it, make it a design feature, right?

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OK, we decided to keep the frame minimalist to avoid detracting from the artwork. I started turning boards into frame moldings, aimed at something almost as sparse as a typical diploma frame. Here are some pieces cut to size:

ece30d5d213c1ceb3f2d9cc49b61fef8.jpg

Here is my saw setup to cut the inside rabbet:

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... and this is a finished rabbet.

e95f17f8daf019f1d0bc296be1ba096f.jpg

My plan is to run these past the blade once more, shaving about a 3* angle on the inside and outside edges of the front face only. I may cut the miters first, to avoid having those non-square edges throw my cuts out of kilter.

Anyone notice I made 5 pieces for a 4-sided frame? Have to have at least one to screw up!

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The mat might be a challenge. I would be tempted to use a floating tenon in a 1/16" (thin kerf) groove in the 1/4" mat miters. Then use 1/8" splines in the frame.

Will the mat be glued to the inside of the frame

The jig for cutting the splines in the frame is super easy to make using a scrap 2 x 4 and piece of scrap ply.

Cut the groove on the ts with a zero ci.

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Looking good Ross.

Not that it matters but, I agree with the decision to keep the frame simple.

When it comes to B&W artwork an unpretentious frame "showcases" the art rather than stealing the show.

The mat looks great!

I'm looking forward to seeing it come together.
D

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Thanks for the kind words, guys!

Coop, I don't have a thin kerf blade to make a mortise in the mat miters. I am considering either cutting shallow dadoes across the back of the miter, and gluing it a half-lap reinforcing piece, OR, gluing some very thin veneer across the back. The back side won't show, so it doesn't have to be pretty. I may skip it altogether, as the glued miters have turned out stonger than I expected.

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Thanks for the kind words, guys!

Coop, I don't have a thin kerf blade to make a mortise in the mat miters. I am considering either cutting shallow dadoes across the back of the miter, and gluing it a half-lap reinforcing piece, OR, gluing some very thin veneer across the back. The back side won't show, so it doesn't have to be pretty. I may skip it altogether, as the glued miters have turned out stonger than I expected.

 

 

I couldn't agree with you more.

The splines on the back in a dado have to be the strongest thing you can do to beef up a miter joint. Of course, yours can only be 1/8" deep but, much easier to accomplish than any other way of doing it.

I have seen them done on the front using a contrasting wood and even two dadoes. In your case, I would keep them on the back for the simpler look.

 

Makingapictureframe021_zpscdaaba15.jpg

 

Rog

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No photos today. Its too cold in the shop to do more that adjust my miter sled in preparation for cutting the frame.

Thinking ahead a bit...we want the walnut frame really dark. The walnut cutting board I made before Christmas looks awesome with its mineral oil & beeswax finish. The color is a deep, rich, coffee brown, with hints of purple.

Anyone have an idea how to achieve that look with a finish that doesn't need renewal every couple of months? I figure I'll end up with walnut watco danish oil, but my limited experience with it tells me it won't look the same.

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Ok, so I wound up gluing some scraps of home made 'veneer' across the back of the mat miters, for a little extra support.

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I also glued up the frame, after cutting a 10* bevel on both sides of the front face.

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Please ignore the clutter; I'm working while still in 'garage mode' today.

My wife is happy with the results. In fact, after seeing it all put together and held up to the wall, she even decided the natural color and hrain patterns of the poplar mat look good as-is.

So now the first coat of Watco is drying in the frame, and a coat of clear acrylic has been sprayed on the mat. Finished photo soon!

Now to decide on hanging hardware, and buy a glass...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, enough waiting around...seems like I'm never going to find time to pick up that non-glare glass. Here's a rather lousy shot of the thing in situ, just to prove it is actually finished. Perspective is wonky, since I had to shoot from one side to avoid reflections.

Can you spot the source of the arrow?

482d657583e623e029089dc316d615de.jpg

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It looks great, glass or no glass.

Nicely done Ross.

 

I've made many "simple" frames from rough barn wood.

Yours really stands out!

I mean it...not just the usual "good job" that is obligatory on a public forum.

 

Frames like yours sell really well at "craft fairs" and local "art shows".

Priced correctly, you can sell a couple dozen in a weekend.

Just a thought...

 

Dave

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The frame really turned out nice.
My only experience with non glare glass was with a 1 1/2" deep shadow box containing a clock. It did the opposite of what I had hoped. You had to be exactly in front of it to view the hands. I found out later it was due to the depth of the box. 

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