estesbubba Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 I generally rip rough wood oversized on the bandsaw and use rip blade for 5/4+ on the table saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Ace, How small of a bandsaw are we talking about? 14" Delta with a riser block Boils back to right tool for the job. Little bandsaw is not going to do much good when it comes to ripping stock. Probably more of a pain than dealing with a little tablesaw. Maybe I should get your bandsaw, what kind is it? So you break down 90% of your hardwoods on a bandsaw? -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 If my table saw had the blade hight, I would rip all the thick stuff on my table saw. So much easier. Suck's ripping boards on the band saw. I mean you have that small saw deck to deal with. Rig an outfit table up and no SUBSTANCIAL fence to index from. Just a lot of work But thats just me. -Ace- This bandsaw is dedicated to straight cuts. It works great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 14" Delta with a riser block Maybe I should get your bandsaw, what kind is it? So you break down 90% of your hardwoods on a bandsaw? -Ace- I have a 24" powermatic. When I have whole bunch of the same size I push the shaper over and drop the power feed onto the bandsaw table. Bandsaw rips 4/4 at 43fpm easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 This bandsaw is dedicated to straight cuts. It works great. Cool big E...you got it figured out. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 I have a 24" powermatic. When I have whole bunch of the same size I push the shaper over and drop the power feed onto the bandsaw table. Bandsaw rips 4/4 at 43fpm easily. Wow, you fly first class my man! -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan S Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 14" Delta with a riser block I have a 14" as well, but its the steel tube column type, and I do pretty much all my ripping on it. stock prep in my shop goes pretty much like this: 1. cross cut to rough width with the miter saw or jig saw 2. joint an edge if needed to get a good edge to reference off the bandsaw fence 3. rip to rough width at bandsaw 4. joint a face 5. plane other face 6. joint an edge 7. rip to width, or run through planer again on edge. 8. cross cut to length at tablesaw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Jimerfield Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 No table saw will rip it cleanly/well/etc if it's got that much tension...that board was a good candidate for ripping on the bandsaw. Wood that hard and thick doesn't need much tension to cause a tight pinch. I thought about using my bandsaw, but it's a crappy little machine and the setup would have been tedious. I was not afraid of kickback as the board was long and very heavy and I handled it correctly. When the pinching started I killed the motor, inserted a wedge, backed it up and restarted. It finished fine, but there was some burning. This wood burns easily and at that thickness I knew it would. A thinner blade would have helped with the power issue, but it would not have prevented the pinch or burning. A bandsaw upgrade is on my list. I just keep suffering this little crappy one for some reason. I've upgraded most of my machines over the last few years, but that crappy little bandsaw just keeps on hanging around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 This bandsaw is dedicated to straight cuts. It works great. Nice looking setup for long boards. Do you use a roller for the infeed side? If I ever find a need for a miter saw for woodworking I'm going to steal this idea. Is that a Grizzly 17" saw and what size blade to you use? I have a 17" Griz and use 1/2" blades but thinking of trying 3/4". I would love to find a used 14" bandsaw for smaller blades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 If you can run a 1" blade they are great for running stock for ripping like 4/4. You can cram the wood without the back flexing and cut real fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 If you can run a 1" blade they are great for running stock for ripping like 4/4. You can cram the wood without the back flexing and cut real fast. My saw can handle up to 1" blade but do you think it can properly tension it? I'm not looking for speed but good performance for resawing. This is the saw I have: http://www.grizzly.com/products/17-Bandsaw-2HP-w-Cast-Iron-Trunnion/G0513X2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 My saw can handle up to 1" blade but do you think it can properly tension it? I'm not looking for speed but good performance for resawing. This is the saw I have: http://www.grizzly.com/products/17-Bandsaw-2HP-w-Cast-Iron-Trunnion/G0513X2 You wont benefit with a wide blade for resawing, just not enough power only ripping thinner stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimberMagic Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 First 3hp is not a powerful saw. [...] Well, those of us with 1.75 HP contractor-style table saws might disagree with you just a bit on this point. However, since you have a 5HP saw, I get it. Back in the 70s years ago I worked at the Naval Weapons Center, and we had a wood shop for employees (I was a civil servant.) They had the biggest table saw I'd ever seen, and I think it may have used a blade larger than 12". I just do not remember the brand or saw specs. It likely had at least 5HP, and possibly more. It went thru any wood I ran thru it like a hot knife thru butter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Hey Timbermagic.....................this forum has all the fancy pants folks that use expensive band-saws for ripping 4/4 stock and expensive table saws for making cross cuts. Keep the faith brother! Signed another contractor saw owner..........hehehehe -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Nice looking setup for long boards. Do you use a roller for the infeed side? If I ever find a need for a miter saw for woodworking I'm going to steal this idea. Is that a Grizzly 17" saw and what size blade to you use? I have a 17" Griz and use 1/2" blades but thinking of trying 3/4". I would love to find a used 14" bandsaw for smaller blades. Yes it's a 17" Grizzly, and I've just been using a 1/2" Timberwolf...but when I win the lottery I plan to put a 3/4" Resaw King on it. No I don't use infeed rollers. If I'm wrestling a monster board I'll slap the Grip-Tite on the table if space allows. The beauty of ripping on a bandsaw...if you come off the fence a little bit it's no big deal...a bit of a wavy cut but you don't lose the family jewels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coastyboy Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 wouldn't use thin kerf for straight line ripping, too much flex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 wouldn't use thin kerf for straight line ripping, too much flex Many multi kerf straight line rip saws use very thin kerf blades, thinner than what hobby shops call thin kerf. Some use thick kerfs much thicker than what most call full kerf. Both have a purpose both cut straight lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trz Posted February 26, 2015 Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 I use a thin kerf if I'm doing much ripping simply because i bought one shortly before i got rid of my 1 1/2 hp contractors saw. I have a 3 horse npw but i still have the TK so i might as well use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knotscott Posted February 26, 2015 Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 wouldn't use thin kerf for straight line ripping, too much flex If all else is equal, a thin kerf blade has a higher chance of flexing, but they're not all created equal. Now that I have a 3hp saw I rarely use a TK, but I don't recall ever experience problems from flexing or deflection when I did use them....a good quality TK blade on a well tuned saw, cutting wood that's flat and straight should quite well unless you get into something like mesquite that has very stiff grain. Long cutting sessions and heat high could cause problems for a TK too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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