EdG Posted June 12, 2015 Report Share Posted June 12, 2015 I am getting ready to apply finish to my cherry coffee table build. I am thinking of applying GF Arm-R-Seal oil & urethane satin over a first coat of BLO. I like using a first coat of BLO on cherry followed by Waterlox as it helps the cherry pop. I thought I'd use a urethane on the coffee table to help with protection. My question is will using GF A-R-S over BLO cause a problem. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted June 12, 2015 Report Share Posted June 12, 2015 I've used ARS over blo quite a few times. The only problem I've ever had was when I rushed it. The blo needs to be Allowed to fully dry before putting something over it. What is your plan to control botching on the cherry? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted June 12, 2015 Report Share Posted June 12, 2015 I like using a first coat of BLO on cherry followed by Waterlox as it helps the cherry pop blotch. FTFY BLO definitely brings out the warm, earthy goodness in cherry and walnut. But it does tend to make cherry blotch. I'm partial to that look with cherry but a lot of people hate it and want a more uniform color. If that's you then run away from BLO and start with a coat or two of shellac instead. However, I find that straight ARS basically does the same thing as BLO and gives it that earthy look. I personally think it's a waste of time to do the BLO first. But no, it's fine to put an ARS top coat over BLO as long as you do what Brendon says and give it plenty of time to dry. I'd give it a week minimum. BLO can take months to fully cure if you're heavy-handed with it. I've gotten to the point where I don't use BLO at all unless I'm doing a finish of only BLO. Which I do occasionally on pieces that require little to no protection. Frankly I like the look of that finish better than anything else...but it's no good for a piece that will see any use at all. So ARS is a close second that offers some protection. Don't see the need to do both. Pick one or the other. I can see the benefit of using it under a water-based finish since the water-based does just about nothing to bring out the richness of wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted June 12, 2015 Report Share Posted June 12, 2015 Just use ARS all the way through. If you must use BLO, as said above, MAKE SURE ITS DRY. A week or maybe longer. If you don't, the BLO will gass off as it's trying to dry up through the ARS, causing issues. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted June 12, 2015 Report Share Posted June 12, 2015 +1 to ARS all the way through Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted June 12, 2015 Report Share Posted June 12, 2015 I have used minwax wipe on poly for cherry with great results. Check out my journals on the coffee table and entertainment unit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdG Posted June 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2015 My plan was to apply a wash coat of bulls eye sanding sealer shellac (cut 1 to 3 parts alcohol) to help combat botching. Based on feedback here I'll go ahead and work up a sample with and without BLO and see if there is any difference. I really appreciate the feedback and will report back on how the samples work out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Hein Posted June 19, 2015 Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 I used ARS for my kitchen table and am already seeing scratches in the finish even though I don't think it's been abused. Has anyone else had an issue such as this? I was going to see if Behlens rock-hard tabletop finish was compatible and refinish the top. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted June 19, 2015 Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 If you use a table, it's gonna get scratched. That's life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 19, 2015 Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 Eric is correct. Tables scratch. A duller sheen won't show scratches as much and remember it does take most finishes, including poly, a couple weeks or more to fully cure. Also, you can rub out surface scratches with a 1000 grit abralon pad, assuming you built enough film. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ResidentEvil Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 FWIW, I used Arm-R-Seal semi-gloss to finish a Cherry entry way table and it turned out fantastic. Had thoughts of using Danish oil underneath, but now I'm glad I didn't. The ARS gives it a nice warm tone without the need for oil underneath. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdG Posted June 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 Andrew, how many coats of GF did you use on the entry way table? I was thinking of using GF satin and putting down 3 coats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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