byegge Posted June 17, 2015 Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 Hello everyone, I would like to thank you all in advance for any information you can give me on my project. I'm very new to woodworking and don't have too much experience with finish and with wood movement. I'm building a card box for a friend's wedding and need to know a good way to finish it that will prevent the wood moving too much after it leaves my very hot and humid shop in Florida. The box will live in an air conditioned house after I'm done. I'm using walnut and cherry for my materials and would prefer a natural looking finish. No stain or dyes will be used, but maybe an oil to bring out the warmth of the wood. Thanks again Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stobes21 Posted June 17, 2015 Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 No finish will stop wood movement. If your joinery and design is solid and your wood was properly dried you should be ok. For a natural looking finish an oil would seem to be a good choice. Just make sure the inside of the box can fully cure before you put the lid on or it'll smell like oil for years. If you are time constrained then shellac or lacquer will dry a lot faster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 17, 2015 Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 If you are looking for a finish that will stop, or aignificatly reduce, wood movement, you are out of luck. Such a thing does not exist. You need to build the box to deall with movement, then apply any finish that you think will look good. For small decorative items I like clear lacquer. you can get it in an aerosol can. Just read the instructions to make sure it will dry correctly in your environment. My guess is it will be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
byegge Posted June 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 Thanks for the replys, my concern stems from an issue I had a few months ago when I got some maple from woodcraft. I took it straight from the store and Re sawed it the same day. The next afternoon it was badly cupped. I know everyone says to let wood acclimate to your shop, but won't it un acclimate once back in a dry humid free environment. Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted June 17, 2015 Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 I’m not suggesting this for the OP, but it’s a question for the woodies in our studio audience – how about vacuum-resin impregnation? Or what about a torrefied finish? I don’t know, but suspect someone else might... As for the OP -- your screwed... You must wait for the stock to acclimatize – full stop. By removing material, you’ve changed the dynamics – it’s not the same stick that started-out flat... Sure, the stock may move back with lower humidity, but it won’t move back so that it’s flat... Sorry... Wait until the stock is acclimatized – if there is enough thickness to resurface, great... If not, well you’ll know for next time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 17, 2015 Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 I’m not suggesting this for the OP, but it’s a question for the woodies in our studio audience – how about vacuum-resin impregnation? Or what about a torrefied finish? I don’t know, but suspect someone else might... As for the OP -- your screwed... You must wait for the stock to acclimatize – full stop. By removing material, you’ve changed the dynamics – it’s not the same stick that started-out flat... Sure, the stock may move back with lower humidity, but it won’t move back so that it’s flat... Sorry... Wait until the stock is acclimatized – if there is enough thickness to resurface, great... If not, well you’ll know for next time... And even if you acclimatize, the board might still go pear-shaped after you resaw it. Just the way it is! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted June 17, 2015 Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 I had to go look up vacuum impregnation. Seems it's mostly used for metal parts. Found a video on using it on wood. It's not simple or quick and probably isn't cheap either, but I was fascinated ! https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vQxtHxfqbeQ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted June 17, 2015 Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 Why not keep the wood in the house when not working with it. For the short while it's in the shop, work it, then bring it back into the house. I would use shellac as a finish, plus this will help to seal the wood. And yes a film finish will really help to "minimize" wood movement. Don't forget to finish all surfaces of the wood, inside/outside/endgrain. -Ace- 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 17, 2015 Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 Why not keep the wood in the house when not working with it. For the short while it's in the shop, work it, then bring it back into the house. I would use shellac as a finish, plus this will help to seal the wood. And yes a film finish will really help to "minimize" wood movement. Don't forget to finish all surfaces of the wood, inside/outside/endgrain. -Ace- Agree to make sure and seal all surfaces. But wood moves. Finishing will help deal with temporary changes in humidity, but any prolonged swing and the the wood is going to move, finish or no finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted June 17, 2015 Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 Shellac or spray can lacquer will help minimize changes in moisture content. Finish every surface inside and out. Keeping the wood in your house to acclimate and only taking it to the shop to work is a good idea when your working in such a humid area. I routinely buy wood several days to weeks ahead of starting a project. I cut parts oversized and sticker them over nite at a minimum ,then joint /plane and saw to size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted June 17, 2015 Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 Thanks for the replys, my concern stems from an issue I had a few months ago when I got some maple from woodcraft. I took it straight from the store and Re sawed it the same day. The next afternoon it was badly cupped. I know everyone says to let wood acclimate to your shop, but won't it un acclimate once back in a dry humid free environment. Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk By the way you explain it, it sounds like you re-sawed and the board was flat but cupped later. Did you lay it directly on the bench over night? If so, that may explain the cupping. It is best if you can sticker the lumber while it is acclimating. On the other hand, some boards cup when resawn for all kinds of reasons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted June 17, 2015 Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 ==>vacuum impregnation I’ve got a nice little bird knife with resin-impregnated Maple Burl scales -- finish makes the wood as tough as stone... Also got a set of chisels with torrefied handles – they are stable and tough – been tempted to try it in the shop. Of course, you could go contrarian: positive pressure acrylic infusion – I’ve got some chisel handles and a bench mallet or two that are infused – actually, I’ve been tempted to build a small box or two with infused stock just see how it handles – never found the time... None of this helps the OP, but only time will help... ==>re-sawed and the board was flat but cupped later. Resawing releases internal stresses... You need straight-grained well-behaved and acclimated stock to resaw successfully... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
byegge Posted June 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 Yea the boards were left on the bench over night. Chalk it up to learning experience Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
byegge Posted June 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 I've got until December to finish this, which leaves me plenty of time to work out the kinks. Thanks to everyone who posted Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted June 17, 2015 Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 Yea the boards were left on the bench over night. Chalk it up to learning experience Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk After you re-saw. Clamp the boards using cauls back to back with the fresh cut face pointing outwards. After the wood has become acclimated, milled etc. While your not working on the project. Store the wood in large plastic garbage bags until assembly. This will help to keep the wood acclimated and limit movement. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted June 17, 2015 Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 After you re-saw. Clamp the boards using cauls back to back with the fresh cut face pointing outwards. -Ace- Interesting. I've never thought of doing something like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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