cahudson42 Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 Any thoughts on 'pluses and minuses' of a Shinto Rasp vs. the $$$ French hand stitched? I have a 6/4 Norm 'Rocking Horse Head' of Cherry which needs a lot of work to remove the bandsaw marks and shape with a variably rounded edge... I have more time than money - so I'm interested in 'how well this will do the job' vs. the French rasps. End result - not time it takes. Any thoughts, things to do, things to NOT do, tips - whatever - greatly appreciated! Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisphr Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 I'm interested what everyone says about the rasps, those are shokingly expensive. I might tackle this project with a sander similar to this one. I use this thing on virtually every project. http://t.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-Oscillating-Edge-Belt-Spindle-Sander-EB4424/100061671?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CBase&gclid=CNSSk9exm8UCFYEjgQod-EUAWg&gclsrc=aw.ds/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisphr Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 Oops, sorry. Didn't notice this was posted in the hand tools section. My bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 I have more time than money - For removing BS marks and light contouring, I'd try sandpaper first. I might start at 80 to get the bulk of the contouring done and move up from there. On long curves, fix the sandpaper to a piece of something flexible so you don't inadvertently gouge the work. I'm not familiar with the project you are making, but judging from the photo it shouldn't take too long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 I haven't used the Japanese rasps so I can't offer a comparison. But I can tell you the hand-stitched rasps are worth every penny if you do any shaping in your work. I had no idea how a rasp was supposed to work until I used one...wood just melts under them. Smooth, clean cuts but they remove material quickly. I have about a dozen of the Aurious now and love every one. If you enjoy hand tools and the direct feedback between wood and steel, there are few tools that are more satisfying to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nub Thumb Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 I have a couple of Aurious rasps. A 9 grain and a 13. They cut great and don't take much to clean up after. I think the two biggest pluses are feel and finish. You definitely can get by with a cheaper tool, but if you do much rasp work, I'd really consider putting a little money back and picking one up eventually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgreenb Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 I haven't used the Japanese rasps so I can't offer a comparison. But I can tell you the hand-stitched rasps are worth every penny if you do any shaping in your work. I had no idea how a rasp was supposed to work until I used one...wood just melts under them. Smooth, clean cuts but they remove material quickly. I have about a dozen of the Aurious now and love every one. If you enjoy hand tools and the direct feedback between wood and steel, there are few tools that are more satisfying to use. This. I have exactly one rasp - an Auriou #9 grain. It's literally one of my favorite tools to use because it's so easy, intuitive, and well made. Like Eric I didn't understand what a rasp was supposed to feel like until I used this one. I had a couple other cheap rasps that I literally threw in the trash once I used the Auriou. It's just like when people say "I didn't know that this is how a hand plane is supposed to cut until I got a premium well tuned plane." Same idea here. I've never used the Japanese ones either, but I can definitely vouch for the Auriou. They are a joy to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arminius Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 I have the Shinto, and a few Liogier in finer grains. I like both tools, and my experience is probably skewed by the fact that my Liogier are finer finish. I have mostly used my Shinto for shaping paddle blades, the rough side is really quite a nice tool for material removal while still leaving a reasonable finish. Except for very flat/broad surfaces, I prefer the French rasps to the fine side of the Shinto when it comes to finishing work. In terms of straight enjoyment of use, definitely the Liogier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekcohen Posted April 30, 2015 Report Share Posted April 30, 2015 I have the Shinto rasp as well as Auriou rasps. The Shinto is excellent. Being double-sided it has a coarse and a finer side. It will not get the work as smooth as the finer Aurious, but it wastes wood very rapidly, which is how I used it .. I'd say that the Shinto was not as coarse as the Auriou 10 grain, but still managed to work as quickly. Regards from Perth Derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted May 1, 2015 Report Share Posted May 1, 2015 The Shinto rasp is great if you don't have any tight inside curves. I love mine, but it has its downfalls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilgaron Posted May 1, 2015 Report Share Posted May 1, 2015 I have the Shinto and a Nicholson and it is nice that the Shinto cannot clog due to its design. For inside curves its shape is lacking, but it is hard to beat otherwise. You could also consider a drawknife or spokeshave for the roundovers, but I can say that the learning curve is steeper. I am not satisfied with my skill with my spokeshaves yet. It is tricky to keep the grain direction in mind when going around curves. I imagine it is easier once this becomes more automatic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekcohen Posted May 1, 2015 Report Share Posted May 1, 2015 I think that you will cope with those insight curves using the Shinto. Recognise that you will still need to sand the surface left behind the fine side. These rasps are difficult to grip with two hands, and in the end I added a grip at the far end. Much of this chair was shaped with rasps ... Regards from Perth Derek 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cahudson42 Posted May 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2015 Wow! Thanks for all the great comments, pictures, and advice. I've saved all my bandsaw cutoffs from the horsehead, found the Shinto S on Amazon for $18.50 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AX0X12), sharpened my card scrapers and spokeshave blade, and still need to refresh my sandpaper supply - but expect to give it a shot later next week. Never really done any shaping like this - so it will be interesting. But with all the great tips - I'm looking forward to it. Thanks again! Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted May 1, 2015 Report Share Posted May 1, 2015 Beautiful chair Derek! Thanks for the insight on the Shinto! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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