Stobes21 Posted June 18, 2015 Report Share Posted June 18, 2015 If they are selling it as hard maple it probably is. But for something like this even soft maple should work fine. Telling the difference between the two at the lumber yard is difficult. Keep in mind "soft" maple is only soft relative to hard maple. It's still a very hard wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weithman5 Posted June 18, 2015 Report Share Posted June 18, 2015 remember there is a difference between absolute and relative humidity. the moisture in the air at 10 percent relative humidity at 100 degrees, will be more than the absolute moisture in the air at 10 percent humidity and 60 degrees. fundamentally, i doubt you even notice it with this project Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gigster Posted June 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2015 Jumped in the deep end, lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted June 18, 2015 Report Share Posted June 18, 2015 Nice stack. Not sure when your brother is coming out but if it's not very soon, make sure you have those boards stickered and off the ground Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gigster Posted June 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2015 Nice stack. Not sure when your brother is coming out but if it's not very soon, make sure you have those boards stickered and off the groundThanks. We will be slicing and dicing day after tomorrow. What does it mean to sticker the wood? Can it sit flat on my cement porch that's covered? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted June 18, 2015 Report Share Posted June 18, 2015 Stickered means to stack it in rows with 1" or so sticks every 18" or so that air can properly circulate around the board. I personally would not leave it down on concrete. Concrete has the tenancy to wick up moisture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gigster Posted June 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2015 Stickered means to stack it in rows with 1" or so sticks every 18" or so that air can properly circulate around the board. I personally would not leave it down on concrete. Concrete has the tenancy to wick up moisture. Got it. It's off the cement. Should it be ok supported in three places in the middle, about 3 feet apart until Saturday morning.? I threw some shade cloth over it although it only would get afternoon sun for an hour or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gigster Posted June 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 Well, we got a pretty good start on the table this weekend. Saturday we took a fair bit of time figuring everything out, getting a decent kerf blade, and doing some rough chops of the stock. Yesterday a little more tangible progress, ripping up and planing smooth the 1" stacks for the backsplash/cove. We are T&Ging them and we got as far as glueing up the top portion of the rear backsplash. My brother left the equipment to come up and hopefully finish next weekend. Now to see what progress I might make on my own this week. I am not totally confident enough to risk this 'spensive wood on my low skill level. Will proceed with extreme caution! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted June 22, 2015 Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 It's looking good. Not that it matters at this point because you've already done it...but that tongue and groove was a complete waste of your time. A long grain to long grain glue joint is stronger than the wood itself and needs no mechanical reinforcement. But what's done is done...it'll help with alignment when you glue up if nothing else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gigster Posted June 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 It's looking good. Not that it matters at this point because you've already done it...but that tongue and groove was a complete waste of your time. A long grain to long grain glue joint is stronger than the wood itself and needs no mechanical reinforcement. But what's done is done...it'll help with alignment when you glue up if nothing else. Thanks. And yup, that's mostly why we did it . . . to help the glue job. Also I think it will look kinda cool on the forward edges of the side splashes. But then I'm easily impressed. For the same reason my brother is suggesting we domino the 1 3/4" slats for the body of the table top with the Festool. Whaddaya think? I'm imagining three or four dominoes spaced apart between each 34.5" length of square 1 3/4". (Maybe three would be plenty?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gigster Posted June 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 Oh no. I first glued up the 21 slats in four sections. That's how they are now. When I mated the four sections to check the joints (before glueing the 4 sections together) I noticed a bend had developed in one of the sections and I could not completely close the .030"-.045" gaps on the ends with clamping. It's already better overnight. I have a humidifier going on low and every so often I tweak the clamps a little and it closes a little more. Over time, will it close completely and be as tight as the rest of the table? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 30, 2015 Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 No. even if you successfully clamp it closed, it will likely re-open with time. A better solution is to rejoint the edge and then glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gigster Posted June 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 Thanks, that's what I will do. We have a festool tracksaw that should do the job. I have to put this project to bed for two weeks of work-related travel. Should I just clamp it up so it doesn't become a runaway train while I am away? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted June 30, 2015 Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 Any time you attempt to force gaps closed with pressure and manipulation, you are working against the wood and opening yourself up for joint failure down the road. Clamping the slats in sub assembles was a good idea, now take the same principals to the larger "slats". Joint the edges to a true flat length and 90* to the face then glue up. Set yourself up for long term success, not short term time savings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gigster Posted June 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 Got it. That is the new plan then. Any need to clamp them together for stable storage while I am away for two weeks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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