BrandonD Posted February 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 I spent last night going over the plans from Benchcrafted and comparing them against the guild build plans, since there are a couple differences with the new hardware. Of all the differences the only one I can't understand is there is a 1/8th" difference in the width of the tops (not the 4" thickness, the width of the finished slabs). IIRC the guild's was the smaller one. I don't think it matters so long as I take all my measures from the same side(s), but I'm going to look some more before I finish milling the top pieces to get my final width. I laid out where all of my 8/4 parts are coming from. If all goes right I'll have three untouched boards -- including my widest 13 7/8" board. I'll probably cut and rough mill my top pieces tonight. I'll leave the other parts alone for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 The discrepancy in the width of the slabs is due to the change that Marc and Aaron made so that the gap in the top is large enough to accommodate the head of a parallel clamp. A change that I'm very grateful they made...I do it all the time. I would recommend it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenaqua Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 I wonder if it is because of the gap between the slabs. I believe the gap dimension has updated to reflect the wider clamp on the new style of Bessy clamps. I could be off on that... I realised last night that my router (bosch 1617) only can plunge about 2" total. I believe we are going to plunge even deeper than 2" for the screw cavity. Trying to figure out how to handle that issue but I don't want to route partial and finish with hand tools..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrandonD Posted February 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 The discrepancy in the width of the slabs is due to the change that Marc and Aaron made so that the gap in the top is large enough to accommodate the head of a parallel clamp. A change that I'm very grateful they made...I do it all the time. I would recommend it. Ah, thanks. I'll go with the guild's. I wonder if it is because of the gap between the slabs. I believe the gap dimension has updated to reflect the wider clamp on the new style of Bessy clamps. I could be off on that... I realised last night that my router (bosch 1617) only can plunge about 2" total. I believe we are going to plunge even deeper than 2" for the screw cavity. Trying to figure out how to handle that issue but I don't want to route partial and finish with hand tools..... I've got the same router, so you're telling me I'll have the same problem I saw someone use a router collet extension the other day. I've never used one and don't own one but if what you're saying is true I'll probably be a proud owner shortly. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=router+collet+extension&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Arouter+collet+extension Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenaqua Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 Wouldn't the collet interfere with the inside edge of the cavity? I guess if the bit used had a diameter larger than the collet it would work. That makes me wonder how Marc did it with the bit he recommended. His is 3" long with 1.5" of cutter. Part of that 3" needs to go into the collet. He also sneaks up to the edge to do a single final pass but with 1.5" of cutter it would still require multiple passes right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 No way I would use a bit extension , especially hand held. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrandonD Posted February 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 Looks like the screw cavity is 2 1/16" deep. With a 1 1/2" cutter length I don't see how he could've made it in one pass up against that edge of the cavity. Although with the edge guide I don't think it matters if you have to take it in two passes. Just for those who it may not be clear to, we are talking about the very edge of the cavity, Marc had already excavated the bulk of the cavity taking about 1/2" off with each pass but left a tiny bit on the edge of the cavity so he could go right up to his line with one pass. As long as we can have at least 2 1/16" bit exposed beneath the base plate I think we will be fine for the actual excavation. I have the Whiteside version of that bit, which has a longer length (3 1/2", same cutter length though). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenaqua Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 Brandon, I have read many of the posts regarding this bench and I have not seen this subject brought up yet. It is an even bigger issue if the bench is thicker than 4". I was planning on being around 4 1/4" at this stage and then reduce the top to about 4" during final flattening. I did see the people Marc recommended make a longer bit of 4" total with 2" of cutting length. That might be a suitable bit. I really am stuck with this and don't want to mill any lumber until I can get my head wrapped around this. The 3.5" bit you mention might get you there. I agree that the "final" pass Marc mentions may actually be several passes. I wonder how his collet wasn't in the way when he got to the bottom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Hein Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 Plunge out the waste before you do the glue up of the top. I've got a top over 5" thick and that's how I did mine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Hein Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 Correction. For the tail vise, you install it offset from the bottom of the slab. I had no issues there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrandonD Posted February 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 Hi Green. You got me nervous enough to head out there and check to be sure. My 3 1/2" long bit will protude 2 1/8" from the base and have 1" in the collet with the plunge all the way down. I feel this is safe for me especially as I'll creep up on the depth so I won't