rodger. Posted February 9, 2015 Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 I normally use a 25 degree bevel on my bevel up planes for general duty. I was thinking of moving up to a 38 degree bevel for smoothing tasks on face/edge grain with my LA jack (bumps me up to York Pitch with an effective cut at 50 degrees). Is it worth the 50 dollars and effort? Should I just stick to the 25 and save the money for something else? The good news is that the blade also fits the jointer I have. I don't often work figured woods, but I do work a lot with ash, which has reversing grain. I also work a lot with cherry, sometimes walnut, sometimes poplar, and occassionally in softwood (pine). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted February 9, 2015 Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 Pug, you barely need any hone at all to secondary bevel the nose of the iron. Play with that and leave the primary grind in my opinion. If you want to leave it steep, you will get many hones before needing to grind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted February 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 Pug, you barely need any hone at all to secondary bevel the nose of the iron. Play with that and leave the primary grind in my opinion. If you want to leave it steep, you will get many hones before needing to grind. Good suggestion. I do add a secondary bevel on all my planes, and i think its in the ball park of 2 degrees (6 o'clock position on the MK2). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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