Clowe Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 My husband and I recently stripped and restrained this dining room table. We use CitiStrip I think it's called to remove old stain, then sanded some. I have no idea what numbers we used sandpaper wise, We are NOT wood workers...this was our very first time trying. I feel the legs and table extensions took the new stain well, but the table top is blotchy and uneven. I have read so many forums and blogs my head hurts! I really want to fix this table, it has sentimental value. Can I just re sand and start again? Will re sanding cause the wood to just not take stain again? We did use a conditioner before applying the stain. I believe the wood is pine...but maybe not? It doesn't really have any knots...not sure if all pine does. Anyhow...could anyone offer advice in lay men's terms? Thanks so much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 It appears it's not blotch, just a poor strip job. On large jobs, folks tend to get impatient and rush the process. Start over and use a good chemical stripper (not the earth saving types) follow all the safety concerns using the product. The goal is to get everything down to the white wood (meaning like a new fresh piece of wood) Its gonna take time, but is a must if you desire good results. You may have to strip the piece up to 3 times. Remember, when you stop pulling color, your done. Once you done, wash everything down with mineral spirits. Let that dry, then you sand. -Ace- 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 ^^^that is some good advice. It also looks like you might have sanded against the grain. Always sand in the direction of the grain so that your scratch pattern is masked by the grain direct. In the case of your table, you should be sanding longways, rather than across the width of the table. I can't tell if your table is solid wood or veneered with a solid wood border. If it is veneered, you might have trouble getting the stain to penetrate the veneer, because they tend to be thin and the veneer pores clog up with the adhesive that holds the veneer onto the sub-surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clowe Posted June 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 The places that look like we sanded against the grain is actually places where I think we were digging to dip when we were scrapping off stain! Here is a picture of right before we applied stain if that helps. I do believe it is solid wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clowe Posted June 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 The stripper made the wood look wet like I think. It was hard for us to tell when we were removing stain and when we didn't have stain left to remove. Hence the digging too deep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 One you get down to the point in your photo. That's the critical time. It may look good, but in fact, the wood is still sealed off below the surface. You then apply a good wet coat of stripper and scrub with the grain using steel wool pulling more gunk from the woods pores. That unlocks the color and topcoat that is down and soaked in the wood. In fact, once the stripper has flashed off, I still go at it with steel wool following the grain, removing the dried finish. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clowe Posted June 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 After applying stripper and scraping it off, how long should I let it sit before deciding if it needs stripper applied again? Also, after using steel wool do I also need to sand? And if so what number grain? THANK YOU so much for taking the time to help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 I like to keep going while removing the heavy layers. Once you get to the wood, ummmm, you can take a break and let it dry. That is a good time to scrub the wood with the grain using the steel wool. Then get back on it. think of it like staining. You keep going till your done. I would sand starting with 100 then 120 then 150. However, since your top has damage from the scraper, you may want to spend time with the 100 to get everything flat and smooth. Good luck!! -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clowe Posted June 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 So that might have been another mistake. I don't have to wait hours to let stain dry before applying another coat? Lol. Thanks again for the help! I will post another picture after attempt two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clowe Posted June 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 Sorry to be such a bother. One more thing I meant to ask. Do I need to let conditioner dry before applying stain? Or can I literally apply conditioner then right away apply stain? Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 Sorry to be such a bother. One more thing I meant to ask. Do I need to let conditioner dry before applying stain? Or can I literally apply conditioner then right away apply stain? Thanks again! I think you need to let it dry. The can says 30 minutes, I think, but you can let it dry a little longer. conditioner is just a thin sealer that partially seals the wood. The conditioner makes it so the stain penetrates more evenly. If it is still wet, the stain will just mix with the conditioner and it will not be as effective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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