At a loss.....dark (black) cherry


Snibley

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In completing a dark cherry shadow box, I was told that for filling in corner gaps or trim gaps ...it in this case braid nail holes, that walnut wood filler will hide or blend where it won't be noticed. Unfortunately the dark wood is showing the wood filler so much that I think I might have to start this project over, but due to a deadline this option is not preferable. I was trying to stain the cherry (I used red mahogany) so it would not show the wood filler but the brad holes are very noticeable. I was actually going to try and dig out the walnut wood filler to maybe use something else but that seems like a lot of tedious work with not knowing if the end result will prove satisfactory. Does anyone have any ideas on how I can save this project so that these holes are not noticeable. Wood gel varnish work...I have never used it?

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I would use epoxy, and when mixing the epoxy add a few drops of the stain to it. Then apply the stained epoxy to the holes. Sand as per normal and finish.

Option 2 - leave the holes unfilled until your finish cures. Then use a wax stick to fill them in.

Like steve always says, test on scrap first!

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I use " Color Putty" dig out the filler, slight depth is ok. Color putty comes in many shades and can be mixed. It stays semi soft so it goes in nail holes after the stain and finish has dried.

Always make a test finish sample using the exact steps you intend for the piece, sand the same grits, use the same filler etc. Find out that the filler doesn't stain dark enough on the test, not the project.

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I'll just say it...filler is never "unnoticeable."  Whether it's putty or epoxy or sawdust and glue or spit and dirt.  Which is why you don't use nails.  This is no help for you right now, I know...but for future reference - reinforce your joinery some other way.  Nails holes just be ugly...no way around it.

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==>cherry shadow box....  walnut wood filler.
Cherry darkens over time... In several years, it’ll be much harder to detect a Walnut-tint...

 

==>filler is never "unnoticeable."
Spot-on...

 

 

==>you don't use nails
Well...  

 

Nails were/are frequently used in period pieces to attach moldings and other miscellaneous cross-grain tasks (nails bend with seasonal %RH, screws deform once and don't spring-back). The trick is to conceal them... You can become rather creative...

 

For example, if the nails are evenly distributed, you can turn them into a feature... Set the nail with a #2 Robertson drive bit, then fill the void with 1/8” square Gaboon Ebony plugs --- just claim its "G&G-inspired".... :)

 

I've done this on at least a half-dozen pieces, works great...

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Nails were/are frequently used in period pieces to attach moldings and other miscellaneous cross-grain tasks

 

True.  Let's have this conversation again 200 years ago and I'll probably be more flexible. :D

 

Plugging screw or nail holes a la G&G or Maloof chair joints and filling holes with goo are two different ball games.  I'm cool with one of 'em. :)

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==>goo are two different ball games.  I'm cool with one of 'em. :)

I'm with that...

 

==>Let's have this conversation again 200 years ago and I'll probably be more flexible. :D

I deal with 200yo pieces with cross-grain moldings reinforced with nails quite frequently... It works well -- very well... You apply hide glue from the front corner to about a third along the edge (keeps the miter tight), then set a nail at around mid-way along, then at the back... You can then apply another molding to cover --- you're now going long-grain to long-grain...  Done all the time... The glue joint fails long before the cross-grain nails...

 

Modern woodworkers seem to disdain nails --- suspect it’s because they don’t know how to use them properly... It’s a tool in the toolbox, just like any other -- can be used well or not – depends on the craftsman...

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Modern woodworkers seem to disdain nails --- suspect it’s because they don’t know how to use them properly...

 

Guilty.

 

If I built period pieces I'm sure I'd get on board with the methods of the period.  But I don't, so I guess I'll keep my hammer in the DIY tool box and my nose in the air. :)

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Just a tool/technique -- someday you might be interested in applying moldings to a modern piece -- it's a good tool/technique to have in the toolbox...

 

If you visit one of the Shaker museums, you'd be surprised just bow many pieces remain together by nails alone (the glue having failed years before) – and you wouldn’t know it unless the guide points it out... The piece is just fine....

 

A nail placed by a craftsman who knows what they are doing is hard to detect and holds very well for centuries – and the nightmare of everyone comming along later...

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Well I thought I would update this issue, this afternoon I started experimenting with basically every aspect that was suggested with the exception of going for the G&G method as this was not an option. Needless to say ( and as I suspected, and was told) I could not match the filler be it the walnut, color puddy or wood glue. So as I bowed my head in defeat, I set the table saw and router table up and made a new face frame for the shadow box.....but learned a lesson and after all isn't that why we do this crazy stuff.

Thanks again

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Not that it helps with the brads, but there are decorative nails, too, for future reference.  Rosehead copper nails look nice and can be gun-blued.  I've not tried rosehead cut nails or forge head nails but I can see how they could be used in appealing ways as well.

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