Wine Hutch


Shane Jimerfield

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Well I worked up a design for a wine hutch. I'm going to build it out of QS Black Oak and Red Gum Eucalyptus.
I got the Black Oak locally and the Red Gum fom a guy down in NoCal who got a tree that fell in a park. I got the Red Gum about 7 years ago and have used bits of it for a few things, but I'm finally chopping into a bunch for this project.
 
Here are a couple drawings of what I'm going for. My intention is to carve some ravens - never, ever done that before. I've been doing a bit of practicing, and well it's harder than I thought. I may create the carvings as appliqués so as to not screw up the cabinet while I learn to carve.
 
 The top center panel will be a drawer, and the two facing ravens will be doors to a shelf or more wine racks on the inside. I'm not sure yet on how I will fill out the inside.

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Spent some time with a sander, and a lot of scrapping, but the results are looking good. The grain is starting to pop!

 

Now that I've gotten to nearly finished, I'll start working on the surface checks. Going to do a combination of epoxy in the small ones, and filling the larger ones with wedges (per a tip from Ace).

 

Here's the top. I'll post the legs soon, they need some more scrapping then filling of the surface checks. This Red Gum is hard to work with. The wood is hard, and the figure is crazy but I'm liking the results and the final product should be worth it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been working away on the top and legs. Lots of epoxy and scrapping. It's gonna look awesome, but wow what a lot of work. I've got all the other parts roughed out, but can't move forward until I get the top and legs finished so I can assemble the carcass.

 

So, while waiting for the epoxy to dry I've been thinking about the top. I think I want to do something more interesting than just a rectangle. I gravitated toward doing a curve on the front, but then thought about a concave curve with a bevel. I'd put a 45 degree bevel along the front and around the sides, then cut the curve to match the bevel - so it goes to vertical right in the middle of the front. The curve wouldn't go past where the legs begin so that it lines up flush there at the bottom of the bevel. (The curved bevel is based off the trestle table by Chaffin).

 

Here are the drawing modifications. What do you think?

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I'd keep the overhang equal on the sides and front.

 

Personally, I'd lose the fancy curve/bevel deal.  It looks cool on certain pieces but I think it would do more harm than good on this particular piece.  The more I play with design, the more I lean toward the "less is more" philosophy.  If you can't explain why you added a detail, it's often a mistake.  Embellishments are tricky little bastards.  I give them no better than a 50/50 success rate...on a good day.  Anyway, that's one guy's opinion.  At the very least I'd do a mock-up top...I have a feeling a simple bevel all the way around would be the winner. :)

 

I wish I had your sketchup skills.

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I like the curve... I think if you did something that complimented that design element on the back splash it would look great.  For me the current back splash looks incongruous to the rest of the hutch...  I may have to borrow this design for my niece and a project I am considering doing for her.

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I think a convex curve might be better, so it had more overhang in the center. I am with Kiki, I like curves like that when they are subtle. The trestle table is long enough that the curve really makes the table look more streamlined and lighter. It is also functional. You wany more space in the middle of the table for serving dishes, etc. So it gives you width where you need it without letting the table overpower the room.

On FWW website there is a Tage Frid plan for "scandanavian chest of drawers" that uses the same beveled curve in a more subtle way.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/woodworking-plans/article/variations-on-a-four-drawer-chest.aspx

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