Water Based Stain with Oil or Water Based Top Coat?


bushwacked

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So working on finishing my maple table and have ran into this ... I am not sure the route I should go after reading/watching a lot on it.

 

 

I would like something that will not amber the stain. I have read that waster based dry really quick which can lead to issues and uneven coats. The oil will give me more time to work it and have better chance of making everything nice and smooth.

 

I just do not know if it is advisable to add an oil top coat over a water based stain. Am I stuck with a water based top coat?

 

 

 

Has anyone worked with the below products? Are any better than the others or are they all about the same?

 

As far as applying ... with water based I need a brush correct? I also think it is a natural bristle brush too?

 

 

Thoughts?

 

 

 

 

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Ok so sounds like general finishes is the best. Also sounds like I can just let the water based stain dry for several days and then I should be able to use an oil based finish to help bring a little more sheen to it.

Why does water based leave a dull finish? Even if I go with a semi gloss over a satin? Would that help give it a little nicer look?

Correct?

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Not really . I think your best bet is the Enduro var. So much easier to use, dries faster too.

Ok I will grab some of that for sure. I know this is a preference question but do you like the look of satin or semi gloss better? I don't want a super dull finish but I also don't want a mirror finish either.

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Clean the rim of the can and lid well before closing. Stains seem to last longer than finishes for me. 6 months to a year or more if the finish isn't catalyzed. Read labels and MFG data sheets closely.

Bent or dented rims and lids don't seal well. Clean and unbent rims seal and the contents last longer. Consistent storage temperatures help too, basement is better than a backyard shed. In the house is probably best for water based finishing supplies.

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Clean the rim of the can and lid well before closing. Stains seem to last longer than finishes for me. 6 months to a year or more if the finish isn't catalyzed. Read labels and MFG data sheets closely.

Bent or dented rims and lids don't seal well. Clean and unbent rims seal and the contents last longer. Consistent storage temperatures help too, basement is better than a backyard shed. In the house is probably best for water based finishing supplies.

Mine will be in the garage unless something crazy happens and nothing last that long. Then I may look into a solution inside the house.

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Ok got ya!

 

The clear-poly is a spray only product and I believe ( I remember something that GF was adding cross linker to the clear poly at manufacturing) instead of offering it as a separate purchase item, so yes it tougher. I could be off on this? it was early last year sometime they made the change and raised the price of the clear poly.   

 

Yep Enduro-Var will amber. Are you using GF white base?

 

-Ace-

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I was going to put it over Milk Paint that I had custom tinted by a GF dealer.  I have not started that project yet.   I am using High performance because it will be good enough for my purpose (interior window and door casings).   That way I can spray in the shop and then touch up with a brush if needed.   

 

The website says clear poly is self-cross linking but you can also add Enduro Crosslinker.  

 

If your spraying, ya may want to go with the clear poly tinted to the color of the milk paint and call it done. 

 

If brushing, the GF milk paint is very tough on its own and considering what your are coating, the high performance isn't necessary. 

 

-Ace-

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