First Table Saw


djliegel

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The ABC's of Table Saws

If you don't need to move the saw from jobsite to jobsite, I wouldn't sacrifice the benefits of a full size saw in favor of a portable. I'd go with a full size stationary saw with a belt drive induction motor.

I'd be leery of the R4512, Cman 21833, and the Grizzly G0715P...all have nearly identical trunnion design, and nearly identical histories of alignment issues. Many times I've read the issues have been resolved, and many times it has proven to not be the case. Buyer beware with those models. I'd look into the Delta 36-725 or the Grizzly G0771 for a new saw in that price range. Otherwise, I'd keep my eyes peeled for a good used saw.

Are the alignment issues due to where the trunnions are attached or just a faulty equipment?
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Just an fyi, as I literally just went through this and ended up with the 36-725.. I chose Delta for the following reasons:

 

1. Nearest Home Depot was an hour away, which means issues if something was wrong

2. I hear that the alignment issues are hit & miss on the R4512. Rigid says they fixed it completely but I read reviews as recent as last week that said they got a bad one and the only thing you can really do is return it and see if the next one has the same problem.

3. The Delta fence appears to be far superior, and in fact way above where it should be for a saw in this price range.

 

I've only had it a few days, but even with the stock blade (my other blade apparently was a thin kerf so I need a new one) on it, it's better than my 29 year old Craftsman, and the safety equipment makes it worth it over any older saw for me. (I'm a programmer and need dem fingers)

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Well in a not terribly surprising turn of events I miss that super deal.  So I am left with a saw like this http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/tls/4944127560.html

 

Or getting the Delta 36-725.  So I am trying to determine how much things like a riving knife and better dust collection possibilities matter to me vs say getting that and having some money for upgrades and maybe a lunchbox planer.  I would be more likely to update that saw sooner as well.

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Well in a not terribly surprising turn of events I miss that super deal.  So I am left with a saw like this http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/tls/4944127560.html

 

Or getting the Delta 36-725.  So I am trying to determine how much things like a riving knife and better dust collection possibilities matter to me vs say getting that and having some money for upgrades and maybe a lunchbox planer.  I would be more likely to update that saw sooner as well.

   What are your fingers worth, Oh, and how bout those lungs, are they important?  You figure it out!

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Well in a not terribly surprising turn of events I miss that super deal.  So I am left with a saw like this http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/tls/4944127560.html

 

Or getting the Delta 36-725.  So I am trying to determine how much things like a riving knife and better dust collection possibilities matter to me vs say getting that and having some money for upgrades and maybe a lunchbox planer.  I would be more likely to update that saw sooner as well.

 

I'd see if Lee Craft (http://www.leecraftzeroclearance.com/) has zero clearance inserts for that saw, or make your own (I was and still am pretty unsure of my skillset on doing that) and get the MicroJig splitters. If you choose to go that route. I personally would rather spend upgrade money on a newer saw that starts with a higher baseline of features, rather than have to bring an old one up to that level (level being - riving knife, nice fence, etc.)

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I'd see if Lee Craft (http://www.leecraftzeroclearance.com/) has zero clearance inserts for that saw, or make your own (I was and still am pretty unsure of my skillset on doing that) and get the MicroJig splitters. If you choose to go that route. I personally would rather spend upgrade money on a newer saw that starts with a higher baseline of features, rather than have to bring an old one up to that level (level being - riving knife, nice fence, etc.)

Well I am not sure how much better the modern fences are on this level saw vs what they had on them 20 years ago. So an upgraded fence could be better than the fence would be on a new saw.  

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Well in a not terribly surprising turn of events I miss that super deal.  So I am left with a saw like this http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/tls/4944127560.html

 

Or getting the Delta 36-725.  So I am trying to determine how much things like a riving knife and better dust collection possibilities matter to me vs say getting that and having some money for upgrades and maybe a lunchbox planer.  I would be more likely to update that saw sooner as well.

 

That old Cman has potential, but considering that you'd want to add a fence to it, they're asking too much IMO.  I see similar saws go for half that.  So.... either be patient and find another deal, or grab the Delta 36-725....good fence, good DC, riving knife, warranty, and a solid reputation for ~ $550....less if you can grab a discount.  

