wtnhighlander Posted May 26, 2015 Report Share Posted May 26, 2015 Being bored, and needing a stool for my new stand-up computer workstation. I decided to try to design something that would fit my adjustability requirements, be relatively simple to build, and be made from nothing but wood and glue. Having a bunch of pine lumber and 2x4s on hand, I set to work. I took inspiration from the jack stands in my garage, and planned the adjustable mechanism to work on a ratchet & pawl of some sort. First I made a rectangular tube of 3/4" pine, and ripped down a 2x4 to act as the sliding center post. The tube is just long grain butt joints and glue. Once it was dry, I cleaned up the outside with hand planes. (Note on image 1, ther is blue tabe to help with squeeze out. Bad idea, since that was INSIDE the tube, I could never get it all out.) (image 1) (image 2) (image 3) The base is simply 2 lengths of 2x4 with a half-lap joint. edge-wise, to form a cross. I cut notches is one end of the tube to fit over the base. (image 4) (image 5) (image 6) More to follow... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted May 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2015 Next, I glued up 2 slabs, one of 3/4 material, one of 6/4. These will eventually be the seat for the stool. Cleaned them up with a paint scraper, followed by a hand plane. (image 7) (image 8) (image 9) (image 10) Once the panels were smooth, I laid out a cirlce on each. The 6/4 piece makes a 12" circle, and the 3/4 piece is an 9" circle. These will be cut on the bandsaw later, and laminated to make a 9/4 thick round seat. Might sculpt it a bit, just for fun. ( image 11) To be continued ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted May 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2015 Now I needed some mechanism for engaging / disengaging the 'pawl' with the 'ratchet' that would be built into the 2x4 center post. What I decided on was a hinged "box" that wraps around the tube part of the center support, and has a peg to engage a series of shallow holes in the moving post. I thought that since this was a prototype on the fly project, joinery that could be broken down and reassembled over and over would help. I cut dovetails on the parts that for the end of the lever that pivots and holds the peg. The opposite end gets a handle. Sorry, the dovetails were hand cut in a hurry, pine is really soft, and they arer kinday loose... (image 14) (image 15) (image 16) Note that I had to remove the bottom half of the back piece to provide clearance for the pivot. (image 17) More to follow ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted May 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2015 Next, I had to create the peg that would engage the holes in the moveable center post. I began by drilling a 3/4" hole for the dowel through the back of the pivoting lever, and the tube, and into the upper-most adjustment point of the center post. In guess I forgot to mention, all the dowel stock is 3/4" stuff I had lying around. (image 18) (image 19) After the first hole was established in the center post, I marked a center line and use dividers to step off a row ov evenly spaced hole locations. Thers are about 1 3/8" on center. (image 20) A scrap of 2x4 clamped to the drill press table serves as a fence while I drill all these adjustment holes. I used a 3/4" forstner bit, and bored in about 1/8" deeper than the head of the bit. (image 21) Continued ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted May 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2015 Now I need a peg to engage the holes in the center post. I cut one from 3/4" dowel stock, and made it approximately 30 degrees angled on one end to allow clearance for pivoting in and out of the holes. Not shown in the picture, I also had to chamfer the point a bit to keep it from hanging on the upper edge of the holes. (image 22) Finally, I set up my little band saw and cut the curvy parts. (image 23) Here is a curve on the foot, just because all furniture should have curves. Right, Eric? (image 24) I used a scrap board and a screw as a jig to help true the circles up on the sander. Tried the same jig on the bandsaw for the inital cuts, but kept binding it op. Besides, the table on the bandsaw is so small there was almost no space to clamp it. (image 25) I was able to use a bamboo skewer through the center holes in the two circular slabs to align them for gluing. I started to use some barbell plates to clamp it, but figured my bench vise would do a much better job. (image 26) More ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted May 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2015 Now here are some views of the adjustment mechanism, assembled dry. I still need to be able to take it apart, but also need it to stay put during operation, so I drilled some joints and inserted bamboo pins to hold it together. First, an overview shot: ( image 27) Then a closeup of the engagement mechanism. Note that the U-shaped notch for the peg required some relief at the bottom to allow for the arc of pivoting. ( image 28 ) OK, that's all for now. Later this week, I hope to have the seat attached, some sort of finish applied, and be ready to take this prototype for a trial run. If it doesn't fail spectacularly, I will attempt to re-create it in hard wood. Might even disassemble it and make templates from all the non-trivial pieces. My plan (so far) for attaching the seat is to cut a through-mortice, and wedge the post tenon from the top. I'm open for suggested improvements! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted May 26, 2015 Report Share Posted May 26, 2015 Interesting idea! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted May 26, 2015 Report Share Posted May 26, 2015 I like it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted May 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2015 Now the seat can fit to the center post. Chopping the through mortise was a challenge, as there was a knot at one side. There is truth behind the phrase "tough as a oine knot!" I kerfed the tenon, and will use door shims as wedges. And here is the rough assembly. Almost down to roundovers and sanding before glue up. I am considering adding some gussets where the tube fits over the base. That joint seems a little sketchy for keeping my 200+ pounds upright. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted May 28, 2015 Report Share Posted May 28, 2015 Awesome, was this a thought up idea that you sketched out, or are you shooting from the hip and building as you get ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted May 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2015 No sketches, just building from imagination and inspiration. Already have some possible improvements in mind for version 2.0! I'm trying to see how far I can go with only wooden components. This design complies with that restriction, but I plan to use 2 screws at final assembly to allow the pawl mechanism to be removed if desired. Another improvement I'd like to make is a swivel seat, maybe with a back, and also a footrest for use with the seat extended. