Inlay with radii tighter than inlay kit bushing diameter


daviddoria

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I have an inlay bearing kit that has the removable bushing for cutting the male and female workpieces with the same template. However, the with the removable bushing in place, the bushing diamter is over a half inch, which doesn't allow even remotely small detail in the inlay. Is there any way to make details smaller than .5" besides using a "freehand" technique (like Marc does here: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/router-based-inlay/)? I'm trying to do something like this: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3c/Fleur-de-lis-fill.svg/2000px-Fleur-de-lis-fill.svg.png and with the .5" bushing I am not able to get those sharp points.

 

Any suggestions?

 

Thanks,

 

David

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For points you need to finish with a chisel or knife.  A router is never going to give you sharp points.

 

I'd use the template and bushings for as much as possible, free hand router as much as you can after that, and then if you want actual sharp points finish up with a blade.

 

Here are some alternatives, but you won't like them:

 

  • Find someone who will let you use their laser CNC machine
  • Free hand with a scroll saw on a piece the same thickness as your inlay, then glue it to a backer.
  • Dremel with a bit that has a 1/8" bit and shaft, with the "Precision Base" for the Dremel.  Then finish with a knife or chisel for the points.
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Yeah, I hadn't really thought option three through.  Also, without a bearing on the shaft you are going to have a friction/heat/burning problem.  Paste wax might help.  

 

As is often the case, the luthiers probably know how to do this.  Look into how to do inlays on fretboards.

 

But, I think this is one of those cases where a little practice and doing it free hand the way Marc demo'd is the best way to do it.  I recognize the urge to come up with a fool proof procedure to follow, but sometimes that's just not a good way to do things.

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I've only done it once but I did free hand with my router and finished up with a chisel. I cut the inlay first than set it on my bench scored the outline with an exacto knife set the depth on the router so the inlay was going to be proud just an iota it's not as hard as you might think.

gallery_2926_515_6677.jpg

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When I inlay on my guitars I use a Dremel with a StewMac base. I also try to avoid having any sharp points in my designs so the problem with getting the sharp parts rarely emerges.

All routs are roughed out with a larger router bit and then the edges/detail is completed with a very fine router bit 1/64" and 1/32" diameter. Very small cuts and large magnifying optics help here. If there are any sharp points then a surgical scalpel is utilized.

I do all mine manually by hand with no guidance. The Dremel will not run away, like full size bits in regular routers do, so it is easy but you have to be very careful with those fine router bits - they can break very easily. The inevitable gaps that emerge are filled with CA glue and the substrate dust. So, for instance, ebony fret boards when finished don't have any gaps around the inlays and look perfect. Lighter coloured woods like maple are more problematic as you do see a darker edge around the inlay. But that is only when you scrutinize it very closely. An average Joe would not even be aware.

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Just do it freehand.  It's time consuming but leaves you without limitations the way templates and bushings do.  Another problem with the bushing kits is if they're not dead nuts centered around your bit - and they rarely are - you'll have small gaps all over the place.

 

One of my freehand attempts...

 

 

iot1.jpg

 

 

iot2.jpg

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