wall mounted cherry entertainment center - final install


rodger.

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Ok, I have seen the version that mounts in the upper inside corner of a cabinet and hooks to a "z" rail with adjustments. That's a new approach I haven't seen. But do you really think Pug could set up to accurately mortice and install those in his media cabinet? Plus he would have to buy the hardware, fasteners and that install jig.

I still prefer to mount into studs whenever possible.

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Ok, I have seen the version that mounts in the upper inside corner of a cabinet and hooks to a "z" rail with adjustments. That's a new approach I haven't seen. But do you really think Pug could set up to accurately mortice and install those in his media cabinet? Plus he would have to buy the hardware, fasteners and that install jig.

I still prefer to mount into studs whenever possible.

 

Router install with a jig. 1/4 ply jig to install. Even metal keyholes will work, 2 key holes in hardwood will hold about 300 lbs with 2" screws and retain the Euro floating look. Add two to the center dividers and he could do the funky nasty on it and it wont go anywhere. 

Just trying to help him retain the original look without a complete redesign. 

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Those hangers looks pretty cool - I like how you can tighten them and pull the cabinet closer to the wall.

Thanks for the advice PB, I may use those style in the future. I'm going to go with the cleat approach this time. For future reference, where can one buy those style hangers? I looked at lee valley, but they don't seem to have any. I would prefer to buy in Canada if possible.

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Update 1 - Rough Layout

 

Well, the time for drawing and planning is over.  Time to start the build.

 

I laid out all my rough lumber (32 BF) and chalked it up.  I marked out my rough cuts, as well as some concern areas to deal with later.

 

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Then I stickered it, and left it for the night.  Will do the rough cuts after the lumber acclimates a bit longer.

 

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Up next - milling and panel glue ups

 

 

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Milling and Side/divider Panel Glue Ups

 

Got some serious shop time today, as my wife took my daughter out shopping for the day.  Tomorrow is also a holiday for us in most parts of Canada (Famlily Day), so I could put off a few things till tomorrow too.

 

First thing I did was mill up the cabinet sides and dividers.  I noodled around with the boards to get a good grain match.  One side of the cabinet will be about 10" from a wall, so the least attractive panel will face the wall.

 

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The I did the same for the dividers.

 

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These panels are wider than tall, so I didnt need a lot of clamps.  I decided to use a caul on each one, which I made from scrap ash and pine, and then used vapour barrier tape so they wouldnt stick to my project.

 

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Then I clamped up the 2 case side and 2 dividers and brought them in the house to cure.

 

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Then I went in for a cup of coffee and to try out my new headphones. 

 

Up next - Bottom milling and glue up, and prepping the stretchers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Gluing up the Bottom

 

After my coffee/walking dead break, I went back out to tackle the solid bottom.

 

I had one really wide board, and didnt want to rip it.  I partially milled it on the jointer, then the rest was handwork with jointer plane.  In the end I got one face about 80% clear, which was enought to send through the planer.

 

I did the typical milling, jointing, and ripping, and then used some dominos (biscuit joiner was in the basement) for alignment.

 

 

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I wrote myself a reminder so I wouldnt cut into my domino later in the build

 

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Then I clamped it all up.

 

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And finally, I milled up the stretchers.  These are slightly oversize in all dimensions, so that I could mill to exact size once I get the joinery cut.  It felt wrong to sacrifice such a beautiful board for this job, but it was really warped and would have been impossible to mill to 3/4" as a wider part.  Ah well.

 

I had to rip cut it with my jigsaw, face plane the two halves, edge joint, plane and rip to get them in a useful state.

 

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Tomorrow will be sizing the panels, some sanding, and joinery layout.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Going to look really nice. Some excellent ideas there. 

 

It may be worth considering independently mounting the screen to the wall using a TV mounting bracket (if you have not decided yet). Monoprice.com is a pretty good source of that type of thing as well as your standards such as Amazon et al.

 

There are a number of advantages of doing this. It is easier to run the cables into the back of the screen, the weight that you unit has to bear is greatly reduced and you have more flexibility with the relative positioning of the console and the screen. Also,l I think it looks nicer, more minimalist I think, which seems to be the look you are going for.

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Going to look really nice. Some excellent ideas there.

It may be worth considering independently mounting the screen to the wall using a TV mounting bracket (if you have not decided yet). Monoprice.com is a pretty good source of that type of thing as well as your standards such as Amazon et al.

