Shaper cut tenons (response to email)


dwacker

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I don't think PB has a shaper, probably just a harbor freight router in an old counter top, not even an insert plate :) seriously though, some people take their hobby waaaay to serious! I know a lot of you guys do this for a living, but that's still overkill!

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I don't think PB has a shaper, probably just a harbor freight router in an old counter top, not even an insert plate :) seriously though, some people take their hobby waaaay to serious! I know a lot of you guys do this for a living, but that's still overkill!

 

I dunno man, the first three tools in our shop were a table saw, shaper, and 735 lunchbox planer.  Granted, we were making paneling for an addition to our house.  I didn't even know we had a router table until three years later!

 

That said, as soon as we're done renovating our kitchen I'm going to try and get my dad to sell the shaper, space hog...

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I don't think PB has a shaper, probably just a harbor freight router in an old counter top, not even an insert plate :) seriously though, some people take their hobby waaaay to serious! I know a lot of you guys do this for a living, but that's still overkill!

 

A shaper is in no way overkill. Granted with my profession its a must but even a hobby shop would benefit. Most that make these comments don't really understand the difference between a shaper and router table.

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A shaper is in no way overkill. Granted with my profession its a must but even a hobby shop would benefit. Most that make these comments don't really understand the difference between a shaper and router table.

I didn't mean the shaper was overkill, I meant the dude who wrote the email, sorry. I honestly don't care if you make your tenons with a poorly trained monkey, it doesn't effect me... Unless your telling me I should get my own monkey :)
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I honestly don't care if you make your tenons with a poorly trained monkey, it doesn't effect me... Unless your telling me I should get my own monkey :)

 

Most that make these comments don't really understand the benefits of monkeys.  But get a good quality monkey; this is one area where you get what you pay for.  A poorly trained monkey does more harm than good.

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PB, a few questions. What shaper is that?

Is that cutter adjustable in the sense that you can move the cutters up and down to dial in a specific tenon thickness?

How much does a cutter like that cost? Are they custom made?

Thanks, I know very little about shapers other than the bits and pieces I get from you on this forum.

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PB, a few questions. What shaper is that?

Is that cutter adjustable in the sense that you can move the cutters up and down to dial in a specific tenon thickness?

How much does a cutter like that cost? Are they custom made?

Thanks, I know very little about shapers other than the bits and pieces I get from you on this forum.

 

Powermatic shaper.

No they are rebate cutters.

$89 ea not custom.

 

The cutters are just rebate cutter. Think of them as a rabbet cutter with scoring blades. They are adjusted by adding spacers between two cutters. Shaper cutters are stackable, so you combine cutters to get the desired results. 

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You clearly are new to woodworking PB. Why was that edge not finished before starting the joinery?

 

 

 

The idea is to not duplicate any process. That board got a short tenon on each end and a groove in each side. You only need to face joint and joint one edge. Cutting the groove mills the unfinished edge and cutting the groove in the other side cuts the board to final width. A couple passes through the drum sander to finish off the board ready for hand sanding. No sense in taking the board all the way down to s4s and then milling the joinery, waist of time and effort.

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The idea is to not duplicate any process. That board got a short tenon on each end and a groove in each side. You only need to face joint and joint one edge. Cutting the groove mills the unfinished edge and cutting the groove in the other side cuts the board to final width. A couple passes through the drum sander to finish off the board ready for hand sanding. No sense in taking the board all the way down to s4s and then milling the joinery, waist of time and effort.

Very cool thinking about all these little efficiency tricks you develop when time is money.

Question though - how do you cut a groove in an unfinished edge? What are you referencing from if the edge isn't straight? Does the power feeder take care of that somehow?

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Very cool thinking about all these little efficiency tricks you develop when time is money.

Question though - how do you cut a groove in an unfinished edge? What are you referencing from if the edge isn't straight? Does the power feeder take care of that somehow?

 

You run the stock between a fence and the cutter head so that your one jointed edge is against the fence. Its called a back fence, really just a scrap of plywood. This operation requires a power feeder.

We only care about the net results. Just like cutting tenons. We don't care about tenon length we only care about the board length between the tenons on each end. For example a 22 1/2" roughly long board needing 20" between the tenons. Just set the tenon cutters to cut just over 1.25 just eyeball it. The fence stop is set to 20" When the board is turned to cut the second tenon there will be a net 20" between the two tenons. Now you have a perfect board with no set up just eyeballing the settings close. Go to the table saw and lop off your tenons which should be close to 1/4" to long each. No repeated steps, no tedious measuring or tenon lay out.

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You run the stock between a fence and the cutter head so that your one jointed edge is against the fence. Its called a back fence, really just a scrap of plywood. This operation requires a power feeder.

We only care about the net results. Just like cutting tenons. We don't care about tenon length we only care about the board length between the tenons on each end. For example a 22 1/2" roughly long board needing 20" between the tenons. Just set the tenon cutters to cut just over 1.25 just eyeball it. The fence stop is set to 20" When the board is turned to cut the second tenon there will be a net 20" between the two tenons. Now you have a perfect board with no set up just eyeballing the settings close. Go to the table saw and lop off your tenons which should be close to 1/4" to long each. No repeated steps, no tedious measuring or tenon lay out.

Very cool. Thanks PB.

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The idea is to not duplicate any process. That board got a short tenon on each end and a groove in each side. You only need to face joint and joint one edge. Cutting the groove mills the unfinished edge and cutting the groove in the other side cuts the board to final width. A couple passes through the drum sander to finish off the board ready for hand sanding. No sense in taking the board all the way down to s4s and then milling the joinery, waist of time and effort.

Hey now, I know better than to question your methods. I was trying to be jovial :)
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