Coop Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 I like the chamfer. Nice touch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted March 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 Kind of a non-update. I know some people are following, so wanted you to know this project is still ongoing. I am on the fifth coat of wipe on poly, but I just can't get the sheen I want, so I'm gonna keep going. Should have pictures soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 A coat of dewaxed shellac on woods like cherry will seal it and let varnish build quicker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 Yea but not after 5 coats of wipe on poly ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 Yea but not after 5 coats of wipe on poly ! I was talking for future projects Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted March 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 this is not uncommon for me. sometimes i go as high as 8 coats before i am happy. I sand back between coats with 400 or 600, so it takes me a while to build a good film. I stopped adding coats to non visible parts (bottom, top underside, etc) and the final 2 or 3 coats will only go on show faces. In the meantime, I started another project to keep busy. I'll post soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 You can put several coats on at this point and then sand. It,will build much faster. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 I guess I'm of the opinion that if you need more than five coats of a wipe-on varnish, perhaps you should be using something else that builds a film faster. My typical protocol with A-R-S is three full strength coats then one diluted about 50/50. For pieces that will see a bit more use I might do four full strength coats then the diluted coat. But I never go more than that. In my experience you don't gain that much more protection but you do start getting that plastic look. But that's my taste and why I like A-R-S...because you can get decent protection with just a few coats, but still keep that close-to-the-wood look without the thick film. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted March 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 I guess I'm of the opinion that if you need more than five coats of a wipe-on varnish, perhaps you should be using something else that builds a film faster. My typical protocol with A-R-S is three full strength coats then one diluted about 50/50. For pieces that will see a bit more use I might do four full strength coats then the diluted coat. But I never go more than that. In my experience you don't gain that much more protection but you do start getting that plastic look. But that's my taste and why I like A-R-S...because you can get decent protection with just a few coats, but still keep that close-to-the-wood look without the thick film. I used arm R seal on one of recent projects (kitchen helper), but I didn't really like it that much. I found it didn't go on as nicely as the minwax wipe on,but that could be due to my personal frequency of use. I often go 5 coats, but I had to knock some of them back to get out dust nibs and some other imperfections. Looks like this one is going to be 6 or so. Last coat or two will be highly diluted with mineral spirits to help reduce the dreaded nibs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 I feel like the Minwax wipe-on is thinner than A-R-S. That may be a contributing factor to both your negative experience with it and the fact that you're wanting so many coats. Honestly I missed that altogether in your post...I'm so used to everyone using A-R-S that when I read "wipe-on poly" I always just assume that's what people are using. Next time you try A-R-S, try thinning it down a bit. Wiping on any finish on a project like the kitchen helper is never fun...with all the nooks and crannies and all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 Wipe on poly is just normal poly thinned with MS. Cheaper and more control to thin normal poly yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 I feel like the Minwax wipe-on is thinner than A-R-S. That may be a contributing factor to both your negative experience with it and the fact that you're wanting so many coats. Honestly I missed that altogether in your post...I'm so used to everyone using A-R-S that when I read "wipe-on poly" I always just assume that's what people are using. Next time you try A-R-S, try thinning it down a bit. Wiping on any finish on a project like the kitchen helper is never fun...with all the nooks and crannies and all. i usually brush it on full strength a la David Marks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 Wipe on Watco, spray everything else ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 Wipe on poly is just normal poly thinned with MS. Cheaper and more control to thin normal poly yourself. I don't know exactly what they do to A-R-S that makes it different from the Minwax wipe-on poly, but I don't think it's much. They certainly don't just "add oil." I don't believe there's technically oil in it...some jargon about "oil modified resins" or something like that leads people to believe that oil is one of the ingredients. But I'm fairly certain it's not. If you do the glass test (put a drop on a piece of glass and let it dry), it dries as a solid dot without wrinkles. Finishes with oil in them will dry wrinkly. As far as I'm concerned, A-R-S is just diluted varnish with some other proprietary "stuff" involved. I don't understand it, but I sure do like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 What do you dilute it with, ms? Then apply with a rag or foam brush? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted March 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 What do you dilute it with, ms? Yup. About 50/50 mineral spirits and poly. Marc has a good video on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 I don't know exactly what they do to A-R-S that makes it different from the Minwax wipe-on poly, but I don't think it's much. They certainly don't just "add oil." I don't believe there's technically oil in it...some jargon about "oil modified resins" or something like that leads people to believe that oil is one of the ingredients. But I'm fairly certain it's not. If you do the glass test (put a drop on a piece of glass and let it dry), it dries as a solid dot without wrinkles. Finishes with oil in them will dry wrinkly. As far as I'm concerned, A-R-S is just diluted varnish with some other proprietary "stuff" involved. I don't understand it, but I sure do like it. I might have forgot some of this but Waterlox, A-R-S, and poly are all varnishes and will dry a solid dot. They all have oil and it's the varnish that makes it dry a solid dot. Waterlox uses tung oil and a phenolic resin which makes it look less "plasticy" than poly. Add oil and mineral spirits to any varnish and you have an oil/varnish blend like Watco. The dot will dry wrinkly. Add mineral spirits to any varnish and you have a wiping varnish. Waterlox and A-R-S are already pretty thin and need little, if any mineral spirits to wipe. Poly is usually a lot thicker and could require up to 50% mineral spirits to wipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted March 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 Install and Finishing Touches After the last coat of finish dried, I brought the whole unit up to the room it is to be installed in. I set it on some stools, and snapped some photos. Then I flipped it over and I installed the back cleat (with pocket holes). An then I hung the top cleat directly on the wall. In this way, I could level the cleat, drop the unit on top of the cleat's edge, and screw through the stretcher and into the cleat (from the top). Then, ensuring all was good, I could drive screw through the back, bottom cleat, and into the studs. Rock solid! Thanks for the help Steve! After the carcass is up, the top can be attached by using oversized holes in the stretchers, and screwing into the top with 1.25" or 1.5" screws. Up next - final install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted March 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 Final install Tonight i did the final mounting and placed a few items on the unit (TV, Blu-Ray player, WiFi gear, new wireless headphones, etc). Ignore the cabling in and under the cabinet - that will all be hidden in the next day or two. I installed the unit directly above an outlet, so i just stuck a power bar in the cabinet for the time being. I have a solution for hiding all the cables, and I'll post when I get it all hidden. I enjoyed this build, but at times it was frustrating. I believe this was mainly due to the fact I built this out of solid wood, and I had some issues getting everything mega flat so the joinery would be gap free. In the end i got there, but I could have made this a lot easier on myself by either using ply for the carcass, or switching the domino joinery for the dividers to Dado on the TS. Either way I am pleased with how it turned out, and look forward to watching TV in my new TV room! Thanks for reading! -Pug 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted March 6, 2015 Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 That's slick Pug. Great work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted March 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 thanks T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted March 6, 2015 Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 That turned out great and just needs to darken with age to look even better. Since oil varnishes can take up to 30 days to cure be careful that nothing on it sticks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Posted March 6, 2015 Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 Nice job, Pug! Looks great, love the finish! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted March 6, 2015 Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 Nice job! Also love the Sennheiser's. I have a similar model and been using them every single day for years without issues. The original AAA rechargeable batteries lasted for two years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted March 6, 2015 Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 That turned out great, Pug. Good job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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