There are a number of advantages of doing this. It is easier to run the cables into the back of the screen, the weight that you unit has to bear is greatly reduced and you have more flexibility with the relative positioning of the console and the screen. Also,l I think it looks nicer, more minimalist I think, which seems to be the look you are going for.

I have two mounting brackets already. Think I will place the TV on the stand to start, may want to hang later.
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Update 3

 

Had a good long, cold, day in the shop.  I took 25 photos, but my phone lost them.  I tried to recover, but only got 4.  :(

 

Anyways, I cut all the panels to size from yesterday, using the "poor man's" tracksaw (edge guide and circ saw).  I use green tape to avoid tearing out.

 

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I crosscut and ripped all the parts, and did a dry fit.  I did not like the spreaders on their own, as they kept slipping when I attempted to dry fit the case.  So I used my pocket hole jig and made a quick frame with them.  I then put in some dominos to attach the frame to the side.  I had photos of this...

 

Then I marked and cut the joinery for the base to sides.  Before I cut the joinery for the side panels, I moved them up about 3/8" from the bottom.  I decided that the detail looked nice, and compliments the top.

 

After the joinery was cut and the dry fit done, I brought it into the house and left it clamped up in case anything decided to warp or move.  I'll leave it in the clamps overnight.  The only reason I didnt glue it up is beacuse I dont have the material for the back, and want it to fit well.  I cut the reabte for the back after I get it from the lumberyard.

 

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Then, since i still had some time, I decided to mill up the top.  These boards were wide, so I hand flattened most of them on one side and sent them through the planer.  I was making a mess of edge jointing them on my power jointer, as the boards were long and wide (70" by 7.5").  So I again used my jointer plane instead.

 

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Then I dominoed, cauled, and clamped to keep that puppy flat!

 

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Tomorrow will be getting the back slot routed and fishishing the diviers, and getting ready for glue.  I'll also get the top out of clamps, but I prob wont get around to hand plaing it for a few days.

 

Again, sorry for the lack of photos.  I had some really good ones too, that would have detailed the joinery a lot better.  I'll take some new photos when I assemble for glue.

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Great progress!!

What is the red stuff on the bottom of the cross boards? Possibly the cauls? Is that what they are?

Yes, I made some cauls from scraps, and used vapour barrier tape on the contact face of each one. This way, they don't stick to the project. Tuck tape is also mega sticky, so it won't go anywhere.

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Update 4

 

This update is all about dry fitting - I did 4 to get it right!  Yikes!

 

I started with the back, and began by determing the dimensions of groove.  I used a scrap peice of MDF to get the depth (1/4") and set back (3/4") correct.

 

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Then I cut the groove in all 4 mating pieces (both sides, top spreader, and bottom).  I dropped the back in, trimmed it, and then dropped it in place.  Then I placed the rough cut divider in place, marked and cut the width, and marked for dominos.

 

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Keeping track of the grain pays off sometimes - got a good match for the divider and base.

 

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And then the dominos (i made a MDF scrap board jig to locate them).

 

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Then I dry fit the entire thing again, and made sure all was good.  I took it all apart, and sanded everything to 220, progressing though te grits.  I also ran my smoother over the exposed edges.  This was a good idea, as sanding and smoothing would be far more difficult after assembly.  Then I dry fit again, and disassembled.

 

I decided that the glue up was too difficult for a one shot deal, so I decided to glue the dividers to the base first.

 

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Tomorrow, I will glue up the rest of the carcass, and get ready to clean up the top.

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Some design changes since the original sketch.  I added a back, set 3/4" from the case edge.  I reduced the dividers size, so that the carcass base and sub top overhang the dividersd by an inch.  I also moved the base up about 1/2", to complement the top's size and create a slight visual detail.  I'll do another sketch, and post it when I get a few mins.

 

I may also add an adjustable shelf between the dividers, using a shelf pin jig.

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When I do partial glue ups I sometimes use the upper part dry fit to keep the alignment right. Keeps the dividers from drying a bit out of square, if you see what I'm talking about.

Yes, and I thought about doing that. I did a dry run, used a square, and everything seemed fine. The shelves are short and wide, so this prob helped. Good suggestion though.

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The carcass glue up went relatively smoothly, so decided to do a bit of work on the top.

 

I cut the top to size, and then sanded up to 220.  I flipped it over, and added an edge profile to the underside of the table.  the top is designed to overhang the sides by 2", and the front by 1".

 

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Next up weill be finishing, and then install.

 

 

 

 

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