rodger. Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 Starting a new project this week. Early this week I mapped out some layout, and got some rough dimenions. Then I went looking for inspiration. After a lot of clicking, I came accross this design. This was my starting point. So i did about 9 sketchup designs, and ended up with two I liked - one face frame design and one "european" non-face frame design. I spitballed some movement concerns I had with the community (thanks for the advice Steve!), and decided to go with the "sleeker" version with no face frame. Here is my "rough" sketup design. Details will be added later, when the piece is constructed. I also considered using plywood in the design, but decided to go with solid cherry for the whole unit. Its a simple design, with a clean and uncluttered appearance. I decided that I would drop the BluRay storage underneath, as I have an outlet on the wall that will house the unit. I may make a storage for the hard discs afterwards. The TV also needs to be about 44" off the floor (centre of screen) to accomodate the optimal viewing area, so that outlet was just in the way. Tonight is shop cleaning and prep for the new project. Need to clean/empty the DC unit, sharpen up the planes/chisels, etc. Rough lumber should be tomorrow. Stay tuned! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 Wall hung does change things a bit. I strongly urge you to use a full back, 1/4 ply is enough, set in a dado on all 4 sides. Put 3/4 strip behind the back, top and bottom. You can also use the strip as a french cleat to hang it with. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 So excited to watch this build. Although I am curious as to how you are going to hang it without a back on there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 I also think it look better with a back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keggers Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 +1 on putting a back on the unit. I'd also recommend cutting some hidden ventilation holes where your components will be housed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 Looking forward to the build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 I don't know if you have decided on a way to mount. If you have a FWW membership, check out this article which shows an integrated french cleat. Might be more sturdy than metal hardware. http://www.finewoodworking.com/woodworking-plans/article/3-d-shelves-enliven-any-room.aspx Does the article give the issue #? That would be helpful to those that don't have the membership but do have print or back issue DVD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 May/June 2014. #240. Thx! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 That FWW article is a lot like what I was trying to describe. They use a 3/4" back and rabbet the edges. If you use a 1/4 back and glue and screw the cleat to each partition and kreg or domino the ends into the sides. I also run a 3/4" board across the bottom behind,the back, glued and screwed. I have done wall hung pieces like this for years. On a tall case I use 2 french cleats. Upper and middle. You can put a couple of screws into a stud through the bottom board to prevent lifting . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 Steve, Is the height (width) of the cleat determined by the weight of the piece? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted February 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 My plan for hanging it is pretty simple. The plan is to install a 2 or 3" full length cleat (58" or so) on th wall first. This cleat would be ash, and probably be 5/4 finished. Lag bolt to studs at 3 or 4 locations, and then place the underside of the top on that cleat. Drive screws through the top and into the cleat. I should be able to dance on it and not have it move. I may incorporate a back, but i wanted to leave lots of space for cabling and such. You can see in the diagram that I notched out the dividers to allow cables to be routed behind the unit. Adding a 1/2" or 1/4" back may be a good idea anyways, so i'll noodle with the design a bit more and see what I come up with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 Pug, Have you ever used cabinet screws (I think that's what they're called) ? They're coarse thread, flat head and come in various lengths. The guys that installed our cabinets a couple of years ago, turned me onto them. I've used them several times and can be bought individually at HD. I can't paste the link but they shown as GRK Fastners, # 8 screw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted February 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 Pug, Have you ever used cabinet screws (I think that's what they're called) ? They're coarse thread, flat head and come in various lengths. The guys that installed our cabinets a couple of years ago, turned me onto them. I've used them several times and can be bought individually at HD. I can't paste the link but they shown as GRK Fastners, # 8 screw Think i've seen them before, but I typically use Kreg screws as I always have a healty supply. Are they posi-drive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 13, 2015 Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 A back will keep the case square. Attaching the back to the partitions adds strength too. I usually drill 2 1/2" holes between sections for cables . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted February 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 A back will keep the case square. Attaching the back to the partitions adds strength too. I usually drill 2 1/2" holes between sections for cables . Okay, I'll add a back in sketchup and see how it looks. Thanks for the advice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted February 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 Okay, here are some new sketches with a 1/2" ply back (though the grain is in the wrong direction). I moved the back runner, and cleared out a 3/8 by 1/2 rabbet in the back of the two sides. I reduced the size of the bottom by 1/2" to accomodate the back. Still need to add a cleat to mount to wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted February 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 Okay, up to a version 5 now. 3/4" cleat added behind a dadoed 1/4" ply back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted February 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 Version 6 - This should be the final version. Was bouncing ideas off of steve in the chat room, and think this is the one to build. Steve really should charge a consultation fee in the chat room. Rough lumber layout and prep will be next. Stay tuned! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted February 13, 2015 Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 Looks amazing! Are you planning on drilling straight through those cleats? I don't see the French cleat 45 on them to accept the other piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted February 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 Looks amazing! Are you planning on drilling straight through those cleats? I don't see the French cleat 45 on them to accept the other piece. yup, straight through bottom and top Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted February 13, 2015 Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 Really looks good...and Steve takes Irish Whiskey as payment... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted February 13, 2015 Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 yup, straight through bottom and top Yay I am learning!! Can't wait for the photos to come rolling in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted February 13, 2015 Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 You don't need cleats, backs, nailers of any of the above. Mortised cabinet hangers will hold upwards of 400lbs or 2.5 fat gals and can't be seen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 13, 2015 Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 You don't need cleats, backs, nailers of any of the above. Mortised cabinet hangers will hold upwards of 400lbs or 2.5 fat gals and can't be seen. Hey PB enlighten me, not sure what you are referring to " mortised cabinet hangers " ? Got any pictures or instructions on how these work? Always willing to learn something ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted February 13, 2015 Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 True, but the nice thing about using a cleat is you don't have to worry about the stud location, or matching your hangers to where your studs "should" be. Just attach the cleat to the studs then hang your cabinet. If you drill a hole in the wrong spot, the cleat will cover it and no one will ever know. For me the most frustrating part of DIY is finding studs. Nothing pisses me off more than having to touch up the walls from all missed studs. I hate using drywall anchors even more.... talk about false hope. Drywall holds 190lbs per hanger. The cabinet hangers are very easy to line up thats why they are used in most backless installations now days. We have a line of floating Euro cabinets made with Integra DST for 12ft ceilings making 11,8 boxes up to 50 wide and they weigh a ton and use 6 mortised hangers. Whats the saying? So easy a caveman can do it, which pretty much describes most installers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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