Expanding my finishing repitoire - questions


rodger.

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This year I decided that I would expand my finishing repitoire. Up until this point, I have mainly been a poly user. I often spray GF high performance poly with great results. In the winter, I use wipe on oil poly (also with great results). Those are my "go-to" finishes, but I recently expanded in using more oil finishes (watco and pure oils).

I have always wanted to try lacquer, as Marc always sings its praises on his videos. I also really liked the idea of a fast drying finish that I could apply in a day, and avoid bugs in the completed project. I was nervous to try lacquer mainly due to its high toxicity and dangerous nature.

So I decided to go out of my comfort zone. I did a lot of research, and talked to a few finish companies. All of them pointed me towards chemcraft pre cat lacquer. I bought 4L of 355 335, in the satin finish. I also bought some thinner specifically designed for this lacquer.

Today I sprayed some on a few frames (no thinning) and I really liked how fast it dried. I got multiple coats on both back and front in half a day.

Here are a couple questions:

1) does precat lacquer "burn into" the previous coat?

2) I use a NIOSH p100 particulate mask with organic vapour cartridge on a 3m respirator (and I spray outdoors) - any safety concerns?

3) the can has a massive fire warning on it. Can I store it in my unconditioned garage shop? In my shed?

4) How many coats is typically enough with lacquer? Looks like about 4 I would guess.

5) can I leave some in my gun overnight if I plan on using next day?

6) can I pour unused finish from my gun back into the can for future use?

7) am I being ridiculous for spraying such a toxic finish when other optons are available?

Here is its description

http://chemcraft.com/index.php/en/documents/public/public-pis/ca-pis/2089-can-pis-355-3xx-es-lacquer-pre-cat-clear-tc-pdf/file

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I'll take a stab at a few of those for you Pug..

 

1 - Yes

2 - Your respirator is fine!

3 - You should always store that stuff in those bins designed to store them.  That said, they're expensive and many people don't.  I know I have a gallon of it in a regular cupboard.

4 - I shot 4 coats on that black table and it seemed to be plenty

5 - I would not leave it in the gun over night

6 - I would not pour back into the can

7 - No, you are not.  Fact is that it's a great finish!

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A respirator alone is not enough. Some will argue it is but its not period. If your spaying outdoors you should be fine health wise but it's illegal.

Can you leave in your gun. Of course depending on the gun. But don't pour it back into the can. Secondly with satin it's important to mix the flattener back into suspension prior to spraying. As to how many coats read the PDS. Most will state dry mil suggested thickness and maximum. Just calculate solids in wet coat and you will be close. Will the lacquer burn in to the previous coat the answer is yes and no. There is a time period for re spray if you surpass this time it will not. Yes you can store in your garage just don't store so much that if you had a fire you blow up the entire house use common sense.

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Good point PB, 3m respirators are not guaranteed against catalyzed finishes. Skin exposed to it as well, including eyes is not the best. If you want to be as safe as possible, buck up the cas for a fresh air system. And one more thing, as fast as this stuff dries, wait the proper time to recoat. When you hammer on solvent finishes too fast, the previous coat can't evacuate solvents properly, your finished product could end up with solvent pop. Just figured Id mention it because people seem to get excited and think they can just bang it out real quick. 

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Okay, you guys are making me nervous!  My primary concern is safety, so if spraying outdoors with a 3M OV and P100 is not enough, then pre cat lacquer cannot be right for me (even if it provides a superior finish).

 

Maybe I'll just finish off this can before its shelf life is over (6 mos) and then go back to poly.

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Don is correct!  You have to know what the MDS says!

 

As for the respirator, I took into consideration that you were spraying outdoors so, it's fine for that.  Indoors with less ventilation would be a different story.

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Okay, you guys are making me nervous! My primary concern is safety, so if spraying outdoors with a 3M OV and P100 is not enough, then pre cat lacquer cannot be right for me (even if it provides a superior finish).

Maybe I'll just finish off this can before its shelf life is over (6 mos) and then go back to poly.

Your fine for spraying outdoor or indoors with proper forced air ventilation. The thing about outdoors is that it's illegal. So if the vapors piss off the neighbors it could cause problems.

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Pug lives in Canada where the air is cleaner, so his priorities haven't been tainted.  If you live in a city like St. Louis, you kind of stop worrying about what you're breathing.  Bubba's diesel and the smelting factories, Callaway nuclear power plant is about a hundred miles due west of us.  VOCs are like vitamins around here.

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With all professional finishes the big thing is to read the PDS. Notice the viscosity. Out of the can at 77 it's 43 and the application viscosity should be about 22. Max film is four mils dry. So do the math based on thinning and solids by volume.

So I should cut it 50/50 with thinner?

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Pug lives in Canada where the air is cleaner, so his priorities haven't been tainted.  If you live in a city like St. Louis, you kind of stop worrying about what you're breathing.  Bubba's diesel and the smelting factories, Callaway nuclear power plant is about a hundred miles due west of us.  VOCs are like vitamins around here.

 

Reminds me of my old friend Frank Rizzo.  He was a career insulator and used to say: "Asbestos.... it don't bother me.  I eat that [crap] for breakfast"

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