Question about building a Farmhouse style table:


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I am building a large farmhouse style table.  The ends of the table will be a breadboard style and some previous blogs and videos at woodwhisper have helped me understand how construct these.  However, I am uncertain about how expansion will impact the central field of the table.  On each edge, I am using 8/4 hickory to give the appearance  that the entire table is 2" thick but in between the 8/4 hickory I will use 4/4, in order to reduce the cost and weight of the table. Here is my question, will the 4/4 and 8/4 hickory expand and contract at the same rate?  Can I just biscuit joint the different widths together since the grain is all running in the same direction or do I need to rabbet the 4/4 into a dado in the 8/4? My concern with the rabbet is that I do not want a gap to develop over time.  Can anyone help me understand how I should handle this?  I am pretty new to this, so any advice will be appreciated. Thanks again.
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What are the finished dimensions of the table? And what material are you using? In my opinion, true 4/4 is too thin for a table with any decent width or heft.

There are a few different Internet calculators that allow you to enter your material and info and it will tell you how much to allow for movement.

To answer your question, biscuits will work to connect the 8/4 to 4/4 if you must go that route.

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Sorry, I didn't explain this well.  The finished dimensions of the table will be 96" by 42". It is all made out of solid hickory.  I do understand what you are saying about the 4/4 but I was thinking of adding some plywood rails underneath the table to provide additional support.  The reason that I didn't want to go any larger is because I built a smaller version last year and it is very heavy, so this table is going to be even heavier.  I know that the table will move across the grain, so I think that should be able to glue it all up, and then attach the 2 8/4 pieces using the same glue and biscuits method.  As long as I get the breadboards ends correct, it should be able to expand and shrink as a whole unit....I think.  I am just nervous because this project is for a friend and I don't want there to be problems down the road.

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If I was to take that approach, I would glue up all the 4/4 and run hardwood rails under at close intervals. The rails would have a kerf (standard) cut 7/16 from the top on each side with z clips staggered. i would then add the 8/4 trying to level it as much to the top as possible them add breadboard. The z clips would allow expansion while holding it securely from bowing excessively if attached to a proper base.

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Sterling, please don't let this scare you away, but be prepared...the body of tbe tabletop WILL expand and/or contract differently from the breadboard. As long as you account for this, to avoid any joints that try to resist that movement, the worst is that you will see an offset between the breadboards and the panel ends. Do it wrong, and you end up with a cracked tabletop.

One of the nice things about the offsets and shadow lines often seen in Greene & Greene style furniture is that those same features are excellent at disguising the effects of wood movemement. Go figure.

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