Finishing Coat on Butcher Block, but already has de-waxed shellac seal cost


Taser_This

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I just installed some beech butcher block countertops (Ikea Numerar - got in under the wire before they 1 1/2" material was discontinued.)  This project was preceded by first replacing our kitchen table surface with the same Ikea butcher block (using Watco Danish Oil Dark Walnut) and replacing my office desk surface (Gel stain and Polyurethane.)  

 

Now with the corners, I have somewhat of a dilemma.  I was interested in water-based dye stain originally, or a mix of water-based dye stain and wood stain, so at a local woodworking specialty shop, the fellow there convinced me to put down some Zinsser Seal Coat and 50% alcohol, so the water based dye stain would be consistent.  I let him know I intended to use Waterlox Original that they sold.  He thought Watco Danish Oil was a good alternative for the Waterlox, after the stain(s) went down.  I let him know protection from water near the sink and good wear and repairability were key.  I think he suggested the Seal Coat because it is alcohol-based, such that the water-based stain would not effect it.  It did take water-based dye stain better than raw wood.  It was all with good intention.  

 

In any case, I put down the thinned Zinsser Seal Coat because of his adamant advocacy, before selecting a stain.  In the end, I did not use water-based stain because I could not get it down looking right in tests.  Small areas were fine, but larger areas the overlap effect was just not acceptable, and after many tries on scrap, with adding extenders, etc. I gave up.  The butcher block is a large area made into a 'U'.  

 

So I took the easy way out and used Jel'd gel stain in a reasonably acceptable color.  One thing I noticed in tests, was that if I put Watco Danish Oil or Waterlox original over the Zinsser Seal Coat, it, went on like I was putting it on glass, more of less, if it was wiped.  

 

So here I am, with the Zinsser de-waxed Shellac as a base, with gel stain over that.  I need to put a finish on the counters, that shall protect them from regular kitchen counter and sink use as much as possible, and be as repairable as possible.  I guess the question is can I brush Waterlox over this and build it up, or Watco Danish Oil, and with what technique?  Or because the wood is sealed, and the resins cannot get into the grain, are there only other options, or better options, such as 1850 Bowling Alley Polyurethane, or Good Stuff Urethane, or something else?  I would like it to be a long time before I might have to sand this down and refinish, though infrequently wiping on something might be OK.  

 

Putting the Zinsser Seal Cost on for this particular application seems to be a significant misfire, so I am looking for the best way to proceed.  

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Neither finish is going to work well over shellac and a gel stain. Hand rubbed oil finishes need to soak in and harden in the wood, not on top. I just finished mahogany trim on a conference table and I used a commercial acetone based dye that must be sprayed on, followed by a dark chocolate stain and then 3 coats of Watco Dark Walnut Danish oil. In some places the oil removed some of the stain so the finish was kinda varied, but that was the look the client was going for.

It took almost a week to dry after the last coat.

I hate to say it but there might be a lot of sanding and scraping in your future. Or go with a food safe varnish type finish and repairs are going to be much harder.

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So the overcoat of shellac is to create a barrier for preventing an oil based poly from removing the oil based stain?  

 

Would it be reasonable to expect that all these layers add to the probability of a finish failure, on a butcher block that is exposed to moisture regularly, or might all the layers be additive to protection?  

 

 

So the question is what topcoat do you put on over shellac and water based gel stain? I would go with General Finish high performance water based poly. Or put on another coat of shellac and then use an oil based poly of some kind.

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Any suggestions for a specific finish in this particular circumstance?  i was reading about 1850 Bowling Alley Poly and also a Urethane.  Not sure if anything provides significantly better longevity and protection that others in this application.  

 

Neither finish is going to work well over shellac and a gel stain. Hand rubbed oil finishes need to soak in and harden in the wood, not on top. I just finished mahogany trim on a conference table and I used a commercial acetone based dye that must be sprayed on, followed by a dark chocolate stain and then 3 coats of Watco Dark Walnut Danish oil. In some places the oil removed some of the stain so the finish was kinda varied, but that was the look the client was going for.
It took almost a week to dry after the last coat.
I hate to say it but there might be a lot of sanding and scraping in your future. Or go with a food safe varnish type finish and repairs are going to be much harder.

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So the overcoat of shellac is to create a barrier for preventing an oil based poly from removing the oil based stain?  

 

Would it be reasonable to expect that all these layers add to the probability of a finish failure, on a butcher block that is exposed to moisture regularly, or might all the layers be additive to protection?

I believe that the brand of gel stain you used is water based. The general rule is you don't want to mix oil and water based finishes or stains. So I suggested a water based finish. But if the stain is fully dry you can seal it with shellac and then topcoat with an oil based finish. Check the directions on the stain though. It may well say it is fine to topcoat with an oil based poly, in which case you can skip the shellac.

As for durability, shellac is a pretty poor performer by itself and the stain will do little to nothing. Your durability will mostly be determined by your topcoat. A thick topcoat applied as a lot of thin layers will be your best bet.

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