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted May 28, 2015 Report Share Posted May 28, 2015 Pretty cool! Creative too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted May 29, 2015 Report Share Posted May 29, 2015 No sketches, just building from imagination and inspiration. Already have some possible improvements in mind for version 2.0! I'm trying to see how far I can go with only wooden components. This design complies with that restriction, but I plan to use 2 screws at final assembly to allow the pawl mechanism to be removed if desired. Another improvement I'd like to make is a swivel seat, maybe with a back, and also a footrest for use with the seat extended. Ross.... I like that box that you work outside of! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted May 29, 2015 Report Share Posted May 29, 2015 I like it. Now could you put a lazy Susan between the two round pieces to make it swivel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted May 29, 2015 Report Share Posted May 29, 2015 Being bored, and needing a stool for my new stand-up computer workstation. I decided to try to design something that would fit my adjustability requirements, be relatively simple to build, and be made from nothing but wood and glue. Having a bunch of pine lumber and 2x4s on hand, I set to work. I took inspiration from the jack stands in my garage, and planned the adjustable mechanism to work on a ratchet & pawl of some sort. First I made a rectangular tube of 3/4" pine, and ripped down a 2x4 to act as the sliding center post. The tube is just long grain butt joints and glue. Once it was dry, I cleaned up the outside with hand planes. (Note on image 1, ther is blue tabe to help with squeeze out. Bad idea, since that was INSIDE the tube, I could never get it all out.) (image 1) (image 2) (image 3) The base is simply 2 lengths of 2x4 with a half-lap joint. edge-wise, to form a cross. I cut notches is one end of the tube to fit over the base. (image 4) (image 5) (image 6) More to follow... Ross.... I just went back and reread the start of this post! Now this is really outside the box thinking! You need a stool for your "stand up computer station" ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted May 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2015 Yeah Rick, I get back pains from working seated at a desk all day. I jacked up my workstation to standing height, and it really helped my back, but now my feet are killing me! This stool should let me take a load off now and then, but still work comfortably. One reason a did not include a seat back is that the stool, when fully lowered, will fit under the knee hole of my sit-down work table for storage, and be a good height for sitting at that table as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted May 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2015 I like it. Now could you put a lazy Susan between the two round pieces to make it swivel? Yeah, lazy susan bearing, or a similar type bearing found in the sporting goods section of most WalMart stotes, used for fishing boat seats. Can't add it to this seat, though, as the 2 disks are already glued together. I wanted the extra thickness for strength in the through mortise, since the support post is just a piece of SPF construction 2x4. Now that it is built, I think it is overkill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted May 30, 2015 Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 Ross, how's the project coming? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted May 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 Coop, it is slow. I work on it a few minutes each morning before work, but since the family is still asleep, I am limited to hand tools and the occasional tablesaw cut. All my other power tools are just to loud. Here is what I've been working on: Grooves to house the extra gussets for the base. Sorry, I thought I had more photos. With any luck, I will get the noisy router and sander work done this weekend, and get this thing assembled! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted May 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 Yay! Shop time to make noise and dust! Today I cut out the gussets for the base, then rounded all the edges, three different radii in all. Rounding the lower edge of the top section of the seat was tricky, but with the help if some hand screw clamps, I got 'er done. I sanded everything, 60-100-150 grit, with the ROS, to clean up pencil marks, remove minor dings, and prep for finish. This was big mistake #1. Forgetting how quickly material can be removed when sanding a soft wood like white pine, I took my mallet-tight lap joints to fall-apart loose. Oh, well. I suppose some reinforcement will be in order. I also had to deal with a gap around the gussets in their housing grooves. I expected some gap at the ends, because I was too lazy to account for how much the depth of each groove affected the length of the opposite side of the 90* joint. There was also some looseness around the sides from sanding. I took a photo to illustrate, but it appears to be missing. Anyway, I have a plan to turn one fubar into a feature, and deal with the little gaps using glue and sawdust. The stool is glued togethet at last, and tomorrow I hope to deal with the cosmetic stuff. I still have doubts about the joint between the base and center support tube, but tomorrow will tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 Nice progress!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FtrPilot Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 I like it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted May 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 No photos today, but I cleaned up all the glue squeeze-out and sanded the filler smooth. To a non-woodworker, it really isn't noticable, except for the tear out around the through mortice in the middle of the seat. I've seen worse every time I get dragged to Pottery Barn. Next go-round, I would not worry about the through mortise and wedges for the seat. Another case of overkill. I assembled the stool and sat on, it seems rock solid. Just for giggles, I applied iron oxide to every surface except for the movable seat post. Looks like rotten barnwood now, but should continue to darken for a few days, after which I will start applying a finish. If it looks too crappy, there is always paint! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinF Posted June 1, 2015 Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 Nice build! If the finish looks to bad you could buy an old metal tractor seat and put on it, people love new stuff that looks old! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted June 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2015 Well, here is what a day of "maturation" on the iron oxide, followed by a seal coat of shellac, looks like: Poop on a stick. If all the pine had been the same, maybe not SO bad. I might have put more effort into cleaning up the glue, too. For certain, this is a piece better executed in harder wood. A coat of amber shellac is drying now. My plan is to take it to work and use it for the rest of the week, then decide If I need to paint it this weekend. Or if it going to fall apart. Fully assembled photo in the morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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