be taking off a lot with a single pass. I don't know that I would do it with only 1/2" in it that the recommended bit would give though. As for candianhoser's suggestions... the Benchcrafted instructions indicate to reference from the top of the slab if using a bench that isn't 4" thick, although they say it's to ensure the handwheel stays below the surface. Obviously you can do it lower for >4" thick tops if candianhoser has. Perhaps routing it out before glue-up would be a good solution for you as he suggested. I got my tops rough cut using the bandsaw into about 4 1/2" wide. I wanted to end today with them rough milled, let them rest 24 hours and do a final mill + glue up tomorrow night, but after jointing one face I decided I better replace the jointer knives as they're dull! Not to mention the groves caused by some knicks from the previous owner. I haven't replaced those knives since I bought it used off CL about a year ago. So it looks like I'll be on hold until at least Tuesday-Wednesday as I wait for Amazon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 So Brandon where in the instruction or Marc's videos are you worried about the plunge depth? I'm ready to start studying a lot more now so I want to keep an eye out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrandonD Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Mike -- seems the concern is mostly from Greenaqua. It's in regards to removing the material from the bottom of the front slab for the vise screw. The plunge base for his router, which happens to be the same as mine, only allows him to plunge so far. The instructions call for a 2 1/16" deep cavity. I can get there in my case with about 1" of the bit in the collet, but my bit is 1/2" longer than the recommended bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenaqua Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Yes, Brandon is right on. I was/am concerned about routing out the cavity for the tail vise. I was planning on making my bench a bit thicker because all the boards that I have are 6" + and I figure instead of wasting that wood to get it down to the 4" thick top why not keep as much thickness as possible. I started to look into it and realized I can't plunge more than a couple of inches with my router and even if I could plunge an unlimited amount, the bit is only so long so then the collet will interfere with the side of the mortise wall that you are creating as you get deeper. I ordered the 4" long bit that has 2" of cutting length from Eagle America (106-0845) yesterday and I am going to see how deep I can get with that bit but I think I will now be able to go a little thicker than 4" with that setup. I also ordered myself a Festool Domino just because I don't want to be worried about alignment during glue up and I can use it on future projects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrandonD Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Nice purchases! Jointer knives should be in tomorrow and I'll be back on track. Pleased to see my cut boards haven't moved much over the last couple days -- a lot of them were cut two from a larger board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Hein Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Greenbriar, in this case the bench crafted instructions call for measuring from the slab bottom. See my pictures elsewhere in this thread. My top is 5 1/2" thick and it worked for me in this case. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Hein Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 That was meant to say Greenaqua. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 I think it would be cool if all three of us started a project journal on our builds, especially since we hijacked the crap out of Brandon's thread Greenaqua - if your boards are 7" wide you could edge glue them to get three 4.5" boards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenaqua Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 Hoser, for clarification what are the vertical dimensions of your cavity (see attached picture)? A= B= C= Note that it is dimension B that we are talking about needing to route. Thanks (revised image for correction per Hoser's insight below) 2-24-15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Hein Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 I'll have to measure later tonight, but the diagram you show has the bottom of the slab facing up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenaqua Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 You are right bottoms up, my bad. I guess you're saying the 2 1/16 can be the key number if the top is thicker than 4" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Hein Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 Yes. That's right. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrandonD Posted March 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 I got my new knives in and wasn't overly happy with the setup so I ordered the Oneway Multi Gauge -- should arrive mid week. Gives me a reason to let the wood wait another week too. Of course, I'll get to the planer next and decide to replace those knives, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrandonD Posted March 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 I managed to get my jointer tuned and set on Wednesday and did all of my rough milling for the top last night. Plan to final mill everything tomorrow and get a slab up in clamps, maybe the other slab that night... if not Sunday (I don't have enough parallel clamps to do both at the same time.) I emptied my DC bin somewhat early on last night, neglected to keep an eye on it and I filled it up again... pretty sure my filter stack is clogged with chips, so I'll be cleaning that today or tomorrow first thing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Hein Posted March 6, 2015 Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 You'll have plenty more refills ahead. I didn't even have a dust collector when I did mine, only a shop vac connected to my jointer. My planer just dumped to the floor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.