Toy Chest


TerryMcK

Recommended Posts

No Vinny they stayed open throughout the entire movement. Only when getting close to being closed (about 1" away) would they very slowly creep closed. I did have to make some shims as I'd gone a little shy of 3/4" on the rear hinge stretcher thickness. I put cork to act as buffers at the two front corners again to minimise any finger traps.

I have the Veritas plug cutters and used them to make the plugs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No I used American white oak on the gate. It was actually cheaper than European despite coming thousands of miles further.

 

Yeah it's definitely counter-intuitive...walnut grows profusely all over the midwestern US...and I can get Honduran mahogany cheaper than walnut. :blink:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

looks great terry, nice job. I've got a toy box project coming up so it's nice to hear a good report on those hinges, been looking at them and wondering if they worked as advertised

They work great Dave. One thing this isn't mentioned in the instructions is you have to locally remove some wood under the hinge pin side of the hinge. Essentially you are applying a radius to the top outside corner of the hinge rail to allow the hinge to sit snug against the wood. When you buy them you will see what I mean as the metal has an inside radius at that point. The rest of that top rail can be chamfered or the edge broken with sand paper.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.