Using raw linseed oil


dausone

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  • 4 weeks later...

Thanks wtnhighlander! It took a minute to get these results and am still improving on things. Here is an example of the wax finish on the left compared with non wax finish. I burnished with 0000 steel wool and buffed on about 3 coats of wax. Pretty great stuff and knocked the sheen down to a beautiful soft glow. And this is all on beech. Will post the results on solid walnut soon. Excited.

 

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  • 8 months later...

Another update for anyone following this journey, a year later and I have developed a complete line of varnishes including an exterior spar varnish for retail sale. It seems that a lot of other folks were just as interested as I was in having a quality varnish here in Vietnam... so... I followed suit and made it happen.

I have three formulas all made with raw tung oil. A tung oil finish (similar to a long oil/ danish oil type wipe on finish), topcoat (a fast drying more durable varnish for tabletops), and exterior spar varnish with UV absorbers. The resin I am using is a modified urethane alkyd, soy oil based which is water clear and doesn't yellow over time (durable stuff, made for parquet flooring). I do add a bit of double boiled linseed strictly for leveling and workability and a bit of modified wax for the semi-gloss sheen formulas. If I had to compare, I would say this is in between an Arm R Seal and Waterlox.

Working with four factories now and specialized builders. Great results on reclaimed live edge slabs to veneers and everything in between. Anyway, pictures say more than words and time and use is the real test which is still continuing. Extremely proud of these products!!

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On 5/8/2016 at 8:33 PM, wtnhighlander said:

Wow, those samples look great! Do you think production will grow to the point where we might find your product sold here in the states?

wtnhighlander, yes! I am working on this. Changing the formula for VOC regulations is very easy. Getting the proper permits and doing the certification testing is costly so baby steps. I am thinking 2 years minimum unless I get an influx of investment. Will also be undergoing testing certification for labeling my varnish as food safe and non toxic on fully cured surfaces. Btw, I will be including ALL materials used in my formulas in the ingredients list right on the can to clear up any confusion as to what is inside with details on composition and amount of oils used.

On 5/8/2016 at 6:45 PM, C Shaffer said:

You are talking way beyond my current ability to understand but I have enjoyed trying to follow. Thanks for posting this, your results look good!

Haha. Thanks C Shaffer. Am more than happy with the results and others are too! I am not a chemist by trade so this is all new to me.

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  • 11 months later...

Hey guys,

its been a while since the last post. Almost a year to the day. A lot has happened production-wise, testing, and a lot of real world usage. Here is our official product launch! 

www.LCoFinishes.com

The wonderful thing about our duo of products, which are traditional oil based wiping varnishes, are that the two parts work in conjunction with each other to give you the best of what a high oil content finish can give you with the added durability of a superior parquet floor grade topcoat.

Another unique quality is the wax that we use. Unlike traditional waxes like carnauba or beeswax which tend to form a sticky gummy film that attracts dirt over time and make refinishing impossible without stripping off the old varnish, our modified wax is completely silky smooth to the touch, improves scratch resistance and you can easily refresh the piece with no problems whatsoever. I can go on and on... a lot of work has gone into this and we are extremely proud. We hope to be bringing it state-side in the near future and we have much more product developments to announce soon including a 'hard wax oil' with no solvents and a complete line of tung oil based color! :)

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