 

There's a new listing on CL for a Ridgid 3650.....the asking price of $380 is too much IMO, but at $300 that'd be a nice deal on a nice saw.....use the rust, and lack of warranty and riving knife as negotiating points.  That should clean up pretty nicely.

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Well I am not sure how much better the modern fences are on this level saw vs what they had on them 20 years ago. So an upgraded fence could be better than the fence would be on a new saw.  

 

My old Craftsman fence was garbage. You had to measure at the front, back to get it square when locking down. then measure again, and of course it changed so you go through it again.

 

The delta has a great fence. Like I said, my research seemed to indicate that it was far better than a saw in this price point should have. That was a big reason i got it.

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That old Cman has potential, but considering that you'd want to add a fence to it, they're asking too much IMO.  I see similar saws go for half that.  So.... either be patient and find another deal, or grab the Delta 36-725....good fence, good DC, riving knife, warranty, and a solid reputation for ~ $550....less if you can grab a discount.  

 

There's a new listing on CL for a Ridgid 3650.....the asking price of $380 is too much IMO, but at $300 that'd be a nice deal on a nice saw.....use the rust, and lack of warranty and riving knife as negotiating points.  That should clean up pretty nicely.

 

Speaking of discounts, Lowes gives 10% off for former and current military as long as you have the id picture card.

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There have been a lot of good advice on this topic. I will ad this little thought, since you are in a basement workshop, make sure it is on wheels.  I am in a small garage workshop and have an old Dewalt contractor saw and it is a pain to set up and take down.  If you can I would put the extra money in a bettter saw than contractor grade.

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I'll count as one who swears BY my Ridgid contractor saw, but mine is an older one. I hear the newer ones are still pretty good. Definitely try to get something with a cast iron top, rather than a benchtop saw made of plastic and aluminim.

RichardA has a great point about dust collection, though. The typical contractor saw has too many openings in the housing for DC to work very well, so be prepared to take extra steps, especially in a basement workshop.

If you can tell us more about your workspace, perhaps we can offer options on bow to deal with the dust, as well.

Can you suggest any reliable dust collector that isn't too pricey? I had no idea that dust collection could be as expensive or even more than the machines you run.

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Can you suggest any reliable dust collector that isn't too pricey? I had no idea that dust collection could be as expensive or even more than the machines you run.

No personal experiance so take it for what it's worth but there an awful lot of positive reviews on the harbor freight dust collector. It's probably the cheapest one out there, it's under $200 I believe.
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I managed to acquire a used Delta DC at the same time I got my saw, but those HF units are supposed to be a good value for the money. One mistake some folks make is to have expectations far above what the equipment is capable of. A 2hp dust collector from Harbor Freight will do a decent job of sucking the dust from a single machine. It probably won't do such a great job of sucking a whole shop full of ducted machines, even with blast gates closed on everything you aren't using. Also, understand the limitations of the filter bag. If your workspace is tightly coupled to your living space, dust collection is a BIG deal. If you are like me, just roll your machines into the driveway, and collect dust with a broom afterwards.

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I managed to acquire a used Delta DC at the same time I got my saw, but those HF units are supposed to be a good value for the money. One mistake some folks make is to have expectations far above what the equipment is capable of. A 2hp dust collector from Harbor Freight will do a decent job of sucking the dust from a single machine. It probably won't do such a great job of sucking a whole shop full of ducted machines, even with blast gates closed on everything you aren't using. Also, understand the limitations of the filter bag. If your workspace is tightly coupled to your living space, dust collection is a BIG deal. If you are like me, just roll your machines into the driveway, and collect dust with a broom afterwards.

Would there be any problem with switching from to machine to machine except for it being time consuming?

I also saw on cl a mini cyclone cv06 for sale. I was wondering if it was worth purchasing when you would still need to have suction behind that machine.

Here's the link: http://burlington.craigslist.org/tld/4967381837.html

Thanks

I'm thinking I should probably start a new thread since I'm no longer talking about a new table saw.

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Switching the hose is just an inconvenience.

The cyclone helps seperate the heavier chips from the fine dust, and keeps you from emptying the bag so often. As far as I can tell, it doesn't really help reduce the amount of dust that makes it through the filter, unless you add a finer filter bag, too.

Another option that works for some folks is exhausting to outdoors, no filter needed, especially if you have a cyclone dropping out the bigger stuff.

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