wouldwurker Posted March 20, 2015 Report Share Posted March 20, 2015 Only put two coats on a white oak floating shelf, but I'm really liking this stuff. The manual is by far, the coolest I've read yet. Most it in a nutshell, reads like this: "This is our recommended application method...it works. Here's why. Yes...most other finishes require A, B, and C. We don't. This is why A, B, and C will not work. See our original application method, above" Yes...most other finishes require X, Y, and Z. We don't. This is why X, Y, and Z will not work. See our original application method, above. It's almost like it was written specially for the stubborn woodworker Here's a link to the pdf, but check out this excerpts from the manual: http://www.waterlox.com/project-help/guides/Woodworking.aspx "Finishing methods can be very complicated and far reaching and can include rotten stone, pumice stone, French polish techniques, steel/brass wool, Scotch-Brite®; as well as blending Waterlox to 1 part linseed oil, 1 part turpentine and 1 part ‘ground unicorn horn’ into a “secret method”. The remaining question is “How does it look?” If it looks great, then its okay for you, but it’s not a method that could be taught to an amateur wood worker." "Even on a finely sanded wood surface, there are peaks and valleys as well as spots of hard and soft grain. When you apply the first coat of Waterlox, it’s like snowfall on the mountains. The snow caps the peaks and begins to fill the valleys. If you sand, you will unseal the caps and there will be less to flow to the valleys when you apply the next coat of finish. This will result in the cap being re-sealed again, and will therefore result in less available finish to flow into the valley. If you do not sand, then the next coat will flow away from the sealed caps and do more to fill the valleys. After the third or fourth coat, this self-leveling process is complete" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted March 21, 2015 Report Share Posted March 21, 2015 Gotta hand it to their technical writer, that beats the dry instructions found in most such manuals, hands down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerrySats Posted March 21, 2015 Report Share Posted March 21, 2015 I can't get past the smell of that stuff , it last for days in the shop . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenaqua Posted March 21, 2015 Report Share Posted March 21, 2015 I agree, excellent instructions and directions. I tried using it on a kitchen table but got bubbles in it the 1st time on my 3rd coat. Re sanded and stopped at 2 coats. It is too glossy and I will try and use their semi gloss when I get some time. Probably won't use it again. It is a very strong smelling finish. A respirator is needed which is not enjoyable to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted April 2, 2015 Report Share Posted April 2, 2015 I dig the writing. I just can't get over the month of off gassing. My shop is in my garage where my dogs also sleep in crates. The last time I finished with waterlox, I had to outfit all the dogs with their own respirators. They complained about the colors and fit and it messing up their hair. Just not worth it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted April 2, 2015 Report Share Posted April 2, 2015 Brendon, technically you should have shaved the dogs before fitting the respirators, in order to achieve a proper seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted April 2, 2015 Report Share Posted April 2, 2015 Brendon, technically you should have shaved the dogs before fitting the respirators, in order to achieve a proper seal. dang I knew I forgot something. . Still can't figure out how their tail is supposed to fit through the noise hole. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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