Hugh Howard Posted February 6, 2015 Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 I saw a thread on another forum where a user suggested a larger slab up front. I think the idea of roughly two 12" pieces that can go through a planer is cool, but if you are willing to pass on that feature, which I think I am, would it be better to have a less symmetrical set up - say a 16" slab and an 8" one? It seems like it might give more flexibility when using the planing stop in the split, but I'm sure those of you who have actually built one would know better than I would. (And if we did need to use a planer, I'm sure Shannon wouldn't mind if we all showed up to plane that 16" slab on his giant planer since he loves the sound of power tools at work, right?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted February 6, 2015 Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 I'm a hybrid guy heavier on the machines, so I don't even use my gap-stop for planing. My favorite feature about the split-top is all the clamping possibilities it opens up. You would lose some of that if you changed the size of the slabs...I think having it dead center offers the most options. If you pushed it farther back, yes you could use it for slightly longer boards, but the downside will be everything will be farther away, so I think it may be less comfortable to use in general. When planing small parts you'll be all bent over trying to reach that far across the bench. I do the vast majority of my planing with the stock in one of my vises. When I built mine, I had all kinds of ideas of how I could improve the design...but luckily I came to my senses at some point and just built according to the plans. I haven't found any limitations or major problems after almost three years of use, but I'm pretty sure if I would have made changes, I would have some regrets. I try not to think too much...it only gets you in trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barron Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 I agree with Eric, I am not sure the change would buy you much. I've planed table tops on my Roubo that were actuall slightly wider than the bench and I've planed pieces as narrow as 1/2" (the square dogs make good stops for really narrow work) without trouble. For the wide stuff I just use a 24" plane stop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 I think if anything, scale the whole top down to fit your shop. My workspace is quite adequate with a bench that is only 60" x 22", no split. If I wanted a lengthwise planing stop, I'd attach it to side opposite where I normally work. You really only need heavy bench space as far as your arms can reach. Anything bigger is just holding up some part of the project you aren't working on at the moment. That job can be done just as well by some horses and plywood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
popper Posted February 8, 2015 Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 If I had to do it again, I would not have the split at all. Now for me I am a hand tool user. The split top traps the shavings with the gap stop and covers the shelf. So at the end of each I have spend time picking shavings out of the gap stop. I have yet to use it for clamping but I'm guessing that more to do with the fact I have another table I use for glue ups and dry fittings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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