Saving Bigfoot

[Just Bob]

We bought this property from the estate of a logger that was killed in a logging accident.  He was also a chainsaw carver, and there were a number of carvings on the property.  The property sat on the market for 6 years, and because of the neglect/weather most of the carvings have rotted.  I was able to  put bigfoot under cover and my wife and I would really like to preserve and display him.  The base is rotted and I am using Minwax wood hardener to stop the rot, but I need ideas on what to use to save the rest.  I am planning on using a spar varnish, but I don't know if that is the best way to go.  It is very fragile and I can't clean it so I have to finish over the grime.  I think the best way to apply a finish is spraying but I don't have any spray equipment and need suggestions on that as well.  So what would you do and how would you do it?

[Coop]

Bob, that would be such a neat legacy to save. Here, they're trying to figure out how to save theBattleship Texas and the Astro Dome for hundreds of millions, hope you have better luck than they're having!

[wtnhighlander]

I would be concerned that any finish you use won't adhere to a very dirty surface. I suggest using a medium bristle brush to sweep away as much of the surface grime as possible. Since you don't have spray equipment, you could try this:

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Varathane-11-oz-Satin-Spar-Varnish-Spray-Paint-266330/203368639

Or you could use a brush to flood on several coats of spar urathane, with the first coat or three diluted 50/50 with mineral spirits, to aid in absorbtion.

[Boatworks Today]

Hey Bob, 

 

Personally I wouldn't bother with a "finish" as the first step.  You're dealing with wood that is somewhat deteriorated and needs to be stabilized.  A thinned epoxy is going to be your best option.  Once the fibers are encased and preserved then you can look into finishes.  There are "penetrating" epoxies such as CPES, but I think if it were me I'd give West System a call and explain the project to see what they recommend for thinning their product (with a solvent for the initial coats).

 

I mention West System as a personal bias; it's what I use (a lot of) and they have been around longer than any other brand I am aware of (meaning there's an established track record there)....  Granted you're application is different than how I need epoxy to function, but regardless of the brand you choose; a thinned / penetrating epoxy with UV properties is what you're looking for.  If you decide to go with West, make sure to use their 207 hardener .

 

Good luck, that was a great find! 

[Stobes21]

How bad is the wood? I've used the behr brand deck cleaner on some different exterior wood around the house and it works well to remove dirt, grime, and mildew without having to abrade the surface at all. You just wet it with water, spray or brush it on, and then hose it off. I've found a plastic bristle brush helps a lot too. This would get the surface clean-ish and much more likely to hold a finish.

Also, that is super cool and I'd love to see pics when you get it restored/repaired.

[Just Bob]

Thanks for the replies.  The wood is cedar and there are places that if I am  not very careful will be destroyed just by touching it.  I really like the epoxy idea, kind of irritated with myself for not thinking of it, and will give West System a call. This is a summer time project (no rain) at close to 7 ft tall finding a spot in my shop for it is a problem.