wdwerker Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 Oak or maple. Might work better. Try spacing the holes a little farther apart too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted March 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 Definitely hard wood for V. 2.0! Thinking about a slightly stronger height adjustment pin style, too, but this will require a spring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 My local hardware store has a few plastic kits with a pretty good selection of springs. I took some parts and calipers with me to determine what would fit. They were cheap so I bought several strengths. Once I had the right one I stocked up on those. LED floodlight bulbs were too heavy for those swing arm architects lamps , new springs did the trick ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 Have you thought about puttting a metal sleeve in to each of the holes on the center post. Maybe something in brass so it looks nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted March 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 2 hours ago, Chet K. said: Have you thought about puttting a metal sleeve in to each of the holes on the center post. Maybe something in brass so it looks nice. Chet, that would certainly look very sharp. Cut rings from brass tubing, or even copper pipe. I may do an experimental repair on V. 1.0 to see how well it works. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 19, 2016 Report Share Posted March 19, 2016 Sleeving the holes is a great idea ! Copper pipe cuts very easily on woodworking blades. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted March 19, 2016 Report Share Posted March 19, 2016 And maybe have the hole deeper/pin longer so the weight is not just resting on an inch or so? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted March 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2016 And maybe have the hole deeper/pin longer so the weight is not just resting on an inch or so? That's a problem with the pivoting pin design I used. Too long, and the pin won't slip into the hole as it travels the arc. For V 2.0, I'm considering a pin on a slide mechanism that goes straight in and out, hence the spring to keep it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted September 9, 2016 Report Share Posted September 9, 2016 Any progress on this? Just found it, it is really interesting. By the way, extending the pin would only yield marginal returns, there comes a point where the stiffness of the pin and base material come into play and you will still be loading mostly at the edge of the hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted September 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2016 Any progress on this? Just found it, it is really interesting. By the way, extending the pin would only yield marginal returns, there comes a point where the stiffness of the pin and base material come into play and you will still be loading mostly at the edge of the hole. I haven't done anything with it. Still using the stool at work. I highly recommend some sort of spring in the mechanism to keep the pin engaged. I've nearly fallen a couple of times, due to the pin not being fully engaged when I sat down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeautysBeast Posted September 10, 2016 Report Share Posted September 10, 2016 Could you use a copper pipe cap inside the hole to give strength to the edges? No cutting required. One of these... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted September 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2016 Could you use a copper pipe cap inside the hole to give strength to the edges? No cutting required. One of these... Would probably work quite well. I think the problem with my protype is mostly from being constructed of cheap 2x4 material. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeautysBeast Posted September 10, 2016 Report Share Posted September 10, 2016 Ross, Your design was fantastic, I agree that the cheap construction grade pine is probably the issue. I have some nice 8/4 hard maple that has this written all over it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted September 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2016 Ross, Your design was fantastic, I agree that the cheap construction grade pine is probably the issue. I have some nice 8/4 hard maple that has this written all over it. Be sure to journal it! I want to see how someone else's version turns out. I have to many items on my "honey do" list before I can re-make the stool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeautysBeast Posted September 11, 2016 Report Share Posted September 11, 2016 On 9/10/2016 at 0:11 PM, wtnhighlander said: Be sure to journal it! I want to see how someone else's version turns out. I have to many items on my "honey do" list before I can re-make the stool! I have a whole house of furniture to build, including a bed, but I will certainly journal it while I build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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