bushwacked Posted June 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 Well at the moment my plan is .... Store the CT 36 when not in use in that spot. Then drag it out when I need it. I was going to get a cheap rigid shop vac and hook up to my dewalt miter saw. The rigid is going in the cubby just to the right of the mister saw. I do like your idea on the midi when I get the kapex to save money Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Brown Posted June 28, 2015 Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 Looks good. I like the saw in the middle. I put mine on the right because I'm more comfortable reading the left side of the blade and I wanted to leave room for long cuts,but I think I could have left a bit more room on th right. I also purposely left th cabinets open. You asked about dust removal. I've attached a pic of how I addressed this. It has an extra port midpoint for other dust collection tasks. Hope it helps. Also,notice the power strip under the drawers. Big help. PS my shop is very much a work in progress right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted June 28, 2015 Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 ==>think I could have left a bit more room on th right. Yea.. Maybe one too many cabinets over... ==>notice the power strip under the drawers. Big help. Excellent catch... I did that and it's a big help... ==>PS my shop is very much a work in progress right now. How about moving the bandsaw to the left of the cabinets and raise it a couple of inches? That 8' outfeed would be great for resawing... Just a thought... And while you're at it -- those pine walls are way too nice for a shop... I'll send you a shipping address and take care of of it... .. But, you may want to white wash them at some point to get more reflected light in the shop... My dad did that on his pine shop and it looked great... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Brown Posted June 28, 2015 Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 ==>PS my shop is very much a work in progress right now. How about moving the bandsaw to the left of the cabinets and raise it a couple of inches? That 8' outfeed would be great for resawing... Just a thought... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted June 28, 2015 Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 Had one of those central feeds... More trouble than it’s worth... Got rid of it... Now use overhead whips. I mix NEMA L5 and L6 female turn-lock drops: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/807/=xtldme on a couple of rows about every 6’. I useed yellow SEOOW cable (overkill): http://www.mcmaster.com/#seoow-cords/=xtliaw It’s all kind of overkill, but my local inspector insisted on turn-lock connections... At the end of the day, it’s a little more money, but works extremely well... The only place where I don't do this is for the high-amp kit that requires a local disconnect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Brown Posted June 28, 2015 Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 Now use overhead whips. I mix NEMA L5 and L6 female turn-lock drops: I have locking couplers, but what is the overhead whip you're referring to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted June 28, 2015 Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 Power whip... Don’t really know any other term – some call them pigtails... Here’s a link to pre-made – you could save a bunch over making your own... http://www.lockingpowercords.com/products/682-l21-30-power-cord-whips.aspx There are a bunch of ways to do this... Some better than others... Some cost more than others... Maybe a pro will chime in here... I run a couple of 115 and 220 branches to a matrix of single-gang boxes. I color-code the boxes by branch -- mark breaker with color. I suspend the whip from the box with a strain relief to about 8’... Want power? Reach-up and plug-in... Point is, no cords on the ground... I’ve got very few safety rules in the shop... Number one, unplug tool when changing blades... Number two, no cords on the floor... Sorry, we're rather off-topic... But it's still a shop-type question... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted June 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 TripH ... Just curious do you have a pic or 2 of your wiring in the shop? I think I'm following what you are talking about but not sure how it's executed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted June 28, 2015 Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 I’ll look in my LR catalog... If not, it’ll be at end of summer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted June 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 I’ll look in my LR catalog... If not, it’ll be at end of summer. Perfect I'd greatly appreciate it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socoj2 Posted July 2, 2015 Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 Power whip... Don’t really know any other term – some call them pigtails... Here’s a link to pre-made – you could save a bunch over making your own... http://www.lockingpowercords.com/products/682-l21-30-power-cord-whips.aspx There are a bunch of ways to do this... Some better than others... Some cost more than others... Maybe a pro will chime in here... I run a couple of 115 and 220 branches to a matrix of single-gang boxes. I color-code the boxes by branch -- mark breaker with color. I suspend the whip from the box with a strain relief to about 8’... Want power? Reach-up and plug-in... Point is, no cords on the ground... I’ve got very few safety rules in the shop... Number one, unplug tool when changing blades... Number two, no cords on the floor... Sorry, we're rather off-topic... But it's still a shop-type question... always check the Home depot cable isle for cut SOOW cable, you can get it for half off sometimes. i got a 40 foot run of 8/3 SOOW cable for like $20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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