Using dominos for breadboard ends?


rubus

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Hi folks,

Just wondering what the thoughts are on using the df 500 for breadboard ends? Typical method of glueing the middle domino and boring through the others with a pin driven through to keep it tight. As usual, trying to save time.......

Thanks

Shane

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I've done it with the 700xl on an outdoor dining set -- executed the week the XL was released -- you'd have to check the dates, but 2 years ago? Three? Don’t remember… Dining set outdoors ever since – no gaps, no spaces, no cracks, no issues…

 

Used max 700 settings (14mm x 75mm -- something like that) and tenons of the same material as the tabletop... Used 206 and pre-drilled ovals in the breadboard side -- pinned the BB ends – adhesive on the BB-center pin only...

 

I wouldn't use the 500...

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I usually use dominos for almost everything but not for a breadboard end. The crack could open and moisture run through. Plus any wood movement other than width would stress and crack the domino mortices. Not a good idea in my opinion .

I am building a 42" wide table 4/4 walnut. Do you think not having a breadboard is a bad idea?

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==>Tight mortise and glue in the middle, wide mortises/no glue for the rest
Better description...

 

 

==>Sprung joint to bring it in tight.
I drawbored my ends...

 

 

If I were to do it again, I’d use Steve’s ‘wide setting trick' to get wider tenons... The 700 gives you ample depth (which is the big issue with the 500), but width is still an issue...

 

BTW: I just took delivery of the Seneca’s kits for the 700 – the 6mm bit, the 500 bit adapter, and imperial gauge and the shims... I think this is the setup best suited to full sized furniture... The 500 is better for picture frames, smaller boxes, etc... If the 700 offered wider tenons, I’d marry it... :) 

 

I suspect a 900XXL will come along and offer wider and thinker dominos – I’d adopt that one... :)

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==>Tight mortise and glue in the middle, wide mortises/no glue for the rest

Better description...

==>Sprung joint to bring it in tight.

I drawbored my ends...

If I were to do it again, I’d use Steve’s ‘wide setting trick' to get wider tenons... The 700 gives you ample depth (which is the big issue with the 500), but width is still an issue...

BTW: I just took delivery of the Seneca’s kits for the 700 – the 6mm bit, the 500 bit adapter, and imperial gauge and the shims... I think this is the setup best suited to full sized furniture... The 500 is better for picture frames, smaller boxes, etc... If the 700 offered wider tenons, I’d marry it... :)

I suspect a 900XXL will come along and offer wider and thinker dominos – I’d adopt that one... :)

When you adopt the 900xxl, I'll keep your 700 company so it doesn't get lonely
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On more serious note I think loose tenons in general are not the best option for a larger table top. With the dominos width will be an issue so the wider the better. The dowel holes need to be elongated and depending on the wood they may need some pretty wide slots. Eventually I think the glue side of the tenon will fail especially if the dowel slots are sprung or draw bored.

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==>Eventually I think the glue side of the tenon will fail especially if the dowel slots are sprung or draw bored.

Exactly...

 

I decided to go with 206/404 structural bonding mix -- it's not going anywhere... So far, survived two Hurricanes, couple of tropical storms and a lot of snow --- still as tight as the day it was assembled... I slotted the tenon, then ised a syringe for the mix and used waxilit... Let it all setup, then drove the pins... It's solid -- I did it as an experiement -- if it failed, I would have redune it sans domino -- but it's been solid...

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