Greene and Greene Finish


SD_Andy

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All,

I am a huge fan of the Greene and Greene style and I've tried several times to use the technique the I've seen described by Darrell Peart on multiple occasions.   7 parts General Finishes orange dye stain mixed with 4 parts medium brown.   The probably is I just can't seem to get consistent results with the water based dye stains.   It just seems like there is a lot of room for error with the reactivation of the water based stain, the stain drying to quickly , etc.  On top of that I would rather not have to raise the grain and sand again before I apply the stain.   

 

Has anyone experimented with oil based stains to get a similar look?   What are the cons of using the oil based finish over the water based dye stains?    Are you willing to share any examples of your work?  What mix did you use to achieve the results?

 

Thanks,

Andy

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Andy - I just finished one recently (sort of).  A G&G bench.  Not a dye, but hopefully might give your eye some compare and contrast.

 

Rubbed on Watco Teak Oil...about 8 months ago maybe.  Just finally kid-protected it over the weekend with a few coats of General Finishes High Perf (water based) via HVLP.  The water-based top coat didn't affect the color at all.

 

I looked through several photos I took of the bench to find the closest representation of the actual color....this photo only shows half of it, but it's the truest to what my eye sees in real life.

 

Ignore the rocker - it's the half-a-bench on the right.

post-15261-0-01114600-1423605674_thumb.j

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BTW - I just read that Bob Lang article that PB mentioned above.  The recipe was taken from an archived letter from Charles Green to the Thorson House...

 

HOW COOL IS THAT!?  

 

It does look pretty straightforward, as long as you don't mind wording with Potassium Dichromate.   Beats dealing with fuzzy raised grain.

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Vinny, that looks like a great project but it's much lighter than and not as red/orange as I am looking for.

 

To the others, I'm not interested in messing with the Potassium Dichromate.  

 

I'm really looking for an oil based solution.

 

The method is an oil based solution. The potash is used as a wash to pre darken the mahogany. Its not as bad as many make it out to be. You can get it and the recipe for mixing at shellac.net or .com don't remember which.

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I did some more research on Potassium Dichromate, and the internet of course ranged from "no more dangerous than bleach" to "will kill you on the spot".

 

So I reached out to my father in law, a PhD of Chemistry and a working chemist of 60+ years.  Not gospel of course, but here's the candid opinion of an expert.  Keep in mind of course, he's family.

 

I would not use it in a home environment.  I assume you read the MSDS sheet and noted that it is a class A1 carcinogen.  I would only use it in a chemical lab with facilities for working with and disposing of carcinogens.  In the old days (mainly 1950s -1970s) we used solutions of it in conc. sulfuric acid known as "cleaning solution" to remove the residue from glassware (flasks).  The carcinogenic properties were not known back then. 

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I did some more research on Potassium Dichromate, and the internet of course ranged from "no more dangerous than bleach" to "will kill you on the spot".

 

So I reached out to my father in law, a PhD of Chemistry and a working chemist of 60+ years.  Not gospel of course, but here's the candid opinion of an expert.  Keep in mind of course, he's family.

 

I would not use it in a home environment.  I assume you read the MSDS sheet and noted that it is a class A1 carcinogen.  I would only use it in a chemical lab with facilities for working with and disposing of carcinogens.  In the old days (mainly 1950s -1970s) we used solutions of it in conc. sulfuric acid known as "cleaning solution" to remove the residue from glassware (flasks).  The carcinogenic properties were not known back then. 

 

Ive been using it on cherry cabinets for decades and have had more L&I inspections than I care to count. As long as its treated like all the other solvents and solvent finishes there are no additional requirements. If you use solvents in your finishing then you should already be prepared to use Potassium Dichromate.

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Just an FYI, what I posted was purely informational and to illustrate another perspective. I have no opinion on the subject.

 

I just didn't want to see it be blown out of proportion. It can be had at any decent photograph supply place, ceramic supply place or even amazon. Personally I buy it at Adorama and B&H photo. Don't eat it, drink it, snort it or rub it on your body parts sort of common sense.

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I've used the 7 pts Orange and 4 pts medium brown recipe now on several G&G projects and never had a problem. I think the key is consistent sanding on all pieces. I sand to 220 grit before applying the dye. There is some variance of color and density across African Mahogany stock that can affect the outcome. I try to choose boards that are similar in color and weight. I find that African Mahogany takes dye quite well.

I'm working on a G&G inspired trestle table now. I'll post some pictures in a couple weeks when completed.

I agree that the potassium dichromate stuff looks a little unsafe. Also, that technique might be more tricky in achieving consistent results than the dye.

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