bushwacked Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 So working on finishing my maple table and have ran into this ... I am not sure the route I should go after reading/watching a lot on it. I would like something that will not amber the stain. I have read that waster based dry really quick which can lead to issues and uneven coats. The oil will give me more time to work it and have better chance of making everything nice and smooth. I just do not know if it is advisable to add an oil top coat over a water based stain. Am I stuck with a water based top coat? Has anyone worked with the below products? Are any better than the others or are they all about the same? As far as applying ... with water based I need a brush correct? I also think it is a natural bristle brush too? Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 My choice would be the Enduro-var after all a table is going to get stuff spilled on it. It's going to get cleaned often plus general wear and tear, abuse etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Sounds like a good excuse to get a Fuji HVLP and spray some waterborne topcoats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Ok so sounds like general finishes is the best. Also sounds like I can just let the water based stain dry for several days and then I should be able to use an oil based finish to help bring a little more sheen to it. Why does water based leave a dull finish? Even if I go with a semi gloss over a satin? Would that help give it a little nicer look? Correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Both oil and water have different sheens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Sounds like a good excuse to get a Fuji HVLP and spray some waterborne topcoats. Haha I wish. There is a lot more I need before I can invest in a spray machine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 You can get it glossy, but because it is colorless it looks dull/almost blue-ish. That being said, GF endurovar is tinted amber to help give it some life. Ok so the Amber is what helps give it the shine and helps the wood pop a little more? Then the oil based would give it even more? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Not really . I think your best bet is the Enduro var. So much easier to use, dries faster too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Not really . I think your best bet is the Enduro var. So much easier to use, dries faster too. Ok I will grab some of that for sure. I know this is a preference question but do you like the look of satin or semi gloss better? I don't want a super dull finish but I also don't want a mirror finish either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Satin will look less plastic. It will also hide minor imperfections better than Semi or Gloss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Satin will look less plastic. It will also hide minor imperfections better than Semi or Gloss. Oh ok. Decisions decisions then Maybe I will get both and test them on my test strips. Also. If I keep the kids closed. How long does the stain and finish last in there before I need to replace it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 Clean the rim of the can and lid well before closing. Stains seem to last longer than finishes for me. 6 months to a year or more if the finish isn't catalyzed. Read labels and MFG data sheets closely. Bent or dented rims and lids don't seal well. Clean and unbent rims seal and the contents last longer. Consistent storage temperatures help too, basement is better than a backyard shed. In the house is probably best for water based finishing supplies. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted February 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 Clean the rim of the can and lid well before closing. Stains seem to last longer than finishes for me. 6 months to a year or more if the finish isn't catalyzed. Read labels and MFG data sheets closely. Bent or dented rims and lids don't seal well. Clean and unbent rims seal and the contents last longer. Consistent storage temperatures help too, basement is better than a backyard shed. In the house is probably best for water based finishing supplies. Mine will be in the garage unless something crazy happens and nothing last that long. Then I may look into a solution inside the house. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 Your in Texas aren't you? I doubt your garage gets cold enough to hurt water based finishing supplies. Just to be on the safe side you could put them near an interior wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 Hey Mike, you have a link to where it says that the "clear poly" is more durable against the Enduro-Var and High Performance? -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 Ok got ya! The clear-poly is a spray only product and I believe ( I remember something that GF was adding cross linker to the clear poly at manufacturing) instead of offering it as a separate purchase item, so yes it tougher. I could be off on this? it was early last year sometime they made the change and raised the price of the clear poly. Yep Enduro-Var will amber. Are you using GF white base? -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vyrolan Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 Well to be fair, no one is going to buy the "fairly durable" poly sitting right next to "able to survive a nuclear explosion and then sit in water for a thousand years and still barely bend when struck by Chuck Norris" poly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 Here's a damage test I did using GF Enduro-var, High Performance, and Old Master's waterborne poly's. All are good products but I like Old Master's the best plus can get it locally for a lot cheaper than the others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 I was going to put it over Milk Paint that I had custom tinted by a GF dealer. I have not started that project yet. I am using High performance because it will be good enough for my purpose (interior window and door casings). That way I can spray in the shop and then touch up with a brush if needed. The website says clear poly is self-cross linking but you can also add Enduro Crosslinker. If your spraying, ya may want to go with the clear poly tinted to the color of the milk paint and call it done. If brushing, the GF milk paint is very tough on its own and considering what your are coating, the high performance isn't necessary. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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