shaneymack Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Finally got a blade on my new bandsaw and got things set up. Seems to cut pretty good. When i look in the window at the upper wheel, there seems to be a wobble. When i look at the side of the blade it is evident that the blade is moving back and forth slightly. The entire machine does have a bit of vibration. If i don't lock the fence down it slowly moves. Is this normal? I can get a penny to stand on edge but it does have a bit of wobble and did fall over a couple times. Im not overly concerned i just want to know how tuned i should be able to get this thing and at the end of the day if it really matters. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 ==>When i look in the window at the upper wheel, there seems to be a wobble As a general rule, that's not good... What's the make/model of BS? Is it new? ==>at the end of the day if it really matters. If it's the upper wheel bearings, yea -- it matters... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 ==>When i look in the window at the upper wheel, there seems to be a wobble As a general rule, that's not good... What's the make/model of BS? Is it new? ==>at the end of the day if it really matters. If it's the upper wheel bearings, yea -- it matters... Its a laguna. Lt18 3000 series. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Yes its brand new.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 The blade should be at the center of the wheels at all times. Make sure you're not tensioning the blade too much. You may also have to adjust the blade tracking. A good video about this: http://www.finewoodworking.com/tool-guide/video/how-to-set-up-a-bandsaw.aspx Also check with another blade, because the blade could be the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Take the blade off and spin the wheel if it wobbles its the wheel or bearings. If not its the blade. The blade may not have a flat back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 The blade should be at the center of the wheels at all times. Make sure you're not tensioning the blade too much. You may also have to adjust the blade tracking. A good video about this:http://www.finewoodworking.com/tool-guide/video/how-to-set-up-a-bandsaw.aspx Also check with another blade, because the blade could be the problem. Thanks for the link. I will watch it and make sure i have done everything correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Take the blade off and spin the wheel if it wobbles its the wheel or bearings. If not its the blade. The blade may not have a flat back. Not sure i can spin it fast enough by hand to recreate the wobble. I will try. I will also try my 1" blade to make sure it isnt the blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 ==>spin it fast enough by hand to recreate the wobble You don't need much RPM to see wobble... Just spin it slowely --- 60RPM is fine.... Just pay attention... A good straight-edge can help... As mentioned above, don't go crazy with tension... For many years, the battle cry was, "More tension... more tension... more tension"... Now, it's "Less is more"... When I'm having a problem, I tend to loosen the tension by a half-turn or so --- if things get better, I continue... At some point, things are just fine... It's amazing just how many problems this fixes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Not sure i can spin it fast enough by hand to recreate the wobble. I will try. I will also try my 1" blade to make sure it isnt the blade. Honestly if its a new saw I doubt its the saw unless the wheel is bent and you could easily see that in the wheel. My first guess is going to be the blade. That being said that is common with 1" blades Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Honestly if its a new saw I doubt its the saw unless the wheel is bent and you could easily see that in the wheel. My first guess is going to be the blade. That being said that is common with 1" blades the vibration is with the 1/2" blade. I will be putting the 1" blade to see if the 1/2" blade is problematic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 the vibration is with the 1/2" blade. I will be putting the 1" blade to see if the 1/2" blade is problematic. I assume you have crowned tires. Adjust your tracking so that the bottom of the gullet is in the center of your wheel. Give the blade some tension enough to hold it on the machine. Back off all your guides away from the blade. Start the saw the blade should have a wobble left to right standing in the operator position. Tension the blade until that wobble goes away then back it off just a little. Now go to the side. Hold a board or pencil close to the blade back. If there is wobble then its likely the blade. Take the blade off and set it on your tablesaw and you will see that it was miswelded. If no wobble reset all your guides and go make sawdust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 I put the 1" blade on. Its way worse. When i look at the blade spinning on the wheel i can see the blade moving left to right a good 1/16". I played with the tension and it didnt do a thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 I put the 1" blade on. Its way worse. When i look at the blade spinning on the wheel i can see the blade moving left to right a good 1/16". I played with the tension and it didnt do a thing. Did you center the blade on the wheel or put the bottom of the gullet in the center? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 ==>I put the 1" blade on. Its way worse. Let's take a step back and remove blades and spin the wheel -- i.e. remove blades from the equation... PB's right, 99% it's not the bearings, but you never know... One equation, one unknown... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Did you center the blade on the wheel or put the bottom of the gullet in the center? I centered the blade on the wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 ==>I put the 1" blade on. Its way worse. Let's take a step back and remove blades and spin the wheel -- i.e. remove blades from the equation... PB's right, 99% it's not the bearings, but you never know... One equation, one unknown... Ok i will do that next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vyrolan Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 I centered the blade on the wheel. That's not really the right way to do it...it needs to be the bottom of the gullet like PB says... Here's a great video that really explains a lot about Bandsaw setup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Verify the blade and bearings first then we can move on. While you are there check to see if your upper wheel has toe adjustment. Toe is the tilt left to right if your standing on the side of the machine. Camber is what you use to align the blade in the wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 ==>great video that really explains a lot about Bandsaw setup Before someone with a good memory points it out, I might as well come clean… The last time the video surfaced, I was rather negative on the guy, the approach and the video... On the upside: you can learn a lot about how adjustments work and the basics of setting-up a saw… He’s one of the few to highlight the importance of correctly tracking the blade … On the downside: he presents his setup procedure as universal, but it's not… It’s an important caveat and would have diluted his message, but important enough that it should have been mentioned… His procedure will work best on small hobby saws... His procedure will work on exactly zero of the saws I’ve owned… So watch the video and get some good info --- just remember that the procedure may or may not work for your saw… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 I had a similar issue on my saw. Thought it was the bottom wheel needing to be adjusted. A lot of times if the blade is wobbling the cause it's the drive wheel (as long as the top wheel is ok). My problem was that the snap ring on the bottom wheel post had bent and the wheel was oscillating on the post. Not saying this is your issue, but worth a check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 ==>great video that really explains a lot about Bandsaw setup Before someone with a good memory points it out, I might as well come clean… The last time the video surfaced, I was rather negative on the guy, the approach and the video... On the upside: you can learn a lot about how adjustments work and the basics of setting-up a saw… He’s one of the few to highlight the importance of correctly tracking the blade … On the downside: he presents his setup procedure as universal, but it's not… It’s an important caveat and would have diluted his message, but important enough that it should have been mentioned… His procedure will work best on small hobby saws... His procedure will work on exactly zero of the saws I’ve owned… So watch the video and get some good info --- just remember that the procedure may or may not work for your saw… You have to have crowned tires for it to work. Secondly its unnecessary on large saws. Large saws really don't care, just eyeball and go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Lots of really helpful info guys. Thanks alot. Im at qork now for a few hours so i can't work on the saw at all. I will follow the recommendations here and report back tomorrow. Shane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted March 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 So i took the blade of and spun the upper wheel. It makes a clear "tuck a tuck a tuck" sound as it spins. I can grab the top and bottom of the wheel and move it in and out almost 1/8th". I ran the machine with no blade on it and it runs well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted March 13, 2015 Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 I'd call customer support and have the saw replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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