wtnhighlander Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 Anyone have experience doing this? Wet sanding the oil immediately after application? I hear it help fill pores and leaves a silky surface, but I've never talked to anyone that actually did it. I'd be most interested in your experience if you have. Thanks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 Somewhere I remember reading something about this, but I can remember better what was in my first grade reader than the article I read last night in my new FWW mag. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 I scrub wet Watco with a scotch Brite pad to remove sanding scratches that show up after the first coat of oil. It might fill a few pores but it does cut any stray fibers off and leave a nicer smooth surface. Damn humidity made the trim on my conference table take 4- 5 days to dry. I wasn't going to deliver it until there was no chance of the oil rubbing off on a dress shirt ! Client was impressed and kept rubbing the wood trim. 3 very thin coats wiped on and then wiped back after about 5 minutes. First coat 24 hrs, second coat 24 hrs, 3rd coat 3 days ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted March 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 Thanks Steve, I figured you might have dealt with this before. What 'color' Scotchbrite do you prefer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 Depends on how fine you have sanded before oiling. I sanded my mahogany trim on the table to 150 because the client wanted the finish so dark ( finer sanding polishes the grain and it takes less stain) so I used a red pad to remove the cross grain scratches at the miters. After each coat had dried I smoothed any rough spots with a gray pad, lightly! A white pad is good for knocking glossy areas down to a semigloss. A clean brown paper bag is good for buffing up a dull spot. Brown paper bag kinda equals a very high grit sandpaper. I use no wax cause it makes touch ups and recoating in the future difficult. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stobes21 Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 I've done it several times. I pour some Danish oil in a plastic condiment bottle and just keep the surface nice and wet. I sand with 220 wet dry paper usually, though I've used 320 as well and it works fine. After a half hour or so I wipe the surface with rags or paper towels. The idea is to get off any excess oil and slurry from the top but not pull it out of the pores. So I mostly wipe across the grain with very light pressure. Then let dry overnight to 24 hours, depending on temp, and wipe again until your rag doesn't pull any more color. Cover with any oil based varnish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 I do it all the time. Two different scenarios here: Last coat: It's the only way I apply my final (second, usually) coat of Danish oil, and it's awesome. Learned it from a Marc vid. No wrong way or technique...just soak the pad and wipe it on with some elbow grease. Wipe off with a clean rag after 10 minutes. I use a 1000g Abelron pad (Mirka). Wouldn't waste a Festool Platan pad...too expensive. It really makes a huge difference on Mahogany especially. That step stool I made a few months ago feels as smooth as maple. Magic Mirror for mistakes: Steve mentioned this above. When I apply my first coat of DO with a rag, all the glue spots that I missed show up. Right then and there I'll sand out the glue while it's covered in oil. Really important to use whatever final grit you used in your finish prep. If you go up, you'll have a light spot. Learned that the hard way. EDIT: When done, I'll soak the Abelron pad in a clean can with mineral spirits, and give a good shake. Most of the oil will sink to the bottom. It'll dry ok..a little stiff, but it can only apply DO after that...maybe once or twice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted April 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 Thanks guys! Almost ready to put some oil on that sculpted bowl I've been working on. I'll post the results over in the build journal here: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logos Posted April 2, 2015 Report Share Posted April 2, 2015 It's my favorite way to finish small projects! Sand to 150. Then wet sand with 400. Then wet sand with 600. I like to use the watco wax as a final coat and I wet sat that as well. Might be overkill but I like the finished product Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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