My new Bad Axe Stiletto


Madkrafter

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So I'm heading back to Chicago to visit family and I signed up for Jeff Miller's dovetail class. I've been a woodworker for... :unsure: ...I'm in my 3rd decade. I just never got into making dovetails. I wanted to start building some nice furniture again and thought this class would be a good primer and inspiration.

 

I thought that the class might supply the tools, but I was wrong (don't know why I was thinking that). Coming from out of state, I'll have to ship my tools.

 

Anyway, since I have my trusty old set of Marples chisels, my first priority was the saw. I've had an ear open to the different makers and really debated over spending big money on a saw. I emailed Mark Harrell because I was looking for a Battle Scar but they get swooped up quick and I'll be leaving for Chicago at the end of April, so I don't have time to order a custom one.

 

I got an email back in no time. He was working on a 12" Stiletto that could be shipped out the next day! (talk about great service!) Right there, I decided that I was buying myself my May Birthday present!

 

Bad%20Axe%20Stiletto-02.jpg

 

 

 

Now I just have to get all of the "other" dovetail "stuff" that I've never acquired in all the years I've been doing this hobby.

 

 

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==>Hard Maple

Yea, not an easy practice material…

 

How about something like this to practice: Get a couple sticks of Poplar – mill it to 7/16 leaving components wide and long enough to made several representative drawers. Say 12 of 5”x12” x 7/16 Poplar.

 

My big problem was figuring where I f’ed-up… So I decided to take ½ the joint out of the equation:

 

Used a machine-based method (with a jig) to cut spot-on tailboards, then transferred the tails and cut the pins by hand… With this approach, ½ the joint is dialed-in and you focus on transfer (probably the biggest source of problems) and sawing the pins (the second biggest problem)… I [almost] always use the 140 trick. After figuring-out what went wrong, I just cut-off the pins and started over with the same tailboards…

 

==>Stiletto

Mark makes a great saw... I use his hybrid 12" when gang-cutting and have yet to try the stiletto...... I prefer Gramercy Tool's dovetailer for the pins because it's lighter and more nimble --- but BAT in just about everything else... I'm sure you'll like the saw...

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==>^^^

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/joinery/four-reasons-for-tails-first-dovetails

http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/before-you-reach-for-that-dovetail-saw.html

 

Assists tails transfer...

 

Should be noted that CS has very recently backed-away from teaching the 140 trick (although he still uses it himself)... The argument is interesting, and there is a thread on it both here and on LJ… But I think it depends on what you use to cut the rebate.. If you have the LN or Stanley (without a depth stop), then I agree… However, with a depth stop (Veritas rebate or moving fillister plane), then I don’t… Note: CS uses a moving fillister… and so do I… I suspect LN will re-engineer their skew-rebate to add a depth stop in the future (like they did to add nickers) -- then it would be perfect...

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My one and only set of dovetails is on my workbench that I build 20 years ago. Four drawers and from 1 to 4, you can really see the progression of me going from utter crap to OK-ish-ish-ish! The nice thing is Jeff said he teaches traditional plus some cool jigs to use on the bandsaw to do hybrid dovetails.

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Nice! I recently placed my order with Bad Axe. I almost went for the Stiletto but was talked into the Tenon and the Hybrid dT/small tenon. The recently restored a pre-civil way Disston 8" for me and it's fantastic. As much as I try to tell myself that all of my saw needs will be handled, I know that Stiletto is going to haunt my dreams.

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